Bristol Fighter - the same but different. Or, one man’s attempt at rigging.

[Dominic Thomas]

Having been inspired by null_null98’s recent Bristol Fighter, I thought I would look at the kit in the stash to see if it was worth a go.

Now, this kit had languished there for many years. In my mind, I remember thinking that as a very early Airfix release, it would not be worth the effort to try to build a satisfactory model from the available parts. I had already been bitten by the ancient Halifax from the early 60’s I think.

Anyway, it didn’t seem too bad on close inspection, so I set off to try to gather as many reference pix and rigging references as possible.

[Dominic Thomas]

The release I decided to use was the one shown below. It had just the one option for markings which was for 11 Squadron RFC. It is also possible to model aircraft from 5 Squadron RAF, 12 Squadron RFC, and 39 Squadron RAF depending on which Airfix release is chosen.

[null_null981707818191]

The best advice that I can offer, as a relative newbie to rigging (and it has been a very steep learning curve) is to decide when to stop sticking fragile bits on to the model which stick out and will inevitably get knocked off because of the amount of handling and twisting and turning required when rigging. And most - if not all - of the painting needs to be completed too. At that point, do all the decals as well, because otherwise applying them will risk messing up the rigging if it is extensive (control wires along the fuselage etc). Use the thinnest possible CA adhesive (it sets quicker) and get some vinyl extensions that slip on to the top of the CA bottle - much easier to deliver very precise amounts.

Best of luck!

[Dominic Thomas]

Null, [may I call you Null?],

That’s good advice, and of course, I’ve gathered some valuable help from your build of the Bristol Fighter - thank you.

Given that there has been some interest in rigging techniques, I thought I would show how I did it. I’m aware that there are other ways, and that people can get better results. My approach works for me, given that my first attempt was only 3-4 months ago.

So, start with the tools. I use these: a very small drill bit, a pair of long nose tweezers, and a very sharp pair of small scissors. I use a superglue gel as it doesn’t flow to places I don’t want it to go, and it cures fast enough without an accelerant.

[Dominic Thomas]

My first step was to see which photos were available on the internet, preferably period photos, but also ones of replicas and preserved aircraft. Then I checked for kit instructions from the manufacturers of respective 1/32nd or 1/48th kits as they tend to feature rigging diagrams.

Following these, drilling started.

The upper wing had the majority of holes ‘half drilled’, just to act as location points for the rigging. The lower wing featured holes drilled all the way through.

I do it this way because I locate the ‘wire’ under the top wing, then once it’s set in place, it’s pulled through the lower wing and secured in place.

[Dominic Thomas]

I then assembled the fuselage and lower wing, which allowed me to start rigging with the addition of the aileron control wires.

Here was my first mistake : I decided to use AK Thin for bracing wires and Infini Fine for the control wires. Of course, I used AK thin for this first set, which now looks just wrong. For this first attempt, I’ll just put it down to a lesson learnt.

Anyway, the reason for placing this particular wire first was that it had to be just above the ‘toggle’ for the elevator control wires. I wanted to get this area done early as it would be difficult to do when the upper wing was on.

The second photo shows how the thread/wire was secured with blue tack to keep tension on the wire while super glue was spotted on the upper surface of the wing. I’ll explain more later.

[Hurricane Boy]

Thanks for sharing the pictures Dominic and providing the commentary. I have a few biplanes in the stash, so I will be following this one for sure.

Looks good so far.

Tim

[Dominic Thomas]

The story so far - I had written the next instalment and added the first of 2 pix when it all disappeared. I don’t know if it’s gone to be checked or disappeared completely. Anyway, here’s another go…..

While this may look like a random assembly of parts, there is method in the madness. The fuselage was assembled, painted, varnished, and the markings applied. This let me add the pre-painted exhaust pipe, as it lay over the markings. Having all this in place allowed me to add the Infini 1/48 Aero Black Rigging Fine. Now this stuff is a lot finer [at 0.082mm] than the AK Thin, so I am using it for the control wires. It stretches from the home-made control horns to the elevators, crossing over part way.

Having then installed the upper wing, I decided to rig the outer bay and the struts. The first step was to glue the pre cut lengths of thread to the respective predrilled half-holes in the top wing. Once dry, the free ends were threaded through the respective holes on the bottom wing. This can be a time consuming operation as the hole has to be clear of paint and glue, and there has to be sufficient light to allow me to find it.

Once through the holes, the threads are pulled to put some tension on the parts between the wings, and then held in place by blue tack on the bottom of the lower wing. This allowed me to spot some superglue gel on the hole on the top side of the lower wing, and allow it to cure in its own time fixing the thread in place.

The good thing about superglue gel is that it doesn’t [so far] flow through the hole to the bottom of the wing. This is good because once the glue has set, I then remove the blue tack, pull the free piece of thread taut as much as it will go [gently], then cut it with the sharp scissors as near to the hole as possible. The thread then recoils into the hole, which can be filled with plastic putty, smoothed over and painted leaving no trace.

The two pictures will follow.

[Ratch]

Nothing awaiting approval Dominic

[Dominic Thomas]

I’ll resubmit Ratch. Must be my end.

[Ratch]

Every thickness in modelling is too thick. Think about it. Fuselage walls are not a foot thick in reality, but that's about what they are in 1/72. it's no wonder that cockpit interiors were scant 60 years ago, because they didn't have the technology to make scale interiors. Whatever we do in modelling is a compromise, an illusion to look like the real thing in miniature.

[Dominic Thomas]

Grumps,

Very good question.

I started with AK Thin because that’s what I could get hold of in the model shop.

I will admit that it looked thick. I then found the Infini 0.082mm referred to above, which was much thinner.

I have to say that because I am new to this rigging lark, I probably don’t have the correct thicknesses, BUT as I’ve managed to rig a plane for the first time in 2022 since I started in the 1960’s, I like to be able to see that the plane has rigging.

Now I tend to focus on 1/72 aircraft. And I think you are correct in that at this scale, appropriate sized rigging may be too small to see unless close up. Even my thin Infini rigging is labelled as 1/48 rigging.

So, we are back to the situation which has been discussed here many times - as long as the person building the plane is satisfied, why worry.

Hope that helps.

[SD45elect2000]

The wires I e actually seen on Stearman was surprisingly big. The US planes had an oval section and was not thin little wires.

Randall

[Dominic Thomas]

These are the two photos of the outer bay rigging….

A. Securing the threads on the underside of the upper wing…

B. Pulling taut and fixing with blue tack under the lower wing…

C. Cutting off the excess, prior to filling and painting of the lower wing underside will have to wait forT

[Dominic Thomas]

For me [and I repeat, being new to rigging], it’s enough to make the distinction, in 1/72, between bracing and control wires. The bracing should be expected to be thicker, and I am happy with the two makes I have on the go at the moment.

Just waiting to see if the second post with 2 pix has made it to moderation.

[Dominic Thomas]

Good, two pix loaded. Now for the third.

This is the starboard outer bay with all bracing wires in place and tensioned, with the excess removed as explained above.

Now for the rest which will be essentially a repeat of what has just been completed.

Stay tuned, please.

[Hurricane Boy]

Dominic

I think your model looks very good and a really like your method.

OK…so if I do get around to building that Swordfish, or Bristol Fighter or Camel in the stash, I will be using your method.

I best get an assortment of the elasticized thread, just in case!

Tim

[SD45elect2000]

The Swordfish has a etched rigging kit by SBS models. It looks like a nice kit for the Airfix model.

I do have it and is so where in the group of kits to build soon.

Randall

[Dominic Thomas]

Thanks for your comments and interest guys.

I have never tried the etched rigging kits, but have one in the store, so one day….

I will say about the method I use that if I make a mistake, in the majority of cases I can remove the problem thread, redrill the hole [if necessary] and start again.

In my much earlier attempts with stretched sprue, it was not so easy to start again, although it was possible.

The model needs a wing strut and the cabane struts adding before rigging resumes. It is my intention to use stretched sprue for the cabane rigging as I have found in this case it’s easier to fit small lengths in this area. So it will be a little while before further updates I guess.

[AirportsEd]

I think rigging biplanes has to be one of the toughest skills to learn, so I will watch with interest!

Good luck!

[Dominic Thomas]

Thanks for your encouragement guys.

I added the struts last night. It’s not worth a picture as the cabane struts make the top wing look off-centre yet the wings line up and the wing struts are vertical in a frontal view. Oh dear.

I have to say that this rigging method is the one I use. I can’t claim it as my invention because the Internet is a big place. I just haven’t seen references to it so far. If anyone uses this approach, I hope you get the satisfaction I do.

Dominic

[Dominic Thomas]

Made some progress, thankfully, It’s still not finished, but I wanted to show what state the model was in since I had completed bracing rigging of the wings along with control wires for the elevators.

A point had been made on another post of the need for a lot of handling. You should be able to see in these pix that the paint on the leading edges of the wing has been worn away. In addition, the blue tack has removed some of the paint on the underside of one wing. In the photo of the underside, you should also be able to see that most of the holes on the right side of the photo have been filled, but I have yet to do that on the left. Therefore, the worn paint is not too much of an issue.

I still have to add another bracing wire to the tailplane, bracing for the undercarriage, control wires for the ailerons, add the bumper bars under the wings, and improve/replace the kit supplied Scarff ring in the rear cockpit.

Thanks for watching.

Note also the difference in thickness of the tyres in the kit-supplied items. This will only annoy me if I look at the model from head-on, which will be rarely

[Dominic Thomas]

Some progress. Finished the bracing wires between the wings and the control wires for the elevators. A bracing wire around the tailplane also done. Doing all this required a lot of handling which wore away the paint on the leading edges, as did removal of blue tack under the wings. This wasn’t an issue because having cut away the excess thread as discussed, the holes were filled and a coat of paint is now required for upper and undersurfaces.

Still to do then, undercarriage bracing, a second tailplane bracing wire, and the replacement Scarff remounting for the rear gun. Once the wings have been painted and varnished, the wing rounders can be applied. This will then allow me to fit the aileron control horns and then the control wires.

Notice that the kit-supplied wheels/tyres are not the same thickness. Unless I look straight at the model, I won’t notice, so this is the last time I’ll mention them.

Anyway, pix…..

[Dominic Thomas]

[SD45elect2000]

I think it looks outstanding ! I do have some Gladiators to do...

I have a TON of US prewar between war bi planes to do as well.

Randall