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DCC fitted


Hawk1707822705

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A lot depends on what it is. If it is a Mallard that has sound then probably it is fitted with a TTS decoder which will not work on DC. If it is a Mallard that is fitted with just a DCC decoder then it could be that someone has disabled the DC option, also if someone has programmed an address into it other than 3 (the default value) then the DC option is usually disabled. The easiest thing to do is find where the DCC decoder is (loco or tender) and replace the DCC decoder with a DC header which you can get off EBay. What is the model number of your Mallard? I can look it up and tell you where the DCC decoder is located.

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As default TTS decoders are set for DCC running only, hence why it will not work on DC. You can given access to a DCC controller re-enable DC running but as noted in the TTS instructions you will only regain motor control, not sound.

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Hawk,

A very unfortunate example of the easily made confusion between Digital and Analogue systems that "innocent" people can make. I think ColinB has given you the simplest solution provided you are okay with taking the body off [which isn't too difficult]. Buy a DCC blanking plug, what ColinB calls a "header" plug, [£3.05 on Ebay] and swap with the DCC decoder plug - you can leave the decoder and speaker, just swap the 8 pin plugs and perhaps wrap a bit of insulation tape around the decoder plug.

This assumes that the decoder is not a direct fit. I've got this model but it is boxed up at the moment, I am sure someone else will come along and advise if it is direct or wired with a plug.

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Oh that explains it. There should be a lead linking loco to tender. If this is the case then the DCC decoder is in the tender. The instructions should tell you how to get to it but if not. At the back of the tender is the coupling, this is push fit to the tender. Remove the coupling and its holder from the tender base by pushing down from the top. Underneath this should be a crosshead screw, it will be recessed inside the tender. Unscrew this and carefully pull the tender top upwards, it is attached to the front by a "push in" piece on the front of the tender, so be careful. You should then see the DCC decoder 8 pin header that you have to replace with the blanking plate. The tender looks quite big with no coal bunker, so you can just leave the decoder in situ, as someone said just insulate the decoder pins so they don't touch anything.

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Perhaps if someone ever has the ear of Simon Kohler, they might suggest that rather than disabling DC on TTS decoders an idea might be to only disable it if it sees a valid DCC signal (for any loco or accessory), in software this is easy to achieve and it would solve issues like this in the future. Detail may be everything but if there are no young people to buy the stuff in the future then you are wasting your time. Ok you wouldn't get the sound but at least the loco would work. Seeing as these sorts of locos appear to be targeted at the younger generation it would at least not put the person off quite so quickly.

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Two alternatives to removing the decoder and putting in a blanking plate:

  • find someone with a DCC controller who can reinstate DC Running. Maybe a local model shop? It’s a simple “CV” programming adjustment to fix it for analog running but can only be performed by a DCC controller
  • go DCC by buying a DCC controller. Maybe a Select (new or with latest firmware) or an eLink and Railmaster (RM). If you have other locos though, all will need conversion to DCC as a DC/analog loco cannot run on a DCC layout due to the risk of motor burnout.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the 8 pin blanking plug and unplugged the sound from the socket in the tender and plugged in the plug. The train now works for a few seconds and then cuts out the power to the controller completely and I have to switch off and reset it to get power back. The analogue trains do not cause this.

Any help or thoughts appreciated!

Thanks, 

Rich

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If the wheels were constricted then the loco will have been drawing excess current, so yes, that is the likely cause of the controller cutting out. Those controllers are, as you say, basic and are only really meant to get you going. My advice, and I am sure that of many here would be to upgrade to a better controller. Glad though that the problem has been sorted.

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I think ,if this is the loco Sam reviewed, the issue is that the loco doesn't have tender pickups. Surprisingly the sound is in the tender but doesn't have tender pickups. Add to that, that it is a 3 pole motor which I assume draws more current, that is probably many of the issues. You can retrofit tender pickups and the Pendolino 5 pole motor fits if you are into fixing locos. Probably your analogue ones have tender pickups and a decent 5 pole motor.

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