Hornby R2675 Flying Scotsman DCC ready - need help wiring connection to PCB

[Deem]

Hello

I was trying to fix the sticky motor, gear and Valve Gear which is bent in few places, however wiring came of the PCB board, particularly the red wire from the PCB board, any help will be much appreciated.

Regards

[96RAF]

Top left hand diagram linked to below gives you the basic decoder socket wiring, noting that function 2 as labelled is not present on your socket. That is just a handy junction for the free end purple wire from the decoder.

https://www.strathpefferjunction.com/download/instructions-leaflet-for-dcc-adaptors-breakout-boards/?wpdmdl=15715&refresh=623192f2863111647416050

[morairamike]

Red goes to pin 8 which is diagonally opposite pin 4 which is black.

Pin 1 is orange and usual has an index mark. Motor right

Pin 2 is yellow. Rear light

Pin 3 not used

Pin 4 black. Track left

Pin 5 grey. Motor left

Pin 6 white. Front light

Pin 7 blue. Common +ve

Pin 8 red. Track right

96 got there before me.

[Deem]

@96RAF

@morairamike

Thanks for your input, correct me if I am wrong, both advises are decoder wiring. What I am looking for DCC ready only (without Decoder fitted only 8 pin PCB board ready for decoder to be installed on that PCB board) wiring diagram or specifically which point I need to installed or solder red wire.

Hopefully someone can guide me.

Regards

[Deem]

This is what I was looking for and hopefully it will help if anyone else need it as well. Hornby Part No X9084.

Regards

[96RAF]

@96RAF

@morairamike

Thanks for your input, correct me if I am wrong, both advises are decoder wiring. What I am looking for DCC ready only (without Decoder fitted only 8 pin PCB board ready for decoder to be installed on that PCB board) wiring diagram or specifically which point I need to installed or solder red wire.

Hopefully someone can guide me.

Regards

As previously stated by several folk you solder the red wire back onto pin 8 of the socket.

DCC-Ready means it has a socket fitted by the factory. All you need to do is remove the blanking plug and fit a decoder.

If you have a socket fitted and a wire is detached then solder it back on to its proper place.

If you do not have a socket installed then the one you have pictured is OK, just solder it in place according to the wiring code already explained.

You should be aware Hornby tends to use all black wiring to the socket in its locos so you need a multimeter to make sure you are connecting the correct wires to each pin.

[ColinB]

Ok, I think everyone is giving you the wrong answers. Looking at your loco you will have a red and black wire going to the pickups, so you should see these two wires disappear somewhere into chassis to the pickups, these two wires go to pins 4 and 8. I think red goes to 8 black goes to 4, if you are using DCC it doesn't matter anyway. If you have two black wires that go to the tender connector they also go on pins 4 and 8, but you must make sure that in this case that you get them the right way round or else you get a short so attach the tender and do a continuity check between wire to tender and wheel on tender and then wheel on loco. Either that or wire it up and if you get a short swap them round. You should see two black wires, or a red and black wire go to the motor. These go to pins 1 and 5. If the loco goes backwards when it should go forwards after you have attached the wires to 1 and 5, swap them over. It is easier to do this at the motor end. Finally check after you have wired up the socket that you don't have any shorts between pins, so check for fine traces of solder between tacks. These PCBs are horrible to solder to.

From what you say only the red wire has fell off so it goes to either pin 4 or 8, so check which one doesn't have two wires in it, or no wire at all (if you don't have tender pickups) and that is it.

[Fishmanoz]

Deem, all 3 answers you have are the same and all refer to your problem - socket wiring - not decoder wiring. The only differences are Rob and Mike have concentrated on your single loose wire, whereas Colin has given you the pin designations for the entire socket.

If you want to put all 3 answers in better context, go to the Useful Links sticky thread in the General forum, look up the Brian Lambert link, go to his DCC pages and check out his pin designations for 8-pin sockets.

[Deem]

Thanks everyone.

I installed the red wire to pin 8 on PCB board, everything seems to be working ok, loco is running in correct direction in DC mode. Tomorrow I will try to run the Loco with decoder to see if wiring is correct.

I checked the motor wires to which cables motor is getting power from with multimeter based on that I figures out the wiring layout.

Just wanted to say Thanks for all of you for your input and valuable time.

Regards

[Deem]

Picture of Part No X9084 seem to be not the correct part for this particular Locomotive, according to picture of part no X9084 red wire is in pin 4.

When I check my locomotive with multimeter 2 black wires going to motor are from one black on pin 4 and second black from pin 8.

As I can see pin 4 have 2 wires soldered (1st black wire going to chassis pickup and 2nd going to motor) so I figured that red needs to attach to pin 8 because second black wire from PCB to motor was from pin 8. Hopefully I am making sense here and everyone understand what I am trying to explain.

Regards

[96RAF]

The socket is a universal part. It is the wiring colours as pictured that is wrong, just swap it over to correct it to match the standard code. The loco has no idea what colour the wires are nor does it care.

These are probably parts that failed QC and were sold along the supply chain cheaply.

[ColinB]

Sorry what are you on about, looking at the photo that is a standard setup for a A3/A4 loco with the decoder in the loco, I have loads of them. I think on all of mine the red wire goes to pin 8. As to the socket, again it looks like all the ones on my locos. As I said in my earlier post you should have two wires from the loco pickups (red and black) and two wires that connect to the tender pickups via the drawbar (both black as red would be more noticeable on the drawbar). Generally the socket is standard although there are several different types depending on how the socket fits into the mounting posts. That is the right socket for that loco. Generally you have to worry about two things, the individual socket posts touching the chassis on the underside when screwed down, or whether you can screw the body on properly because the socket pushes the DCC plug too high.

[Deem]

@ColinB

You are correct the red wire does go to pin 8 in Hornby R2675 with 8 pin pcb board.

Part no X9084 picture I added yesterday to this forum is not compatible with Hornby R2675. According to part X9084 picture red wire is connected to pin 4.

[Deem]

@96RAF

Fair point that these parts are failed QC and someone must bought the lot to sell. Hence we seeing them online.

Retards

[Howbi]

@Deem,

The packs of X9084 I have purchased have not been pre-wired as shown on Hornby's parts page so the photo you posted of a pre-wired set is very misleading and obviously causing misunderstanding in this discussion.

[ColinB]

If you buy X9084 from Peters Spares or Lendons it does not come with any wires, if you order the latest and greatest X9084/T off New Modellers it comes with leads already attached, it is also a PCB with "plate through holes" and decent PCB tracks. Of course the person who wired it up doesn't make use of the "plated thro holes" just "tacking" on to the PCB rather than taking advantage of the mechanical strength added by soldering to the plated through hole. As to the photo, please why are you bothering. I don't know but I think just a pin description should be adequate. As I said in a previous post for DCC whether the red wire goes to pins 4 or 8 doesn't matter, what does matter is if the corresponding tender pickup wire goes to same pin.

[Deem]

@ColinB

Thanks for input and really appreciate.

Regards

[Deem]

I am aware this forum is for DCC but I am still struggling to find the fault which is causing Hornby R2675 Flying Scotsman loud squeaking sound when moving only in Forward direction,

I tried using the loco on rolling road, loco gets quite but I stop the Loco and restart the Loco sound is back,

removed the valve gear to eliminate any fault related to valve gear,

when no other wheel is not spinning, only centre wheel spinning own it own and same issue is present only in forward direction

which leaves me with either Idler gear or main gear is faulty or worse motor is faulty?

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Regards

[96RAF]

Sounds like it needs some directed lube. Try lifting the motor out of mesh and running it. That may give a clue as to if it is the gear train or a motor bearing at fault.

[Deem]

@96RAF

Thanks for your input.

I Looked at that first things few weeks back, Motor seem to run slower in REVERSE direction and faster in FORWARD direction, however in forward direction that's when the sound been is loudest.

I have checked the gears and all move freely and well lubricated as well.

Regards

[96RAF]

@deem

In that case I suspect the motor is on its way out. There have been reports of the clip that holds the magnet on some motors catching on the armature. It may be brush gear worn out due to constant one way running.

[ColinB]

If the clip in the, motor falls off believe me you know about it. Generally it doesn't work well for a little while, then it jams. 96RAF might be right it could be the motor. Check all the valve gear first though it could be catching somewhere. The cylinders quite often cause drag issues.

[Deem]

Thanks all for your help,

It does looks like motor is the culprit however when I removed the motor, tested with direct power there wasn't any sound either directions

After that check the gears to see any damage but none visible

Axle and bushes are well lubricated runs freely either directions

But once everything is connected that's when the sound is loud.

In that whole process valve gear was disconnected from wheels.

I will try tonight to test on rolling Road and record a video to show the issue.

Regards

[ColinB]

One thought remove the valve gear and just leave the con rods attached. Then see if it makes any noise.

[Deem]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eMWsdxWEAnOUJA0F2o4bP6diIkbohb3-/view?usp=sharing