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Power Track is garbage


david_watts1

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Controversial I know, but I say it like I see it. When first used it shorted out, just like a youtuber has already mentioned, it's poorly manufactured and needs to be adjusted. It doesn't allow enough clearance for Continental stock, they foul it. It has a suppression capacitor which stops the Gaugemaster HF2 (High Frequency track cleaning gadget) from working since there is always a circuit. My solution.........forum_image_63ab8c95ce6b1.png.46503c4520db60a616cae3efa1fedda3.pngI did replace the centre cover after filing it down to hide the connectors.

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Surely any make of power track connection that uses RF suppression components will similarly affect your electro-gizmo, which is why they are removed from DCC use as they affect the signal.

I presume Sharon on FB backs up this anonymous you-tubers claims, else all warranties are void.

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As I've commented on another thread, the design of the power feed track seems excessive and much larger than any equivalent N gauge item even going back to the chunky old track systems of the 60s and 70s.


I stopped using those electronic modules such as Relco and the GM HF2 unit decades ago, when locos started to contain more electronics. They were clever in the 70s, but to call them "track cleaners" is a misnomer in my opinion. What they do is create a high frequency / high voltage arc across dirt and air gaps over which the traction current can then flow. You still need to clean your track and wheels. They can cause pitting of wheels and are bad for electronics. They become less effective the more wiring joints and dodgy fishplate joints you have. Definitely cannot be used with DCC.

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I have found the most effective way of getting power to Hornby rails is to solder wires to the undersides of a couple of fishplates, one colour for the inside rail and another for the outside rail- that allows you to have more than one power feed without getting confused as to which side is which.

It also means that when the track is ballasted the power feeds become invisible.

Hope this is useful to someone.

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I have stopped using the HF2 unit just in case it does potentially damage modern electronics, or the wheels and track as it burns off the dirt. I too will solder the power feeds to the fishplates when I finally get around to building a permanent layout. Having said that, I still think they could have made the connection smaller and not interfere with continental stock. I suppose this is part of a starter set to get new people into the hobby, but within a small period of time, if you get hooked, you will bin this along with the controller and get better quality stuff.

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There is more comment than you can jump over on the forums concerning soldering droppers to fishplates versus soldering droppers to the rails with views supporting both.

So let me add my two penneth worth here - the major problem arising if only one or a few track connections are made is that good electrical continuity relies on fishplates connecting the rails and such fishplates can become loose and tarnished over time leading to high resistance connections and voltage drops on the far extremities of the layout.

Given that, why would you solder to the problem when you can just as easily solder directly to the rails.

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