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Is any of this compatible with DCC...?


Guest Chrissaf

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Well carriages are carriages, so they will be ok, you might need to change the wheels. The same with goods wagons.. As to the locos, if you convert them, yes you can use them. The big question is do you want to pay to convert them?

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The dark maroon LMS loco (which I think is Duchess of Atholl) - looks like it has 3 rail pick-up between the drive wheels - as such it would need converting to two rail first (which probably won't be that easy due to the metal chassis)

Then (from memory) there is very little space inside the loco (when you leave some give to slide the chassis out) so you'd then have to put the DCC chip inside the tender and wire the tender to the loco.

And then there is a 3rd problem, being a 1950s loco it will draw more current so the DCC decoder will need to be able to provide the larger current (so a more expensive decoder)

Probably better to leave well alone and sell that loco to someone that wants to run 3-Rail. 

I don't think you have many 3-Rail locos in those images , but you might want to check all the locos for 3rd rail pickups - and split them out to deal with as 3-Rail.

Also check the rolling stock - as if they have metal wheels and metal axles (with no insulation) then without changing the wheels such stock is also only suitable for 3-Rail operation as it will short out a 2 rail setup.Your other issue with the rolling stock will be coupling types - as the earlier Hornby Dublo (Peco) couplings wil not connect to the newer ones (and vice versa) 

 

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Mark, Hi, the wagons in blue boxes are Hornby Dublo, 3 rail, with metal wheels, so will short out, unless  are all changed. also, couplings wont fit. It is also, my belief, that at least one loco, is 3 rail, and it would be terrible to convert that to 2 rail. If you look under the locos, and they have centre pick ups, they are 3 rail. You appear to have no 3 rail track, but its as cheap as chips, if you wanted to pick up some, out of sentimentality..

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I have recently found all of these OO trains in the loft from my family and wondered if they are usable on my new DCC set? I'm really a novice but notice that some of the couplings are different and I'm assuming the engines would be tricky to convert... would I be better selling this kit and buying new?  Many thanks in advance...

 

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TIP: As a newbie poster on the forum, just be aware that the 'Blue Button with the White Arrow' is not a 'Reply to this post' button. If you want to reply to any of the posts, scroll down and write your reply in the reply text box at the bottom of the page and click the Green 'Reply' button.

.

See also – further TIPs on how to get the best user experience from this forum.

https://www.hornby.com/uk-en/forum/tips-on-using-the-forum/

.

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Apart from the 3 rail locos/stock and the plastic Kitmaster/Airfix kits the rest should be convertible. What you may not be aware of is that the 2 tone green transcontinental OH electric loco and the blue D5578 class 31 are quite rare and if you get a reasonable price for them it'll go a good way to paint for the others to be converted. I am assuming that they are working and in as good a condition as they Appear to be. 

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Back on topic, though the OP has probably run for cover by now... 😉

 

Apart from the Tri-ang Railways green double cab overhead electric loco and the blue and white Brush diesel loco, there are a lot of less common, and "rare" items in those photos.

 

Are the two Hornby Dublo bridges made of metal, or plastic?

 

The GNR "single" No. 1 is a Kitmaster plastic kit made up...this isn't that common.

 

Also probably Kitmaster, but also re released by Airfix, are the Schools Class, Prairie Tank, and City of Truro locos.

 

The two Hornby Dublo Restaurant Cars are good.

 

The two LMS coaches are from a train set with the Duchess of Athol 3 rail loco.

 

The Hornby Dublo 2-rail 0-6-2 goods train set in the box has Playcraft (made by Jouef) wagons in the boxes intended for the track. The black tank loco 69550 belongs in the empty loco box in this set.

 

Also the Castle Class loco is a later Hornby Dublo version, though the pick ups look to have been replaced.

 

Over by the bridges, is a Playcraft loco shed.

 

The Jouef crane is not common.

 

If you could find the right buyer or buyers, then it would possibly be better to sell on, and reinvest the proceeeds into your DCC models.

 

Not that conversion can not be done, but the result would still not be totally compatible with a railway built from current track and stock, due to coupling and wheel standards being different.

 

The Lima Class 33 looks to be the most modern item. Though not DCC ready, it is possible to either re wire with a DCC socket and decoder, or Hard Wire a decoder. It will be fitted with the Lima type of Ringfield, or pancake, motor.

 

Incidently, the wagons on the blue boxes look to already be fitted with plastic wheels suitable for 2 or 3 rail running.

 

The grey brake van was only made with the plastic wheels, early issues coming in the blue and white striped boxes.

 

Quite an interesting collection there.

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Sarah, what a great breakdown for the poster.   .The point i was making, prior to the usual abusive reply, was that the purist amongst us, would never even consider,  converting a 3 rail loco to 2 rail.. There are plenty of 2 rail locos about, whereas,, 3 rail, are becoming harder to find, and some of us, who run daily, are still trying to find the odd ones to complete a full collection.  Consequently, many feel, these un necessary conversions, should be actively, dis couraged..

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Getting back onto the subject as Sarahagain put it, what you need to do is basically work out which ones you want to keep and which ones to sell. Even simple conversions done properly cost money and quite often it is whether you can source the parts to do it. I recently had a lot of Triang and Hornby locos, that I had gained over the years, I basically worked out which ones were worth converting or I wanted to keep and slowly started selling the excess to fund any of my new locos or sound decoders. So as you probably know it is a case of look up on EBay what they are worth. I think as I said previously Triang trucks and carriages will normally work on new track with a change of wheels, but here again sometimes they look a bit dated but not always. I recently wanted some GWR Clerestory coaches, I just happened to watch a review which basically said the new ones were the same as Hornby sold in the 80's and 90's just with a better paint job and wheels. So rather than buy the new price, I just bought some second hand ones and some new wheels. The real plus point was a lot of the old Triang stuff has "screw on" couplings making it easier to convert to newer types.

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Well carriages are carriages, so they will be ok, you might need to change the wheels. The same with goods wagons.. As to the locos, if you convert them, yes you can use them. The big question is do you want to pay to convert them?

Am working with a budget of 0 so am thinking against conversion. Also am a complete novice so would probably mess it up! Thanks 

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Mark, Hi, the wagons in blue boxes are Hornby Dublo, 3 rail, with metal wheels, so will short out, unless  are all changed. also, couplings wont fit. It is also, my belief, that at least one loco, is 3 rail, and it would be terrible to convert that to 2 rail. If you look under the locos, and they have centre pick ups, they are 3 rail. You appear to have no 3 rail track, but its as cheap as chips, if you wanted to pick up some, out of sentimentality..

Thanks for the info, I did find a bag of 3 rail track but have no idea how to power it to check the engines. I think selling and then debuting might Be easier for me

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Back on topic, though the OP has probably run for cover by now... 😉

 

Apart from the Tri-ang Railways green double cab overhead electric loco and the blue and white Brush diesel loco, there are a lot of less common, and "rare" items in those photos.

 

Are the two Hornby Dublo bridges made of metal, or plastic?

 

The GNR "single" No. 1 is a Kitmaster plastic kit made up...this isn't that common.

 

Also probably Kitmaster, but also re released by Airfix, are the Schools Class, Prairie Tank, and City of Truro locos.

 

The two Hornby Dublo Restaurant Cars are good.

 

The two LMS coaches are from a train set with the Duchess of Athol 3 rail loco.

 

The Hornby Dublo 2-rail 0-6-2 goods train set in the box has Playcraft (made by Jouef) wagons in the boxes intended for the track. The black tank loco 69550 belongs in the empty loco box in this set.

 

Also the Castle Class loco is a later Hornby Dublo version, though the pick ups look to have been replaced.

 

Over by the bridges, is a Playcraft loco shed.

 

The Jouef crane is not common.

 

If you could find the right buyer or buyers, then it would possibly be better to sell on, and reinvest the proceeeds into your DCC models.

 

Not that conversion can not be done, but the result would still not be totally compatible with a railway built from current track and stock, due to coupling and wheel standards being different.

 

The Lima Class 33 looks to be the most modern item. Though not DCC ready, it is possible to either re wire with a DCC socket and decoder, or Hard Wire a decoder. It will be fitted with the Lima type of Ringfield, or pancake, motor.

 

Incidently, the wagons on the blue boxes look to already be fitted with plastic wheels suitable for 2 or 3 rail running.

 

The grey brake van was only made with the plastic wheels, early issues coming in the blue and white striped boxes.

 

Quite an interesting collection there.

Thanks so much for the info! That's incredibly helpful! 

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Sarah, what a great breakdown for the poster.   .The point i was making, prior to the usual abusive reply, was that the purist amongst us, would never even consider,  converting a 3 rail loco to 2 rail.. There are plenty of 2 rail locos about, whereas,, 3 rail, are becoming harder to find, and some of us, who run daily, are still trying to find the odd ones to complete a full collection.  Consequently, many feel, these un necessary conversions, should be actively, dis couraged..

Don't worry, I won't convert from 3 to 2. I'll look into selling and then buying 2 rail stock instead

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Getting back onto the subject as Sarahagain put it, what you need to do is basically work out which ones you want to keep and which ones to sell. Even simple conversions done properly cost money and quite often it is whether you can source the parts to do it. I recently had a lot of Triang and Hornby locos, that I had gained over the years, I basically worked out which ones were worth converting or I wanted to keep and slowly started selling the excess to fund any of my new locos or sound decoders. So as you probably know it is a case of look up on EBay what they are worth. I think as I said previously Triang trucks and carriages will normally work on new track with a change of wheels, but here again sometimes they look a bit dated but not always. I recently wanted some GWR Clerestory coaches, I just happened to watch a review which basically said the new ones were the same as Hornby sold in the 80's and 90's just with a better paint job and wheels. So rather than buy the new price, I just bought some second hand ones and some new wheels. The real plus point was a lot of the old Triang stuff has "screw on" couplings making it easier to convert to newer types.

Great info thanks! I'll have a look but make sure I've got newer plastic wheels!

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@Mark,

It would be really appreciated if you would try and avoid making such extensive use of the 'Blue Button' in your replies. Particularly when it is being used on relatively long original posts. If you want to bring a reply to the attention of a specific individual, it is only necessary to start your reply with @username like I did at the start of this reply using @Mark.

 

The last batch of replies on this page could have been condensed into one single concise post following for example a layout such as:

 

@ColinB

Your comment

 

@bulliedboy

Your comment

 

@sarahagain

Your comment

 

etc

 

In my 19:00 reply on Page 1 of this thread ... I provided a clickable link to a forum TIPs page. I would be grateful if you would review TIP 1 to TIP 3, which documents how you could reduce the amount of unnecessary duplicated text when the 'Blue Button' is used.

 

For example 'Sarahs' long reply text could have been edited in your reply to remove the bulk of duplicated text.

 

It is far more efficient to use the intended 'Reply Text Box' at the bottom of the page rather than the 'Blue Button' when writing a reply. The 'Blue Button' is not a 'Reply to this post' button.

 

Thanking you in advance for your compliance with this matter.

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