Coupler Options

[Singer33]

Has anyone found a good alternative to the Hornby TT120 decoupler?

I have just two sidings where shunting will take place, currently fitted with the decoupler. My problem is that unfortunately they just aren't very reliable, sometimes they couplers don't lift sufficiently, even a millimeter will prevent decoupling.

Plus once ballasted, they look a bit out of place.

Added to manually operating them, I feel I might as well just use a flat head screwdriver!

Unless anyone has come up with a good idea for an alternative?

[Rallymatt]

I use a combination of a magnetic flat head screwdriver (where there is the space) or a very very cheap artists spatula (from The Works) on closer coupling vehicles. Track based uncouplers are rarely where you actually need them

[Too Tall]

I 3D printed a tool, but TBH a lolly stick or screwdriver should work just as well.

[Hobby11]

Has anyone tried converting them to magnetic working, similar to this 009 version? It might be possible and the magnets are virtually invisible.

http://michaelsrailways.blogspot.com/2021/02/magnetic-uncoupling-with-standard-009.html

[ntpntpntp]

That sort of magnetic action is best with electromagnets rather than permanent magnets. You also have to beware of stock having ferrous metal wheels and axles as they may be drawn to the magnet!

To be honest even with magnetic uncoupling there's still the problem of the uncoupling happening in one place. some coupling systems have the concept of "pre-uncoupling" where you disconnect at the magnet or ramp then continue to push the stock into position without it re-connecting. Some of the US knuckle style couplers work this way.

Personally I just stick to using a dentist's probe tool to lift the hooks and uncouple where needed. Works with my N and my TT:120 models.

[Rallymatt]

If you want to uncouple for shunting/marshalling permanent magnets are not practical. TT couplings are much closer coupling than OO so that is one advantage that’s not fully realised with magnets. On long trains, the weight or resistance (imagine a rake of TT:120 tankers!) the magnets are not strong enough to stay connected. Maybe some prefer the look.

[Brew Man]

I am about to start experimenting with servo-controlled uncouplers which is based on the Heathcote offering. I have high hopes as those that I've tried so far, including Hornby and Gaugemaster have been very hit and miss.

[Peachy]

Has anyone found a good alternative to the Hornby TT120 decoupler?

 

 

Ive had a look at some alternatives here;

 

 

 

 

I’m rather taken with the Dapol N gauge system as these actually look more scale correct in 1:120.

The fact you can decouple at the start of your sidings then push your wagons into place with clever electronics or the hand of God I think definitely outweigh the cost.

[Rallymatt]

I tried the Dapol EasiShunts when I first started HighFell, it wasn’t a great success. They seem sloppy in the NEM pockets of both Piko and Arnold TT models (Hornby TT:120 wasn’t available at time) and the coupling was drooping so the metal tail caught on points. I messed about for quite a while and decided it wasn’t worth it. I think the kinematic parts move too much with the extra weight. The promise was exciting but reality was less so. I sold them on.

[Peachy]

I tried the Dapol EasiShunts when I first started HighFell, it wasn’t a great success. They seem sloppy in the NEM pockets of both Piko and Arnold TT models (Hornby TT:120 wasn’t available at time) and the coupling was drooping so the metal tail caught on points. I messed about for quite a while and decided it wasn’t worth it. I think the kinematic parts move too much with the extra weight. The promise was exciting but reality was less so. I sold them on.

 

 

I’ve fortunately not had that problem so far, but I’ll keep an eye out for it. (Dropping and catching points)

[Too Tall]

Another downside to the Hornby I have found ... thay are not keen on coupling on corners, do the Dapols do that OK Peachy ?

What length did you use, the short would look better but how do wagons and coaches deal with corners of R2 or even R1 ?

[Peachy]

Another downside to the Hornby I have found ... thay are not keen on coupling on corners, do the Dapols do that OK Peachy ?

What length did you use, the short would look better but how do wagons and coaches deal with corners of R2 or even R1 ?

 

 

No the Dapol ones also need ideally ti be on the straight although if the couplings aren’t exactly opposite each other they are a little more forgiving than Hornby’s.

As for length I’ve gone with the medium arm, although I might have a go with the short.

[Silver Fox 17]

The Dapol ones are marginally better in some respects to the Hornby ones but worse in other respects.

They are a very poor copy of the Kadee ones which are excellent but no fitting for Hornby 120 as yet.

The operating pin needs to be pushed up practically to the coupler otherwise it fouls point blades, the spring easily pops off somewhere never to be seen again, the spring is a lot weaker than Kadee and does not always give enough tension to keep couplings together.

The couplings can droop and even on the straight do not always couple up (possibly as RM says due to the Kinematic design.

I have some stock fitted with them but not impressed.

Many people never liked Tri-ang tension lock metal couplings but they are far better than anything else ever marketed.