GMD Posted June 20 Share Posted June 20 @Dave the Busker Just keep on going a little further north and west and you can stop in for a cuppa! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 20 Author Share Posted June 20 Barely get time to stop at all on this jaunt, it was a really last minute booking to play the Sound Of Iona festival and to fit it in I'm pretty much going up, playing, and heading for the train home. Hopefully if I'm booked again next year I'll get a chance to actually spend some time there 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie 66 Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 On 18/06/2024 at 22:04, ukpetey said: @Dave the Busker Wow! I’ve just read all 14 pages and watched your videos. Amazing progress, thanks so much for sharing everything. I’ve already got loads of bookmarks saved and even placed an order from Moor View Models for some 3D printed figures. Like most of us I suspect, I had a Hornby train set as a child (50 years ago) and more recently with my own son. But never had a model layout. As I approach 60 and find myself with a little disposable income and a little more free time, I have been thinking about what hobby I might take up Then I saw TT:120 advertised, and I knew at that moment that it was the sweet spot between N and OO and would be my next hobby, the one to take me into and beyond retirement. I have spent every free moment for weeks watching videos and looking at websites. I’m excited. All I have to do now is convince my Mrs that we do indeed have room for a baseboard, even if it lives in the spare room propped against the wall. I have just joined this forum, and wanted to thank you for the inspiration, everything you have posted has been so useful. I have literally nothing: I’m right at the start. My Moor View Models purchase for £20 of figures, is my first purchase in my new hobby. Just so I can say, I have started. I am excited to be here, and will happily participate in the forum actively. Hollybush has really fired my imagination…. Welcome @ukpetey, like you I'm approaching 60 and had a set in the 70's. I started from scratch this year and have learnt a huge amount over the last 5 months (see thread Sanctuary Junction). Enjoy, but beware damage to bank account 😄 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Just back from playing the Sound Of Iona music festival. I remember seeing posts a wee while back about the Crofter's Cottage building seeming a bit small, and having talked about using doorways on Metcalfe N scale kits to judge how realistic the size was... Here's a photo of me standing in front of the door of a real life cottage on the island of Iona... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 Dave, you need to accept you are out of scale 😁 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 In the tent I was given a loan of for the festival, never mind TT, I felt like an 00 man in an N world. The designers of one man tents never seemed to consider the existence of anyone over 6 foot 😂 1 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 My 08's just died. Running totally fine in the shunting yard where it's never had a problem, in an area that's totally electrically isolated from all other lines by a physical gap cut in the tracks where it joins the mainline. It was running, then it just stopped and now nothing at all. I'm at a total loss as to why this keeps happening. I cannot see a single fault on the track anywhere, other locos will still power up on that track. What am I doing wrong? I'm at the end of my tether with these breakdowns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 You've had some bad experiences Dave. Mine did the same recently, whilst I was fiddling about with it, but turned out to be the spring loaded contacts. Take off the base plate, and put two power wires directly to the contacts to see if the motor is fine. Not likely but worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 Thanks for the suggestion, sadly no response from the motor trying it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 If you're confident enough in dismantling, you can take off the body and then the plastic motor housing, and pull out the motor. It has two plastic sleeves covering the wires, which can be gently pulled back to expose the contacts. Apply power directly to the motor contacts. If there is nothing then the rest of the loco is fine - it's the motor that has gone (again!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 How does the motor housing come off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 If you tae the body off, then you can gently pull back the 6-pin blanking plate away from its housing. If I remember correctly, there are then two screws on either side of the upper support for the dcc socket. Unscrew these and the combined upper motor housing and dcc housing should come away. Can't remember for certain but if there is another screw it was fairly evident. Then the motor is simply snug fit into the bottom housing, and can be prised upwards, not too much in case you strain the wires. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 This is (of course!) the bit I didn't film last week when doing the uncoupling video... 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 I've taken it apart as much as I dare but still getting no power from it, off to phone Hornby again. I just don't understand what's going on at all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 The only thing I can think of that all the faults have had in common is that they've been on A1, A4 or 08. I've never had a fault with the HST. I've only had motors fail when they've been the 3 pole ones, the 5 pole (touch wood) has never had an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMD Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Thats gutting Dave - thankfully we know that Hornby have been great at helping out their customers. Let us know how it goes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 @Dave the Busker - I had a similar issue recently with my Class 08. It looked to me like the wipers had twisted and where impacting wheel rotation. I sent it to Hornby who changed the chassis. There was no indication of the issue. R- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 Hope yours is running fine now. The wipers on mine are fine, wheels rotating freely when I'd tried to take it apart to see if there was anything wrong inside. As far as I can tell it looks to be the motor in mine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 Given that I'm running DC should I be avoiding running a shunter too slow? I want it to look reasonably realistic but could this be affecting the motor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 As it’s modern controller Dave whatever speed setting should play nicely. The old HM Duette we had years ago had a half wave setting that gave super slow speed control but was I think not ideal even for old motors, I was told it could ‘pitt’ the windings on motors, how true that was I am not sure. I doubt your new controller even has that feature. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB51 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 17 minutes ago, Dave the Busker said: Hope yours is running fine now It runs fine on a 9V battery. I’m waiting for the 6 pin TXS Decoder before running DCC. R- 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Fox 17 Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 1 hour ago, Dave the Busker said: Given that I'm running DC should I be avoiding running a shunter too slow? I want it to look reasonably realistic but could this be affecting the motor? As Matt says, slow running should not affect it. Again as Matt mentioned some old controller had half wave/full wave switching, some had feed back, some others had other things mentioned for slow running. No idea if they were the same but I always kept away from anything that had added features. The Duette's that did I blocked the switches so they could not be moved. Keep everything simple, which, is why I have stayed with DC analogue too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the Busker Posted June 25 Author Share Posted June 25 I'm using a Morley Vortrak that says it's good for slow running, but it doesn't have anything like half wave or feedback settings. The Gaugemaster Q I was using before didn't have any extra features. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Dave the Busker said: I'm using a Morley Vortrak that says it's good for slow running, but it doesn't have anything like half wave or feedback settings. The Gaugemaster Q I was using before didn't have any extra features. Half-Wave (as on the old H&M controllers) does slow things down but makes most motors really growl. Only good for 60 year old motors. PWM is the modern equivalent "pulse power" for slow running. Feedback is on top of PWM (it uses the gaps in the pulses to measure the motor back-EMF). It's more for load compensation constant speed up hill and down dale, not for slow running. If the feedback circuit isn't tuned to suit the motor it can lead to worse running than simple PWM. Again coreless motors can cause problems because they don't generate the same level of back-EMF as iron cored motors. Morley controllers make a selling point of no PWM, no feedback, and are ok with coreless motors. So they must be just a good pure variable DC controller. I'm pretty sure the Gaugemaster Q controllers are also pure DC (they do offer a couple of designs of feedback controller). Edited June 25 by ntpntpntp typo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallymatt Posted June 25 Share Posted June 25 Thanks for a more detailed explanation than I got of eldest brother many years ago. I think he just didn’t want me to fry motors in his locos 😁 I am very puzzled by the issues Dave continues to have. I’ve seen his running sessions and they are never flat out which does tend to wear motors much more quickly. @Dave the Busker I know you said the building had been re-wired recently, did anyone look into if there is some issue there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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