New to Airbrushing!

[Tweezers]

There are several books on this topic and I bought one to get started in the 1980s.  It helped with my external mix airbrush and I learn't a great deal.  Now I have a no-name chinese airbrush that came in a package with compressor.  I could never have afforded this as a teenager.  Experiment and enjoy!

 

Humbrol sell a bottle of thinners for their enamels 125ml for £4.49

[peebeep]

A compressor with reservoir and moisture trap/regulator is optimum. If you do an ebay search for an AS186 compressor you'll get lots of hits with sellers throwing in one or two airbrushes plus accessories for under £80. This is ideal for getting started. I would suggest you select a deal that offers a top cup, gravity feed airbrush. These work more reliably than syphonic feeds, are economical with paint and are easy to clean - in my experience. Once you've mastered the basics with the freebie you'll probably start thinking about graduating to a better quality airbrush, but that's something to worry about later. Rule of thumb for paint thinning is getting it down to the consistency of milk. Rule of thumb for air pressure is reducing until the paint sputters, then increasing just enough to smooth out the flow. Low pressures are best for reducing overspray and are a necessity if you want to indulge in fine line work. I was a diehard enamel person, but modelling friends whose opinions I respect were all urging to have a go with lacquer/spirit based acrylics and I now have a ton of enamel tinlets gathering dust under the workbench.

[Kidge]

A compressor with reservoir and moisture trap/regulator is optimum. If you do an ebay search for an AS186 compressor you'll get lots of hits with sellers throwing in one or two airbrushes plus accessories for under £80. This is ideal for getting started. I would suggest you select a deal that offers a top cup, gravity feed airbrush. These work more reliably than syphonic feeds, are economical with paint and are easy to clean - in my experience. Once you've mastered the basics with the freebie you'll probably start thinking about graduating to a better quality airbrush, but that's something to worry about later. Rule of thumb for paint thinning is getting it down to the consistency of milk. Rule of thumb for air pressure is reducing until the paint sputters, then increasing just enough to smooth out the flow. Low pressures are best for reducing overspray and are a necessity if you want to indulge in fine line work. I was a diehard enamel person, but modelling friends whose opinions I respect were all urging to have a go with lacquer/spirit based acrylics and I now have a ton of enamel tinlets gathering dust under the workbench.

Paul thanks a lot. Ive had a quick look on ebay and it seems like a good bet, really helpful. Are the Tamiya arcrylics suitable paints? Not to sure how to find spirit based arylics.

Thakns again...Will

[peebeep]

Tamiya acrylics are very good paints for airbrushing, they are spirit based whilst remaining miscible with water. Thin with cellulose thinner or GS levelling thinner for best results.

[Kidge]

Tamiya acrylics are very good paints for airbrushing, they are spirit based whilst remaining miscible with water. Thin with cellulose thinner or GS levelling thinner for best results.

Perfect thanks for your help! 😀

[Sparrow2]

Right...after some time getting back into the hobby after 6 monhts or so out, the time has come, to finally bite the bullet and begin the adventure into the world of airbrushing!

I have a couple of questions for anyone with expertise in this area and i guess there are a few of you out there!

Firstly, I know that in terms of a compressor, i can get something for around about £80 which has a tank, moisture trap filter and adjustable pressure. Is this a decent start point for someone who wants to "test the water"so to speak without spending hundreds?

Also which airbrush (or brushes) are decent to get going with. Dual action i suppose but not iwata or badger. Are there any decent cheaper options on ebay or copies available? From some youtube videos this seems like it is possible.

Finally, will my trusty humbrol enamels and arcylics work fine when thinned (and what ratio would that be to) or will i have to invest in some vallejo paints or any other airbrush-able paints?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks...Kidge

[Sparrow2]

Hi, I am new to airbrushing.

I tried to spray Humbrol acrylic yesterday evening but the paint has come out very speckled and too thick in certain areas.  I thinned the paint with similar amount of thinners and sprayed at about 22psi.

Can someone provide me with some guidance.

 

Thanks,

[peebeep]

Rules of thumb for airbrushing:

• Thin the paint to the consistency of milk.
• Reduce spraying pressure as low as possible. Turn the regulator down until the paint sputters at the tip then up just enough to smooth out the flow to get the lowest pressure. With well thinned paint this should be in the range 10-15 psi.

Tips:

• With double action airbrushes press for air before pulling back for paint.
• Keep the airbrush in constant motion.
• For good coverage use a mist coat initially and then gradually build up density.
• The more you practice the better you will get.

[Padefc]

Sorry to bore your lads n lasses but am about to dip me to into a airbrush an compresser prob of evil bay a switzer as180 I think but have a few questions any help would be greatly aprheciated

1 if I want use for for eg a1-72 scale plane is it practical  as some may need 5/6/7 coats or can you mix so little as to do 1 coat every 6 hrs or so or can you layer quicker as it's a finer coat 

2 do they use more or less paint than brushing as a genral rule only for me stock reasons I ask

3 are they easy to clean an maintain as this will be located in me loft 

4 can you use all paint types acrylic gloss mettalic etc 

5 is there any huge downside to them 

6 are the fumes any worse than normal 

 

[Ratch]

Pad, I don't really get your first question. If the airbrush has a gravity feed cup you can add the smallest quantity of paint to spray.

Question 2 see above

3 once you get used to it, it can be cleaned in minutes

4 yes you can spray any viscous liquid

5 best to spray in a well ventilated area

6 .worse than what? It depends on whether you're spraying enamels, laquers or acrylics

[peebeep]

A fellow branch member gave me a good tip, invest in some tattooist's ink pots. They are very small in capacity and you can get a couple of hundred off ebay for a couple of quid. You can mix/thin very small amounts of paint in them and then tip it straight into a gravity feed airbrush paint cup. Very little goes to waste. Depending on what paint you're using it's quite feasible to use mist coats to gradually build up layers of paint until you reach the required colour density. this can be done in one continuous session of one colour. There's nothing to stop you doing individual layers, letting it set, then re-coating if that's how you're prefer to work. Airbrushing uses very thin layers of paint compared to brushing, plus you're thinning the paint to work with it (usually), but to be honest I've never done back to back models one brushed the other airbrushed to compare. Gravity feed airbrushes are a doddle to clean, periodically you may need to strip down and do a thorough de-coke. With regard to odour, an airbrush is essentially a high tech atomiser so there is potential for causing a whiff in the household depending on the media you are using, also be aware that some media contains some pretty nasty stuff so always work in a well ventilated space. 

[Padefc]

Pad, I don't really get your first question. If the airbrush has a gravity feed cup you can add the smallest quantity of paint to spray.

Question 2 see above

3 once you get used to it, it can be cleaned in minutes

4 yes you can spray any viscous liquid

5 best to spray in a well ventilated area

6 .worse than what? It depends on whether you're spraying enamels, laquers or acrylics

Hi ratch thanks for taking time to answer I'm aware this subject comes around a lot!

my no1 was not worded the best tbh I was trying to ask do you have to mix a large amount of paint for a single coat on a small scale tool and do a single coat at a time as like brushing or because it's a finer coat can it be layered of faster using the same mix 

me no2 was more of a genral question I have maybe 50-80 tins of humbrol paints mostly 3/4 full when brushing a pot will last a good while and do afew models does airbrushing use generally more per model should I start doubling up on popular colours as at the min I only replace when virtual empty 

an 6 again not me best worded questions I've been moved to the attic for me hobbys by the wife I was previously in the back room or kitchen an when mixing with thinner or white spirt there can be a fair old odour causing a few exchanged word with the boss so was wondering is airbrushing more noticeable an carry all over the house or is it just the same old smell 

[Padefc]

A fellow branch member gave me a good tip, invest in some tattooist's ink pots. They are very small in capacity and you can get a couple of hundred off ebay for a couple of quid. You can mix/thin very small amounts of paint in them and then tip it straight into a gravity feed airbrush paint cup. Very little goes to waste. Depending on what paint you're using it's quite feasible to use mist coats to gradually build up layers of paint until you reach the required colour density. this can be done in one continuous session of one colour. There's nothing to stop you doing individual layers, letting it set, then re-coating if that's how you're prefer to work. Airbrushing uses very thin layers of paint compared to brushing, plus you're thinning the paint to work with it (usually), but to be honest I've never done back to back models one brushed the other airbrushed to compare. Gravity feed airbrushes are a doddle to clean, periodically you may need to strip down and do a thorough de-coke. With regard to odour, an airbrush is essentially a high tech atomiser so there is potential for causing a whiff in the household depending on the media you are using, also be aware that some media contains some pretty nasty stuff so always work in a well ventilated space. 

Brilliant Paul thanks for that very helpful I'll hit eBay for mini pots 

[Ratch]

Personally, I never (or hardly ever) mix colours. There are enough available to buy one that can be used straight from the tin. When I thin, I don't thin to a ratio - I look for consistency. Experience tells me that not every colour in every brand require the same ratio, so I mix to the consistency that will brush or airbrush well. To that end, Vallejo paints rarely need mixing and that is one reason I prefer them.

[NewbyAir]

I've modelled on and off for many years, using brushes and generally Humbrol Enamels to paint my models. Recenlty I puchased an airbrush (gravity feed) as far as is possible using Humbrol Acrylics. I thin these with Vallejo Airbrush thinner. As my 'first' airbrush painted kit, I've sprayed a Spitfire Mk1 with Paints 29 & 30 for camoflage and then after a couple of thin coats used the Humbrol Acrylic gloss varnish 35 (spray can). As I was spraying areas of the brown (29) on the wings bubbled up (as if paint stripper had been used on a oil based paint). As the gloss varnish dired the bubbling reduced but still left a uneven finish. This 'effect' did not ocur on the fuselage or the green (29 or on the underside (90).Grateful for any thoughts on why this unwanted 'effect' occured and what I can do to avoid this happening on my next build (I have a few to do!)Thanks 

[peebeep]

It's difficult to say what the problem might be, although it's certainly the case that aerosols very often contain a hot solvent, even with acrylic media. Coincidentally I saw a post elsewhere the other day by the person who manufactures and distributes Colour Coats paint. He made the point that pigments in paint all have different chemical composition, according to what the colour is. It may be that the dark earth pigment reacted to solvent in the spray, whereas the green was OK. That is purely supposition, so don't take it as gospel. I still have a good supply of old formula Johnson's Klear and because it's mostly inert when painted over other media I use it as a barrier/protective coat before applying other finishes. Of course, if you wish you can use it for finishing coats. Used with Tamiya Flat Base you can get a full range of effects from full gloss to dead matt. But that's just my way of doing things, you need to develop your own tried and tested techniques to get reliable finishes. You might consider using the airbrush for varnish coatings, you're in far better control of the way the varnish goes down compared to an aerosol. Whatever you do, it's best to develop your own system and once you find something that works consistently, stick with it. 

[NewbyAir]

It's difficult to say what the problem might be, although it's certainly the case that aerosols very often contain a hot solvent, even with acrylic media. Coincidentally I saw a post elsewhere the other day by the person who manufactures and distributes Colour Coats paint. He made the point that pigments in paint all have different chemical composition, according to what the colour is. It may be that the dark earth pigment reacted to solvent in the spray, whereas the green was OK. That is purely supposition, so don't take it as gospel. I still have a good supply of old formula Johnson's Klear and because it's mostly inert when painted over other media I use it as a barrier/protective coat before applying other finishes. Of course, if you wish you can use it for finishing coats. Used with Tamiya Flat Base you can get a full range of effects from full gloss to dead matt. But that's just my way of doing things, you need to develop your own tried and tested techniques to get reliable finishes. You might consider using the airbrush for varnish coatings, you're in far better control of the way the varnish goes down compared to an aerosol. Whatever you do, it's best to develop your own system and once you find something that works consistently, stick with it. 

Thank you Paul very helpful and much appreciated. 

[Kidge]

Ok, so I have done many hours of research into starting to use an airbrush, and feel that I know enough to get hold of what I need. However I would just like to confirm a few things.

1. Sparmax Max-4 Airbrush, £55 depending where you can find it, is it a good choice to begin with?

2. Now this is what i need most guidance on, in terms of a compressor...One with a tank can be found on a certain rainforest themed website (im not sure if im allowed to say it here) for £79, one without can be found on the same website for £58. Now i have seen many videos and heard from many people that a tank is well worth the extra money but on the contary i have heard many people say that a compressor without a tank can last years and is perfectly good enough for a starter. Any veiws?

3. I have roughly 25 pots of humbrol paints, half acrylic and half enamel roughly. Realistically can any of these be sprayed? My local model shop stocks Tamiya acrylics and vallejo paints so i will probably have to convert to either of those, probably whatever is cheaper lol. I might have to sell off a job lot on Evil Bay.

Hope everyone is doing well in Lockdown...plenty of time to build models!

Thanks, Will

[Ratch]

Hi Will, I've not seen Sparmax airbrushes, but I have one of their compressors. It has a tank and I'll always recommend you get one with a tank. Not having a tank can result in pulsing; the tank smoothes this out. As for paint, you'll have to try it. I use Humbrol and Vallejo predominantly. I use Vallejo Model Air for spraying and Humbrol for brush painting, but that's my preference. I know some other modellers are happy to spray with Humbrol. I prefer Vallejo because they don't need thinning. As I always say - try it out. Keep an open mind and see what works for you.

[Kidge]

Hi Will, 

Ratch Thank you for the info, I dont know quite yet whether to spray humbrol enamels as i have heard a number of horror stories (part of me is tempted though as I have so many.) I thinka as well I will go with a tank.

Thanks again...

[Ratch]

I'd advise you to experiment on some scrap plastic, or an old kit first. Enamels will almost certainly need thinning. Don't think fixed ratios - look for consistency. When the paint runs like milk it should be good for spraying. Don't try to thin the whole tin - decant some of the paint into a cup and add thinner gradually, until you get the right consistency. Good luck and have fun.

[Kidge]

Ok i think ill have a go. One final thing, do you recomend any airbrushes specifically to start with, i have been recommended the Sparmax max-4 as it doesn't break the bank and is supposedly a great start, just wondering if you had any veiws.

[peebeep]

For the money it looks like a decent bit of kit.

[Kidge]

For the money it looks like a decent bit of kit.

Thanks Paul.

[Kidge]

Sorry for the bombardment of questions but i am a nervous and careful buyer...

Do you guys also spray with a mask?

And do you spray indoors? (Just need to know how much ventilation I will need.)

Thanks, will.