R8201 Track Link Wire - Do I need it?

[Stephen in Kerry]

As I gather the track and locos for my first layout (there's stuff arriving most days now - just waiting on the baseboard), I discover that there's much I don't know!

For the layout below, I am hoping that a 4 amp transformer with the Hornby Select DCC controller, will be enough to provide power throughout the track, without using a bus wire and dropper wires. This, of course, may not be the case, and I'm basing this assumption on advice given by the owner of a model shop chain in Dublin.

My question is...If it works, will I need the R8201 track link connector to connect any parts of this layout together, or will power be fed throughout the track, without it?

If I do need it, can you please advise on where on the track it should be placed, and if I need more than one pair of connectors.

Thanks for any advice - and your patience with this enthusiastic newbie.

[Chrissaf]

The R8201 Link wire is an Analogue DC product and contains suppression capacitors. Therefore this product should not be used on a digital DCC layout unless the capacitors are physically removed, else the capaciors will distort the DCC data signal.

The capacitors are also the reason why R8206 and R602 DC power connectors should not be used unmodified and why there are specific R8241 and R8242 track connector products without capacitors for DCC.

On a DCC Hornby track layout you use R8232 DCC point clips rather than the R8201 to distribute DCC power round the layout. Thus there should be no need to include a R8201 Link Wire in addition to R8232s on a DCC layout.

I suggest that reading my downloadable 'Getting Started' PDF document will answer many of these type of questions. This document can be downloaded from the 'sticky' post at the top of the General Discussion forum.

[Brew Man]

It might work but it will be dependant on robust connection between all track pieces and point clips. With small layouts it is often fine, but as complexity increases so often does the risk of bad connections. If you do use R8201s you will need to open them up and snip out the suppression capacitors as if left in they will degrade the DCC signals. Many members prefer to solder droppers directly to track and some members connect droppers to every track piece.

[Stephen in Kerry]

@Chrissaf Thanks for the comprehensive reply (as always).

1. I've attached a screenshot from Amazon that clearly states that R8201 is DCC compatible. That was the reason I mentioned that particular part.
2. I have actually fitted R8232 to all the points I've bought for the layout so far (about 8 sets of points) and I've ordered another pack, just in case I need more. This was done while waiting for the rest of the gear - and after reading your PDF.

I was really just asking if I needed the link connector as well as a point clips, but should have made that clearer. Thanks for the clarification.

[Going Spare]

For what it's worth, I would choose to follow Chrissaf's advice rather than Hornby's in many instances as his is based on practical experience whereas Hornby's publicity material seems to be created by marketing personnel who all too often seem to lack that experience.

[Stephen in Kerry]

@GS I very much value Chris's advice which I will be following. However, I have always gone by the view that the real expert on anything is its creator. So, I'm a bit concerned to hear that Hornby may not know more about it's products than anyone else.

[Chrissaf]

That Amazon information is historical and out of date. When the R8201 Link Wire was first released to market, the marketing error was reported to Hornby via this forum. At that time, the error was acknowledged by Hornby and the Hornby website was updated to remove the reference to DCC. The correction was performed on the website entry, but probably not reflected through Hornby's printed product media where Amazon may have got its information from.

If you have already recieved a R8201 then open up either of the two connectors and check for the presence of a capacitor. If the capacitor is missing, then that would indicate that Hornby have followed up on the original error report and updated the original Analogue R8201 to now make it DCC compatible. If the capacitors are still included in the factory manufacturing process then the Amazon information is plainly incorrect.

With regard your image. All image posts are held back for moderator approval. As a result of your comment I went looking and found your post waiting in the approval queue and is now published.

Expanding upon the comment made by Going Spare who by the way hails from a background working in a Hornby Service Centre and his posts should be treated as being from the 'Horses Mouth'.

This is not the only example where Hornby Marketing have published information that has not been counter-signed by their engineering department and had the issue highlighted and acknowledged by Hornby via this forum. For example Marketing were completely unaware that their large corner layout product was full of 'reverse loops'. The Marketing department released the corner layout after making the Hornby Reverse Loop Module required to support the layout design they had just released obsolete. Rob (96RAF) is a Hornby BETA Tester and has access to the Hornby engineers. So when this RLM issue was raised with them by Rob, the reply he got was "Opps". Incidently, this RLM issue has still not been resolved by Marketing.

[Stephen in Kerry]

Thanks again Chris. I was waiting for advice from here, before I ordered R8201, which I won't be doing now.

As you will have seen in another of my posts, I ordered a power track from Hornby along with nearly €400 worth of other 'bits'. That track will need to have its capacitor removed, to make it DCC compatible. I've ordered the wire cutters, proving that my commitment to the hobby knows no bounds. :)

Incidentally, I placed the Hornby order 5 days prior to other orders from Hattons and Amazon. They have all arrived over a week ago and I'm told the Hornby order may turn up tomorrow.

I've also placed a 2nd order with Hattons (for a DCC sound fitted and weathered Bachmann Class 2MT Ivatt), which has shipped. Given Hattons wide range and their very fast shipping - not to mention that they're based 10 miles from where I was born - I think they will be my go-to supplier from now on.

[Brew Man]

R8201 will be fine as long as you snip out the capacitors, which you will need to do anyway with the power track you have bought. The track connector housing splits open very easily.

[Stephen in Kerry]

@Brew Man, thanks again for the helpful advice. The main bulk of the track should be arriving this week, so I'll get to work with the wire cutters.

Perhaps I don't need R8201 at all though, as Chris says the point clips should be enough.

[96RAF]

If running several locos at once do not rely upon the point clips to carry track power across several loops and a fan of sidings as shown on your track-plan, as they are only designed to provide continuity into a second loop or couple of sidings, not carry full track power from a single power connection. They are after all only thick iron wire which is not a good conductor of electricity but is a good heater element.

Chris’s guide will show you how and where to add more power feeds.

[Stephen in Kerry]

@96RAF Thank again, I have pages 19 to 22 of Chris's guide (Part 6, Connecting Power - Digital DCC Control) printed out, and will be studying it over several cups of coffee. :)

[96RAF]

Note that if you are installing a power bus per your other post then the point clips are belt and braces and not really needed, but nothing is lost by leaving them in.