1:72 Defiant (Starter Set version) - delicate part issues

[Matthew Gotts]

Morning, hope this is the correct sub-forum, please let me know if not!

I'm building a few starter kits to get back into modelling so appreciate that they won't turn out perfectly as they are effectively practice kits. However, I've run into a couple of issues on the subject title model which doubtless will reoccur elsewhere and wondered if anyone has any tips or advice.

Firstly how do folks straighten parts, particularly thin delicate ones, that have got bent in the box? Part of the Defiant's undercarriage was a bit bent, so I decided to try and warm it up over a tealight candle to help it move back into shape. On reflection not the best move - the heat caused the part to shrivel up so I've now lost a part, unless I can work out how to scratch build one which is unlikely!

The other matter is that the pitot tube part is broken in half on the sprue (it's held by each end so snapped in the middle). I tried gluing it while still on the sprue but in the process of putting the sprue in and out of the box it snapped again and I'm uncertain how strong a fix will be once removed from the sprue. I used plastic cement to make the first repair, perhaps superglue would be better?

Any tips would be appreciated so I can address these issues in the future, and possibly use them to rescue the current model!

Thanks, Matt

[Heather Kavanagh]

For things like pitot tubes and aerial masts I almost invariably replace them with brass rod. Bitter experience tells me such things that stick out from models are always going to be vulnerable to damage, either before they’re stuck on or while sitting on the shelf!

For the undercarriage problem, my first course would be contacting Customer Services - there's a link over at the bottom right of the text block on the right of this page, if I recall. As the Defiant is supposedly a current stock item, spares should be available.

Alternatively, if you don’t feel up to scratching a replacement, build the model wheels up.

If you’re looking for brass material, the usual go-to source is Albion Alloys. Search for that online, although most good model shops stock them. They have an extensive range of wire, rod and tube which can be hugely beneficial to modellers of all kinds.

[Kenneth ONeill]

I agree with Heather about small quantities of metal stock shapes. I'd also recommend going to your LMS if you have one, at least for the first order, so you can see exactly what you're buying, and make sure that rod (and thin tube if applicable) fit neatly inside larger bore tube.

[T2B]

Hi Matt and welcome to the forum and back to modelling.

Firstly an open flame is too fierce for plastic, especially the new softer Airfix plastic, unless of course you intend to melt it (more later). You would have been better immersing the part in hot/boiling water for a few mins which would make the part more plyable to straighten gently.

Unfortunately delicate parts can get broken and repairing on a sprue can often be the best way to get the correct alignment, but a repair is always weaker than the original item. Poly cement is good cos it welds plastic, super glue is also good and strong but very brittle. It would probably have broken again whilst trying to remove it from the sprue location points?

Try making a new pitot tube from stretched sprue? Use your flame to heat a length of used sprue runner till it becomes soft, then stretch it out until you have a length of the correct thickness/tapper. Then hold it for a few seconds till it hardens and it can be cut to length. It might take a few goes to get it right, and this method can be used for all manner of thinks like replacement ariels etc!

Hope this helps and keep us updated on your progress ...

[T2B]

All good suggestions above Matt as I now also use brass rod where needed, but it's an extra expense when just starting out, stretched sprue is free!

A bit of cross over on posts as above users replied whilst I was typing and moderator software rejected my first post for my use of a word suggesting an 'undressed flame' 😄

[peebeep]

When heating small parts you need to go easy with the heat. Actually that applies to larger parts, I had an SM 79 cowling that was out of shape, immersed it into hot water and it ended all shrivelled up. Boiling water is a big no, no. These days I have a small hair drier that's ideal for heating up plastic parts for straightening out, you can do it by degrees. Quench in cold water immediately, because plastic has a 'memory' and will revert to the previous bent state. Quenching prevents this.

Small parts are best replaced with wire, rod or tube as above, although superglue with silicon additive is good for effecting repairs. Depending on the size of the part it's sometimes possible to use a micro drill and add some wire reinforcement.

[Matthew Gotts]

Many thanks for all the helpful tips and advice, what a great forum!

Will have to check out the brass rod option with an eye to future kits, but won't bother with this one too much. Have done some sprue stretching in years past so will give that a go to see if I can replace the damaged part of the undercarriage, will post pics if it goes anywhere near to plan!

I know I'm going to have to repair another kit I've got at some point which is a bit more important to me (one my late dad had and never got started due to illness so I want to do it "right" for him), so I'm glad in some ways to have these disasters now so I know what not to do in the future!!

Thanks again, Matt

[Matthew Gotts]

So, on the principle that I had nothing to lose I had a go at stretching sprue to try and rebuild the melted part. Took a few goes to get some as the plastic kept snapping rather than stretching, it felt more 'rubbery' than I remember, different formula?

 

Anyway, as the collage shows I managed to do it, much to my delight given how small the bits are and how bad my dexterity/eyesight is! Doesn’t bear up to close scrutiny but it holds the undercarriage up and fits which is a win from my perspective.

 

Glad to have got this one done, not the tidiest as it had a few issues but I’m learning. Now onto a very old kit I part started well over 20 years ago and one I’ll try my airbrush out on for the camo.

[T2B]

That's a good 1st effort and a good recovery with the under-carriage leg, it will hardly be seen beneath the aircraft so doesn't need to be perfect.

And I think that Jolly Green will challenge you again!!

[Heather Kavanagh]

Matthew, I think you can congratulate yourself. You are now a modeller, not just someone that assembles kits! wink

Have fun with airbrush. I have only really come to terms with airbrushing my models over the past couple of years, and I’m well past my half century!

[Matthew Gotts]

Thanks for the supportive comments, it's much appreciated! I'm looking forward to having a bash with the airbrush on a model for the first time - I figure nothing to lose!!

The kit certainly is proving interesting...