Buz

Hi all I use the older Hornby system six buffer stops, Hornby Dublo illuminated hydraulic buffer stops that have been wired to light up as soon as the layout is powered up. Peco set track and streamline buffer stops. I have used a piece of rail insulated and soldered across the track a wood screw that has a pile of acrylic modelling paste for a dirt pile, sleepers and a stop sign. Wheel stops at the end of the track super glued and painted bright orange or yellow as per the prototype. A case of whatever suits what I am doing at the time and will stop anything going off the end of the track. For temporary I don't have one use, I use a block of wood and a wood screw to hold it in place until I have one. I then fill in the hole and scenic over it when I have a suitable buffer stop or more track to continue the line to where it is going. I also run analogue so DCC doesn't even figure into the consideration where needed eg:- passenger terminals close to the edge of the known world I also cut a rail and put a diode across it to stop the train but still allow it to reverse I would rather not see the station building and train go to oblivion. regards John

Hi david_abramczyk The old Triang 4wh coaches are based on a Caledonian coach based being the important word as I believe even for that short coach that was limited to one particular branch line that they are to short. How ever I have seen a real 3 compartment 1st 2nd composite coach all be it a 3'6" gauge coach My thoughts paint it grey or vermilion class label it 2nd 1st 2nd or all third and decal it for the something or other Lt Rly Another idea if you can pull it off turn two compartments into one furnish in a luxurious fashion the now second and much smaller compartment is furnished for the servants and the local lord of the manor has his personal saloon so a quality coach paint job is on the cards Regards John

Hi HST Mainline The lack of commonality in manufacturer color coding, and the unintentional loss of a couple of point machines (burned out) due to wiring error on installation. Partly caused by the lack of a common wire code and some of the stupidly small diagrams sometimes supplied by the manufacturer's. This is why I developed a color code of my own and draw a wiring sketch as wiring progresses so I can make sure it is got right and works as I go and quickly fix any construction errors, before it's I don't like the electrical burnt smell of that. I don't do third rail for model trains. But just like with the Triang catinery wires it efectivly becomes two track CCT's with a common return and usually won't cause a short if trains are running in opposite directions on the same track. regards John

Hi HST Mainline There is some logic but not much, in that red is positive black is negative and green is earth. However this goes out the window with the points which should technically be red red and black. I use brown (normal), yellow (reverse) and black (common return) for points and red with green trace and and green with red trace and black with red for solenoid operated semaphores or yellow green and green yellow and black with yellow depending on signal type home or distant. I use red , black for 16V AC and red, black both with a white trace for DC. Track is Blue and White with blue trace or purple and white with a purple trace always different colors for each track with appropriate traces that are different to everything else. Having a set color code that makes it easy to follow and clearly marks every wires function is a must given the usual rats nest of wiring found under model railways. Not many take the time to do it neatly so its easy to follow what's what. Color codes are from my point of view a must for when the inevitable electrical trouble strikes later on so you can more easily find and fix it regards John

hi John-350544 I remember Nellie Polly and Connie blue red and yellow respectively there was also a later S&DJR version and green one no72 I think, lets not forget the red one with a chrome dome. Then the weird euro thing done both in clockwork and later as an electric and the North British diesel in BR blue (set only) and BR green and the Dutch OH electric in BR green pretty sure they all had the same chassis and motor but others may know better on that score. I had Nellie, the S&DJR, the chrome dome and the BR blue North British. The North British came as a propper pick up goods set with brake van. I think Nellie is still lurking some where waiting for replica decals and brass name and number plates and builders plate when I work out who might have built it a 1960's super detail job LOL. If you find a Polly in good working order don't forget the later model open wagon fish van and brake van to go with itsmiley and look for modern wheels to fit them the open wagon looked good with split spoke wheels if its the wooden framed variant. It will also be advisable to find a period good quality train controller ( don't forget to get it safety checked ) as well some of the older locomotives don't like the modern DC controllers. regards John

Hi Jimbo Well according to the old Dublo Adds your to young to quit you still have another nine years to go. I wish you well for the future regards John

Hi Topcat No Lanky stock that I know about in the RTR except some O gauge Hornby tin plate. It could be because the LMS did a pretty good job of wiping out the Lanky locomotive fleet and a lot of other stuff pretty early. Something they would regret later as the L&Y had a big engine policy, where as the Midland had a small engine policy and the smaller Midland engines did not do to well in EX Lanky territory. Mostly out of a case of getting even for some supposed slight that was supposed to have happened between the MR and the L&Y railways. It was the Midland railway that ruled the roost in the early days of the LMS after the grouping. Having said that I am sure one of the ROD freight engines was a direct copy of a L&Y locomotive and a rare survivor on the LMS as a freight locomotive. I am sure it was a fairly large freight engine. regards John

Hi trevor347513 I have quite a mixture of trains from the 1960's right through to today's models and all run on the same DC layout without much in the way of problems. With the rolling stock there won't be much of an issuie some wheels may need replacing due to wear plenty of modern wheels of the correct sizes available that will fit 1960's Triang and Triang-Hornby pin point bearings. If you look for them you can even get modern wheels and spring clips for Hornby Dublo trains then you will need a converter wagon due to the different couplings. Locomotives however will need a good service and may need wheels changed anything diesel or electric that has the knurled wheels will need to have those changed as a matter of course. Even though the 60's and modern analogue are both DC some of them won't run well on the older or more modern transformer controllers as the case may be. This however is quite easy to overcome you need a good quality 1960's transformer controller (Get It Safety Checked by a Qualified Electrician) and a good quality modern transformer controller. (NOT the ones that come in a train set they are not very good and brand makes no difference to that) You also need an Atlas (a USA model railway company) selector switch, you then wire the 60's and modern analogue controllers through the selector switch as you would for cab control. Cab Control is a method for wiring up DC layouts with multiple controllers usually with multiple Block sections that allowed more than one operator to operate trains through the different Block sections. When done correctly you will be able to easily select the 60's or modern as the appropriate controller to operate the train in use, and if you go more complex which block section is which controller. It sounds complicated but I can assure you it is not, just make sure you get the common return track feed wiring bit right and all will be OK. regards John

Hi all Me I use an old high school desk its nice and sturdy with steel legs and frame and a solid top. It is also small enough not to get in the way. As an aside I have a second one that has been recycled into a model railway base board, and uses the frame and most of the top as well admittedly it has a Japaneses narrow gauge pioneer line on it. The translation I saw on the colonization lines wasn't quite right in my view as the Japanese did not colonize there own nation so pioneer lines would be a more accurate description for how they came about and what they are. regards John.

Hi all Keeping modelling, is cheaper than medication or a trip to the funny farm. Let us not forget the the hobby is first and foremost a making hobby so the more you make your self the cheaper it gets and its more fun to make things. And its great for the mental health no mean feat in a post Covid world, and it has therapeutic value in other medical situations what a great hobby we have. For me its time to dig out some of the royal and ancient magazines I have, and look for things to make. You know the magazines from back when the magazines actually told you how make and kit-bash things and provided useful hints and tips as well. Rather than just presenting the vast empires that requiring a nice fat cheque book. Because they are that big that one man can't build them without vast usage of commercial ready builds of everything, instead of making the things you can. regards John

Hi Topcat You have the cash for O scale you probably have enough space as well. The question becomes how long between individual purchases and what gets made rather than bought. And are the restrictions the available space gives workable. Like I said all the layout options will cost you the same regardless of the scale you build. What changes is the size of the chunks of cash you spend at any one time. But no one is going to spend more than they can afford on a layout. regards John

Hi Dan It doesn't matter which scale you choose large or small the layout will cost exactly the same. It sounds strange but none the less it is true the constraints are the space you have and the available budget for the project. N and OO are similar in cost per piece. Don't forget to have a look at the new TT120 that could be worth a look as well. My preference is a plan based on a real station the end result is more believable. Start the traditional way with a train set. Look at the older magazines, the internet and books for ideas. Start simple but allow for expansion it will grow in time, avoid the temptation to to go big and complicated straight away that is a recipe for disaster. DO NOT take short cuts take your time and do the bench work track and wiring properly that will give you the reliability that is needed to hold the interest regards John

Hi top cat The ophthalmologist suggested to me an optivisor might be helpful. I have infantile glaucoma. and not that long ago had cataracts done. The cataracts where a PITA they put a stop to a lot of things before they where fixed. The beauty of an optivisor is it can be used over the top of my glasses without the risk of damaging them. If in doubt and you have an ophthalmologist talk to them about the best solution. there will be a workable solution to the problem regards John

Hi English Bob Get your self an optivisor you won't regret it if you can afford it get the one with LED lights I use an optivisor for a lot of things involved in the hobby. I have had no choice due to life time eye issues. For a kit like that it is just not worth paying some one to build and paint the kit for you. regards John

Hi all Depending on your point of view until recently TT was either a dead scale or a specialty scale. So I have not seen anything in the more recent publications. That said many of the much older Railway Modeller, Model Railway Constructor and Model Railway News magazines have had TT scale articles in them as have some others that I forget the names of. Don't know what was available in continental and US magazines but I would have though there would be something. With some nice small layouts and some more substantial layouts and interesting conversion and construction articles But I don't know if the NEW modern Hornby TT120 scale is 3mm to the foot which is what may of the TT articles where about. I wonder is the old Triang is compatible with the new with minimal tinkering. regards John