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Help! would anyone know how to remove the six driving wheels on Mallard 60022


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The driving wheels are an interference push-fit on their axles rather than being screwed on. A wheel puller is required to remove the wheels. They are no doubt available on ebay or from G W Models. A vice would be required to refit them.

If you are dealing with a Chinese-made model, the wheels will be plastic with metal rims; if it is a UK model, the wheels will be metal, some with a plastic insulating bush between the wheel and the axle. If you choose any other method (inadvisable if you intend refitting the wheels), do not twist the wheels on their axle as the splines on the axle are likely to damage a plastic wheel. If refitting, replacement insulating bushes may be needed.

Why are you removing the wheels?

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@Malcolm

Unless you are are very experienced modeller I would avoid removing the wheels unless it's absolutely necessary. Apart from the wheels you've got the connecting rods and valve gear to remove, which can quickly turn into a messy tangle.

When re-assembling you will need to ensure that the wheels on each side are at the correct angle relative to each other and in the correct phase (when the con rods on the right side are at 12 o'clock those on the left should be at 9 o'clock.)

Take photos!

 

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Which model do you own, the R number would help.



you say “help! Would anyone know how to remove the six driving wheels on Mallard 60022.


so do you just want the wheels out the chassis?


But you then you mentioned unscrewing the centres of the wheels. Or do you want the wheels of the axles?


depanding on the exact model to remove the wheels from the chassis it’s a case of removal of the keeper plate and the wheels will drop out. But valve gear will need disconnecting (dependent on model How to do this) possible removal of bogies and trailer wheels.


wheels of the axle will need the above, plus a wheel puller. ( I suggest not to be attempted by anyone with limited experience in modelling) as many models end up on ebay as spares due to this.


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The driving wheels are an interference push-fit on their axles rather than being screwed on. A wheel puller is required to remove the wheels. They are no doubt available on ebay or from G W Models. A vice would be required to refit them.
If you are dealing with a Chinese-made model, the wheels will be plastic with metal rims; if it is a UK model, the wheels will be metal, some with a plastic insulating bush between the wheel and the axle. If you choose any other method (inadvisable if you intend refitting the wheels), do not twist the wheels on their axle as the splines on the axle are likely to damage a plastic wheel. If refitting, replacement insulating bushes may be needed.
Why are you removing the wheels?

Hi,many thanks for your reply,i purchased the loco from a sale. It's die cast body,motor looks new but 3 driving wheel have been replaced as they are loose and rock from side to side on the center axels,grey in appearance compared to the other side which are silver nickel maybe. Number on the base reads 20738 if thats any help. regards Malcolm

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Which model do you own, the R number would help.

you say “help! Would anyone know how to remove the six driving wheels on Mallard 60022.

so do you just want the wheels out the chassis?

But you then you mentioned unscrewing the centres of the wheels. Or do you want the wheels of the axles?

depanding on the exact model to remove the wheels from the chassis it’s a case of removal of the keeper plate and the wheels will drop out. But valve gear will need disconnecting (dependent on model How to do this) possible removal of bogies and trailer wheels.

wheels of the axle will need the above, plus a wheel puller. ( I suggest not to be attempted by anyone with limited experience in modelling) as many models end up on ebay as spares due to this.

Hi Many thanks for your reply.Regards Malcolm

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@Malcolm
Unless you are are very experienced modeller I would avoid removing the wheels unless it's absolutely necessary. Apart from the wheels you've got the connecting rods and valve gear to remove, which can quickly turn into a messy tangle.
When re-assembling you will need to ensure that the wheels on each side are at the correct angle relative to each other and in the correct phase (when the con rods on the right side are at 12 o'clock those on the left should be at 9 o'clock.)
Take photos!

Hi, Many thanks for your reply,will do. Regards Malcolm

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Which model do you own, the R number would help.

you say “help! Would anyone know how to remove the six driving wheels on Mallard 60022.

so do you just want the wheels out the chassis?

But you then you mentioned unscrewing the centres of the wheels. Or do you want the wheels of the axles?

depanding on the exact model to remove the wheels from the chassis it’s a case of removal of the keeper plate and the wheels will drop out. But valve gear will need disconnecting (dependent on model How to do this) possible removal of bogies and trailer wheels.

wheels of the axle will need the above, plus a wheel puller. ( I suggest not to be attempted by anyone with limited experience in modelling) as many models end up on ebay as spares due to this.

Hi, ok thanks for your reply,thats a great help.Regards Malcolm

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If it is a die cast body that implies Hornby Dublo (original) or Wrenn. Correct me if I am wrong but all the Hornby Mallards are plastic body. I generally remove the wheels with two small screwdrivers or buy one of those extractors on Amazon for model aircraft propellers. The extractor is a better method but you might need to do a bit of searching to get one that fits. The extractor will pull them off squarely meaning less damage.

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The baseplate part number 20738 confirms the loco to be Hornby-Dublo (or possibly Wrenn) but that number relates to the baseplate for the Duchess/City rather than the A4 - they may be interchangeable (unlikely, being given different part numbers), but this may be part of your problem.

All the driving wheels should be plated rather than grey metal.

When you say "rocking from side to side on the centre axle" do you mean the rocking is across the loco from side-to-side or along the loco such that, if the front wheels touch the rails, the rear ones do not, or a combination of the two effects? It sounds as if wrong size wheels have been fitted on one or more axles. Your description makes it sound as if the chassis has perhaps been made up from parts from different locos.

It may be possible to sort out but, if possible, I would be inclined to return it to the seller if it was sold to you without the defect being pointed out.

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I wouldn't be surprised if the A4 and Duchess shared the same chassis, I know that Hornby did this with some of their Ringfield based models. As to the part numbers, I don't know. I have a Hornby Dublo Duchess and a Wrenn A4, I will have a look. I am pretty sure the wheels are the same size between the two. I think they are also the same on a rebuilt Wrenn Merchant Navy. Could the person that presented this post give us some photographs.

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Before commiting to the expense of buying a wheel puller, find out what you need to make good the loco chassis and whether those parts can be obtained: the fact that the previous owner evidently fitted incorrect parts (wheels, axles, insulating bushes?) may indicate they are difficult to source.

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If the wheels are loose on their axles and they are the originals then you shouldn’t need a puller, they should come off easily as the insulators have probably disintegrated.

However, if they are a grey metal they may be old type Romford replacement wheels, is there a small nut in the centre of the wheel with a small slot on each side? They may simply need tightening if that is the case. You should use a proper Romford screwdriver but I have managed with a modified jeweller’s one in the past. A photo would tell us instantly. One benefit of the Romfords is that re-quartering the wheels is easy as they fit onto the square ends of the axles.

My worry if you do remove the wheels would be getting the valve gear back on afterwards accurately so that everything worked again. I agree with the earlier post, if this was sold to you as a working model send it back and get a refund.

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