Hornby R.2020 Flying Scotsman With Service Sheet 204 missing Cable to Motor and Silver Gear slipping on shaft

[Deem]

This cable is missing from Tender I have ( I took the picture from eBay to show my fellow Modeller)

This is the gear slipping on Tender motor I have ( I took that picture from eBay to show my fellow Modeller)

I have searched on Google and also looked Hornby Forum to find the answer but nothing clear with link or part number to order part.

Any Help would be much appreciated.

Regards

[Tony57]

Hi

The short wire part number is X1193. It can also be made by using Two female spade fitting with a short piece of wire.

The gear is part number S2290 which is a 11 tooth brass gear.

Try Peter's Spares or New Modellers Shop for the parts.

[Potterton]

@Nadeem

With regards to the gear slipping, I had exactly the same problem with the gear slipping around the shaft, (to the extent that it actually fell off). I cured this simply with a drop of superglue gel to hold it in place. That was several months ago and I've had no trouble since, but note, it needed to be the Gel form of superglue.

[Simmo009]

The silver gear does not grip the shaft as well as the brass one (or so I have been told). A sudden stop can loosen the silver gear. Replace with an 11 tooth brass as detailed above. I had one do this to me a few weeks ago, just about to fix it.

[Going Spare]

The tender drive unit illustrated is considerably older than the unit that would have been in R2020 as it has fold-over brush retaining arms - they would be screw-on arms on R2020's drive and the lefthand screw provides the electrical contact between the brush arm and the motor casing, negating the need for the 'missing' bridge wire to be used.

[Flashbang]

You need to be a little cautious re the left hand silver brush strips connection! Ringfield motors had several means of connecting the left brush strip to the chassis and wheels.. Wire link, a "Pip" of metal touching the rear of the tab on the left hand strip and the final, the strip has a screw connecting it directly to the metal of the motor and wheels!

If the Pip is used, it seems as thought the wire link is missing, but there was never a wire! Of course if you are sure the wire link is missing, then either obtain a replacement. Make one from suitably sized spades and flexible wire, Or solder a wire in its place!

[Deem]

@Tony57

The short wire part number is X1193

The gear is part number S2290

 

 

Many Thans for the info and prompt respose.

Much Appriciated.

[Deem]

@Potterton

With regards to the gear slipping, I had exactly the same problem with the gear slipping around the shaft...........

 

 

Thanks for your help and I really appreciate your input, I used the Grollia Epoxy and used only on tiny amount, on the tip of the shaft, since yesterday it has been working fine but I have not tried under load ie coaches attached to Loco, I am waiting for Traction tyres to arrive so I can install new Traction tyres before using with load.

[Deem]

@Going Spare

The tender drive unit illustrated is considerably older than the unit that would have been in R2020..........

 

 

You are very right, now you pointed and I noticed the diffrence between the above picture motor and the one I have in my Tender.

How ever I don't know how to provide second contact to brushes for them to have the power.

Please see attached pictures.

I am waiting for some spade when they arrrive, I will make the sizeable cable and run the loco. If However any body else have any info please do share.

[Going Spare]

If the yellow cables are from a multimeter, use it to check continuity by placing one contact on the metal motor casing and the other on the lefthand brush arm screwhead. That screw should be making contact with the motor case.

If that is not the case, is there an opening in the plastic motor faceplate immediately behind the arm projecting sideways from the lefthand brush arm? If there is, there is probably a metal spigot in that recess cast as part of the motor case and the side arm of the brush arm can be tucked in the that recess to make contact with the spigot.

If either of these are successful, you do not need the bridge wire.

[Deem]

@Going Spare

 

 

Upon what you suggested and I opened the motor Face plate to check, as per your explanation,

Right side of the screw goes into Plastic Face plate

Left side of the screw, actually screws in the Metal chassis

After that I decided to clean the wheel one more time and yes the tender runs without any wire to chassis, just one wire from Loco to right side of the brush arm

Many thanks for your help, really appreciate the knowledge and expertise in this forum, not only fixing the issue but help in saving money and having wonderful time playing with Locos. thumbsupthumbsup

[Going Spare]

Good news! Thank you for reporting back.

[Deem]

Another question and I am looking answer from brilliant Fellow Modeller

I am getting 11.5 Ohm resistance with multi meter on Negative and Positive carbon spring plates, is that too high to install Decoder or ok?

Also Loco is getting roughly 195 mA on almost stand still and when moving 226 mA

[Deem]

I posted above pictures few days ago and have not heard any thing back,

Is it because I am in wrong section of Forum or everyone is busy for few days?

Any update will be much appreciated.

Regards

[Chrissaf]

Two possible reasons for lack of a response to your image post.

One, you posted it during a busy period where there was a flurry of new posts and your post dropped quickly down the rankings on the page.

Two, the above was compounded because you added it onto the end of a thread with a completely unrelated thread topic title. Therefore members did not realise that a new different question was being raised. They would have seen a familiar thread title and thought it was a historic post and not a new one. This is certainly why I didn't previously notice and see your image post before now.

In hindsight, as your question is a new question, it would have been better to raise a new thread with a new title that matched better with your question. Then members might have more readily noticed it.

For example a new thread with a title something like "Is this motor suitable for adding a DCC decoder".

NOTE If the question does indeed relate to fitting a DCC decoder. Then as well as being made in a new thread of its own, it should also be placed in the "Hornby DCC" forum, where DCC members can see it.

Just an observation, but it is not 100% clear from your image post as to what exactly your question is. Perhaps if you were to expand it with a little more detail. My suggested thread title is just my guess at what your query is about.

[Deem]

@Chrissaf

Thanks for detailed response and I will post in DCC section of the Forum to get quick response hopefully.

In the meantime as for your question "what kind of help I am looking for"

Resistance is showing 11.4 ohm when checked with multimter on steel braket which are above bushes

Stall current is second part of the question, when I checked with multimeter connecting the one wire of the meter in series, I am getting 195 mA and 226 mA when engine is moving.

I have seen the video's on youtube on how to check stall current but for some reason I don't get any reading when I follow youtube procedure for checking stall current with my multimeter. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

Any advice will be much appreciated.

[Chrissaf]

I can't comment on the YouTube stall current video as I have not seen it and you haven't provided a link. But if you navigate to the "Useful Links" sticky thread and follow the link for "Brian Lambert - Stall Current guide" then you will find an approved by forum stall current test procedure.

[ColinB]

It is interesting measuring the resistance of the motors, I do it when I convert a loco to DCC and I always find it to be too low. Even on modern Hornby locos I have measured about 12 ohms which seems incredible low. Unless you can measure it across the actual armature without going through the brushes, the "stall test" is the only way. Be careful though if you stall it too long you could damage the motor. As you are measuring 11.4 ohms, that says roughly your stall current should be about 1 amp, but in practice it is about 800 milliamps. I measured it on a lot of my ringfield motors. If you are going to add DCC I would recommend using a standard Zimo decoder, I have no financial interest in Zimo, but I tried loads of different decoders when I converted mine and these didn't blow up and worked really well.