Pledge/Klear/Revive-It/Whatever

[James Bisley]

I'm looking to buy some of the fabled pledge gloss coat. On amazon there appears to be 2 versions - Pledge Multi Surface Wax and Revive it Floor Gloss:

#1: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1TGHIBGO2GW9A&dchild=1&keywords=pledge+revive+it&qid=1599585526&sprefix=pledge+rev%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-7

#2: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-11182-Revive-Transparent-Liquid/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1TGHIBGO2GW9A&dchild=1&keywords=pledge+revive+it&qid=1599585526&sprefix=pledge+rev%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-6

What is the difference between the two products does anyone know? Also there appears to be a mix of reviews for pledge; the most say its wonderful and the only gloss varnish you'll ever need and others say its vastly overrated and you should buy dedicated pro stuff. Can someone clarify?

Thanks very much

[Aad Gadgie]

Hi James, the stuff I use is "Pledge multi-surface polish" (I'd be wary of anything with the word "wax" in the name, as I don't know how it would react with paint, white spirit, etc.).  I mainly use it to provide a smooth surface to help decals adhere properly, and to protect the paint from later weathering processes.  I find two coats applied sparingly with a wide, flat brush works well.  It does give a pretty glossy finish, but I can't compare it to an actual gloss varnish, since I don't want my subjects - mainly AFVs and WWII aircraft - to be shiny.  After decaling, I put another coat of Pledge on to protect them, then do the weathering, then apply matt varnish.  Pledge is an acrylic, so weathering with an oil & white spirit wash doesn't hurt it.  It's also intended as a floor polish, so it should be pretty tough as a varnish.

[Mtchllro]

I am a pledge multisurface wax user and have so far found no bad points .

It has not yet let me down. I dip every canopy in it rest it on a piece of kitchen towel perfect every time.

Underneath decals and over them. I brought a bottle 4yrs ago and am about 1/2 way through it.

Works ok through airbrush though I mainly hairy stick it on.

The perfume can get a little bit too much at times but it's still a lot better then normal varnishes (the model's don't smell after a Day or so).

As for the other product I haven't heard of it before so cannot comment. (Apart from saying try it on a test piece even sprue and see how it behaves)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008HFVO32/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

 

[Aad Gadgie]

Thanks for that, Mtchllro, nice to know the "wax" version is safe to use 😎

[peebeep]

There seems to be a concerted campaign underway to denounce products that don't come in model product sized bottles and with model product related descriptions. Yes, there are some very good products from Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo, but personally I'm quite familiar and happy to go with the non-modelling products. I've been happily using old formula Klear for a couple of decades or more in the knowledge that it works for me in a perfectly satisfactory and predictable manner and will continue to do so until the bottles I have run out. In the mean time I've acquired some Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss and after testing some it seems to me to be the closest thing to old school Klear, so that's what I'll continue to use, although I do have some Tamiya and GS stuff to try out. 

[James Bisley]

Thanks for the help all

[Mtchllro]

Just to clear up any confusion.

I think the wax and polish are the same just different wording for some countries.

 

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[dogsbody]

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I have this old bottle of Future. I don't remember when I bought it, but I think it's at least 15 years old. The reason for the clear plastic wrap and rubber bands instead of a proper lid is because the lid was damaged during removing then bringing back everything in my basement hobby room after a sewer backup 4 years ago. I just used it last week on my Airfix Hurricane canopy. It worked great. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures.

 

 

Chris

[Peter s]

My bottle is marked "wax" too and its fine. A little yellow in solution but makes canopies shine and doesn't mess with any of the acrylic paints I use.

I agree with Paul Brown: you can mix gallons of tamiya thinner with grocery store/pharmacy products (isopropyl alcohol aka surgical spirit and some glycerine if you want a retarder). Its 80% water so you're paying a fortune for a little jar of "tapoline" . Emery boards from a pound store beauty section are a fraction of "modelling" sanding sticks etc. Even proper swann-morton scalpels are cheaper than modelling knives.

[Mtchllro]

I'm a big fan of cutting costs as I am on a tight budget.

I found a set of "nail decorating brushes" with nice pink handles which are perfect for fine detailed work £2 at home bargins along with a pair of cutical cutters which are my go to side cutters (again pink).

when my daughter has a clean out of her makeup boxs I grab all the brushes/pads and countless other bits n bobs I think are handy like long hair grips and her makeup brush cleaning set which I use to shake paint up , i am testing out using foundation for skin tones( so far so good looks perfect I just need to source a way of sealing it i have 3 on test atm).

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[Peter s]

I'd argue foundation is really no different to pigment...... A coat of spray varnish should work. In fact in theory you could use it on an SAS Landrover or Gulf war jet to weather the desert pink base colour