Coreflute Baseboard ?

[Kevin Hodges]

 

I just had an idea for a super lightweight, easy to cut baseboard material.

 

5mm plastic Coreflute. The stuff they use for outdoor advertising board.

 

Has anyone tried this ? I think laid over a traditional timber frame it would be pretty strong and rigid.

 

I'm tired of heavy, unweildly ply.

 

Thoughts ?

 

Kev.

[96RAF]

People have reported on the forum using it for back-scene boards. 5mm may be a tad thin for baseboard tops and it would definitely  drum.

Possibly if the underframe was backed by regular hi-density builders foam which would keep the weight down and give support.

Fixing to it would have to be glue rather than pins or screws.

[Kevin Hodges]

 Hi Raf,

 

I hadn't thought about noise.

 

I might try a small 4x2 panel as a test

[Buz]

Hi Kevin Hodges

Drumming might be an issue but so might strength.

I would suggest two layers of core-flute set 90 degrees apart and glued together like the war-gamer's do with corrugated card board to make strong  bases for structures.

regards John

[Kevin Hodges]

 Thanks John,

 

I shall experiment.

 

I want to relocate (and modify) my current layout, but it is so heavy to lift and deal with.

 

Whilst I'm at it, I thought re-basing everything on lighter material would make life easier.

 

Kev.

[threelink]

Hi KH. I've not tried coreflute but I have used scrap industrial packaging in the form of triple walled corrugated cardboard glued and screwed onto lightweight stripwood framing, with cardboard (cereal packet) gussets glued on for additional security. It is best emulsioned underneath in satin vinyl emulsion (2 coats) to keep out the damp. The stuff that goes under faux wooden flooring makes good sound proofing on the top (2 layers glued down with spray contact adhesive) as does thin expanded polystyrene wall insulation but this does not take kindly to certain adhesives, especially contact adhesive which melts it. On balance I prefer the flooring stuff. For additional rigidity on a portable layout basebord I formed the stripwood into a simple  box girder arrangement. It is featherlight yet immenslely strong. Best of luck with your experiments. I shall be interested to hear the results.

[96RAF]

I have a temporary trackmat sized test layout laid on laminate flooring underlay tiles placed on top of a pair of folding banquet tables, as I didn’t want to risk damaging the table tops By laying track direct on them.

.

The 5mm thick green underlay boards were laid double thickness so I could pin the track down and secure point motors topside.

.

I had to emulsion the boards as they are made from loose fibre which was getting everywhere, but the emulsion doesn’t take that well and easily brushes off from the edges when you rub against them.

 

With hindsight I should have bitten the bullet and made a lightweight ply top with small section softwood underframing that could have been stood against the wall when not in use. Point motors could have been screwed down into small ply pads glued under the top boards. We live and learn.

[threelink]

Hi RAF. The  laminate underlay I use  has a hardish surface top and bottom so sealing in the fibres. It came from Wickes, I think. It crumbles a bit if damaged but is easily sealed with PVA if need be. I've not had any problems such as you describe but yes, things can only be glued to it so and I would certainly not try to pin down track or anything else without  a solid baseboard beneath the underlay to accept the pins. I would never regard the underlay as baseboard material, only as sound deadening. It's interesting to hear of others' experience with this underlay.

[DNME]

At my place of work we use polycarbonate fluted material for roofs, deeper than 5mm. It is strong and we often cut scrap of it up, it screams literally (3 x louder than timber) when cut (crosscut tee, jigsaw, table saw) . It is strong but as stated attaching things to it would involve adhesive(or building silicone/sealant) I think in time it will weaken and seperate, or appropriate screws (vibration may loosen these}. It is very light though, but once dented or damaged it stays like it and easier to do than say plywood. I just built first train tables (for uncle 4 joined up ones, largest ply panel 1200x600mm} used 12mm ply and batons. I would stick with the plywood (glue and tacking) although may get hold of an offcut and test the polycarbonate. Think it also has more flex than plywood.