Pre-made Signals - Beginner question

[96RAF]

That should keep him happy.

You can attach those signal lamps to the rails using the supplied clip but they only go one way (left hand side of track in the direction of running) and obviously where there is a slot between the sleepers same as for a power clip or link wires.

One of the problems of a temporary setup is all the electric knitting which is required when you start to add accessories.

[A J Rimmer]

Thanks!

Yes I'd noticed that :-D Wire's all over the place!

I don't think it'll be too long before it goes on a base board, even if it's just a flat board that we can put free standing scenery on so that it can be put up against the wall when not in use - but enough to hide the wiring. Also I'd like to power the points so he can control them from the same place of the signals and I don't think that would work well loose on the floor.

Good fun though, the Flying Scotsman runs really well, less so the HST, I think it needs a service. The HM2000 is performing really well.

[TVR1707822112]

@Stuart

Glad you've got it working! As mentioned earlier - the clip can go in but it doesn't really look all that realistic as the fit between the signal itself and the clip is poor. I'd recommend screwing it down to the baseboard instead. Another quick tip would be to put the track on some cork underlay when it is going on the baseboard - this helps create a realistic ballast shoulder in case you wish to add ballast later. I would also recommend using track pins to pin it to the baseboard to stop it moving. I use Hatton's essentials pins but any brand will do.

I'd recommend also having a look at Sam'sTrains YouTube channel and also EuviRail, who have done some great reviews on locos and rolling stock should your son wish to expand. But BEWARE! Some older Hornby Dublo rolling stock was designed for 3 rail track and so will not work on modern track, due to the way the electricity runs through it it will short out the controller. This will also happen if, say, a screwdriver is left against both rails. Also beware about coupling types - as I am sure you will have noticed - a lot of the modern stock is fitted with a slimmer design of tension lock that the older stuff. They will still work together, but they can be fiddly to uncouple, in my experience.

Regarding servicing the HST, depending on what motor it has the process will be slightly different but, if it has the Hornby 'Ringfield' type, I'd recommend a complete disassembly, as demonstrated in the video at the bottom of this post, along with a wheel clean and track clean, which I would recommend doing weekly. Again, more info in a video at the bottom of this post. If it has the newer type, just give it a drop of oil on the worm shaft and on each of the gears - and clean the wheels as well. For oil I use Gaugemaster oil with a small syringe from an inkjet refill kit. To clean the wheel I use two things, a botched Wheel cleaning brush made from a Peco wheel cleaning brush and bits of old copper wire connected to an old controller, and to clean the track I use a Peco track rubber. Some people say that track rubbers are bad for the track, but I have not found this to be the case. Please note that cleaning the track and wheels are essential to keeping the model railway working - without doing this locomotives will become jerky and in some cases not work at all. Also another note - when using the wheel cleaning brush, I put the loco inside a Peco loco cradle to stop damage. Also, when using the wheel brush, put the brush and wire on opposite sides to each other, so one one the middle driving wheel on the left hand side, and the other on the right, otherwise this would cause a short circuit. Cotton buds dipped in Pure alcohol and rubbed on the wheel where it touches the track can be quite useful in removing dirt, as can old wire centered pipe cleaners. Smoke detector batteries have to two connections in just the right place for 00 gauge - so to move the wheels when off the track get a smoke detector battery and place the two connection on the bottom of the wheel - it should turn and allow you to clean.

In terms of expanding, as a next locomotive, I'd recommend the Hornby RailRoad bagnall diesel shunter or any of the 0-4-0s. They're not hugely realistic, but the Bagnall does not look out of place in an industrial setting. The Bagnall's R number is R30051. In terms of wagons, I'd recommend any of the Hornby 'Super detailed' wagons - they look nice and perform well as well.

Let us know if you need any more help!

Best wishes

Here are the links to the videos:

Sam'sTrains channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/SamsTrains/videos

EuviRail: https://www.youtube.com/c/EuviRail/videos

Ringfield servicing:

Track cleaning video:

[96RAF]

I am in process of installing R406 signals to my layout and I have drilled out the pin holes to 2mm and used normal 1" panel pins to nail them down to my 9mm top boards. You can save some weight by using good quality 6mm ply. Avoid B and Q / Homebase quality ply as it will warp before you get it home.

When you get round to making your baseboard, given that it will be lifted for storage give it the best framing you can to avoid twisting, which will disturb your track and may upset the point motors which have to be secure and properly aligned to work reliably. Once all the wiring is definitely finished you can then put a sheet of hardboard or 3mm ply on the bottom to keep the wiring safe and it will also really stiffen the board up - think of how internal doors are made in your house, 2 very thin ply sheets with a folded cardboard core inside.

[RDS]

@Stuart

Moderator Note:

Could you please select the 'View my Community’ in your Dashboard on the Forum and choose a nickname in the ‘My profile' tab, rather than your First name that has been automatically allocated by the system. Hopefully a Forum change is coming soon to prevent this automatic allocation but a manual change is required at the moment and there will be more than one member with your name.

[A J Rimmer]

@tvr - that's an awesome amount of info, thanks very much! I think the HST I have is quite an old one - probably from the 80's. Thanks for the links. I'll have a good look.

The 0-4-0 is a nice idea, I was kind of thinking the same thing although I'm rather partial to the old BR 0-6-0 type shunters (the big blocky rectangular ones). That littler Bagnall looks goo though.

Thanks Man!

@96RAF - thanks for that advice, that sounds just the sort of thing I should do. It might have to wait until I move, but it'll happen, I think he'll get a lot more out of it, especially if I can power the points.

@RDS - It's not actually an auto allocation. I'm on a few scale modelling forums and it's my normal forum name. I can however change it if you wish, it's not a problem.

[TVR1707822112]

@Stuart

Glad you found it useful. I've found the Bagnall to be very reliable and quite a good puller, again, Sam'sTrains has reviewed it as part of train sets - if you're interested they're his reviews of the Coke Christmas set and the iTraveller 6000. Both Hornby and Bachmann do models of the 08 shunters which I think you were referring to, they are expensive though.

Let us know if you need any more help!

Best wishes