Manual uncoupling - any ideas?

[keithp1707821843]

Hi Folks,

My first test layout is finished now. It is a simple siding, with the inglebrook puzzle included. There are a few issues - points manly and lack of power, but one fairly major issue is around the uncoupling of the wagons. 

Does anyone have any ideas on how to achieve this - I have tried the bent paper clip, but that is not brilliant. I am not sure how the hornby uncoupler would work in a sidings layout, so any other ideas please?

Thanks.

Keith

[LCDR]

 

 

 

You may find the answer here

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/uncoupling/  

 

This is what I use but because it is made of aluminium it is no good for DCC.

 

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[keithp1707821843]

Thanks. I did read that first and have tried a version of a 'spatula', but is still is not brilliant, it either pulls the wagons off the track or fails to unhook at all. It maybe I have not got the knack for manual uncoulpling, or perhaps I am dong it completely wrong.

You did stick the spatula in underneath and try to lift the hooks - right? How does the hornby one work? Seems as if you drive over a 'hump'.

[Chrissaf]

Keith, Not the first time that this question has been asked. This previous post below gives a multitude of ideas for easily making your own uncoupler both easily and cheaply. My own version made from a glue mixing spatula is also shown on this page (4th post down).

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https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/uncoupling/#post-233128

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EDIT: Note that I have just noticed that this is same previous thread as linked to in LCs reply above.

[LCDR]

There are of course further solutions.

 

The R617 spring loaded uncoupling ramp placed on a piece of straight track exploits the tension lock couplings which when being pulled are 'in tension' and therefore remains locked coupled, but as soon as the tension is released and the wagons are pushed gently together (in theory at least) the hooks disengage and if the locomotive then pulls forward again will uncouple.

 

The R8244 remote uncoupler uses the same principle but if attached to a flush mounted point motor can be made to raise and lower remotely. This will over-ride the uncouple action if not needed.

 

The main drawback is that it has to be installed where a normal straight track piece would go.

[pendeenpete]

My homemade uncoupler comprises of the handle from a disposable razor and some thin plastic, it works well. You need to make a flattened L shape, the "heel" of the handle pivots on the baseboard and the plastic lifts the coupler tails.

[walkingthedog]

Here's my home made version.

 

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[Chrissaf]

..maybe I have not got the knack for manual uncoulpling, or perhaps I am dong it completely wrong.

.

The knack is to first push the wagons together to release the tension between the hook and the loop. Then you can use the spatula to lift the hooks. The Tension Lock couplings are designed as the name suggests to 'Lock' together when in 'Tension'.

.

This is why you can haul a rake of wagons over the sprung loaded track mounted decouplers without them uncoupling. To uncouple using the track fitted sprung versions, you reverse the loco so that the couplings are in compression instead of tension. You back up until the coupling is sitting over the track mounted sprung decouple, then pull forward to leave the uncoupled wagon(s) behind.

[walkingthedog]

Keihtp look at my picture above. Uncoupling  never fails and unless you are using a huge spatula how the heck can it derail a  wagon?  🤔

This is a reconstruction of an uncoupling posed by models. No wagons were hurt taking the picture. 

[Chrissaf]

...maybe I have not got the knack for manual uncoupling, or perhaps I am doing it completely wrong.

.

The knack is to first push the wagons together to release the tension between the hook and the loop. Then you can use the spatula to lift the hooks. The Tension Lock couplings are designed as the name suggests to 'Lock' together when in 'Tension'.

.

This is why you can haul a rake of wagons over the sprung loaded track mounted decouplers without them uncoupling. To uncouple using the track fitted sprung versions, you reverse the loco so that the couplings are in compression instead of tension. You back up the wagons until the coupling is sitting over the track mounted sprung decouple, then pull forward to leave the uncoupled wagon(s) behind. Because the 'Tension Locks' are in compression and not tension, the hooks clear the loop and lift.

[Gordonvale]

For tension lock couplers.

Acquire a piece of soft flexible plastic about 0.25mm thick. EG: supermarket veggie packaging or laminated A4.

Cut a 10mm wide strip about 100mm long, and thread it in the centre of the track, so that it goes over about 8 sleepers and under two sleepers at each end. Check that it doesn’t foul the backs of the rolling stocks wheels.

It forms a raised hump. Adjust for height by pushing items of rolling stock over it to ensure that the coupling hooks lift clear of the bar.

Depending on your make of track and its sleeper spacing and stock manufacturer, it may be necessary to adjust these details.

Pulling stock over the ramp just depresses it and doesn’t lift the coupler hooks as they pass over. Pushing stock over the ramp lifts the coupler hooks. Stop, then move off in the opposite direction and the uncoupling is done.

Once adjusted, fix the ramp in place with a track pin at each end.

The mechanics are similar to those of the Hornby R617 uncoupling ramp.

The major differences are:

• the R617 contains a spring to raise the plastic ramp back up after being depressed by a coupler, whereas the homemade ramp has natural spring in it;

• the homemade comes free of charge; and

• if using laminated A4, the homemade can come in many colours.

[LCDR]

This is how Triang described it when the Tension lock was introduced.

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[keithp1707821843]

OK - Clearly I need to re-think this. But thank you all for your advice & help. I think I am bring too clumsy with the home made spatula, which I think needs a makeover. Its only an issue as the siding is the first layout and the whole point is to shunt wagons.

[walkingthedog]

Quite nice to uncouple wagons by hand, just like the real thing. 

[LCDR]

Provided you can reach them.

 

Scenery can become a confounded nuisance!

[96RAF]

Go back to the old GM solenoid up-plunger uncoupler - still available to purchase.

[St1ngr4y]

There's a YouTube video by someone who converted his tension-lock couplings to be operated by magnets, like Kadee. It involved fixing a bent paperclip to the hook arm at the wagon end of the arm. When pushed over a magnet, the paperclip was pulled downwards, lifting the hook-end. When pulled over the magnet, the tension-lock holds them locked.

 

Ray

[keithp1707821843]

Ok thanks again.

I think the issue has been that when I push the plastic under the locks, it either catches the wagon and moves it off the rails or if not and I lift it, it then lifts the wagon, not just the locks. Looking at the locks, they are a bit stiff and also they have to be in the correct place. All the wagons are new and vary from 3 to 5 planks and a brake van.

As I said before, perhaps I am just clumsy, so will keep practising.

[walkingthedog]

The uncoupler doesn't need to be too wide and the wagons must be pushed together.