Jump to content

Help!! Can my Valiant be saved?


Casper1707821699

Recommended Posts

Hi all.


Three days ago (Tuesday) I used some Humbrol Poly Cement I had spare from an old starter set kit to secure the ballast weight in the nose cone of the 1:72 Valiant.


The next day I mated the two fuselage halves together and in doing so I noticed the area where I used the Poly Cement was very soft!

It has damaged the outer skin of the fuselage, clearly visible in the photo and has ruined the model unless there is a way to repair this?


First thing I'm thinking is to use Plastic Putty Filler but then I'm thinking it will all crumble off once I start sanding it down as there isn't a hole for it to latch to and secondly, maybe cut out the damaged section and use plastic card but then I don't think I'll ever get the correct curvature...


The photos shows the glue I used and also the damaged nose cone area. It is still soft to touch this morning, surely the glue should of cured by now?

Am I better off to just leave it alone for a good week or so then try repairing?


Maybe I used too much glue? But being a Humbrol product I didn't think it would cause any issues...forum_image_64f1735dddce8.thumb.png.a17c8ab651055728a1470b27c228f342.pngforum_image_64f17369368d1.thumb.png.c710d55c7e3a797949baa9c653bcb0e1.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Casper, you have learned the hard way that polystyrene cement works by melting the plastic to weld the joints together. This is true of all polystyrene cements and is why it should be used sparingly. To fix nose weights use PVA wood glue, which will not affect the model but will fix the weights.

Now, can the nose be restored? Yes! But it won't be easy. You might try a two-part filler such as Milliput. Once it has set it can be filed and sanded to shape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a big problem. Easily solvable.


I would let the plastic harden again. It will take a few days. Then when it is no longer soft but has hardened completely, roughen it with rough grade sandpaper to provide a key for the body putty. When than in turn has hardened completely you can sand it back to the correct shape.


Make sure the plastic has hardened before you start the above operation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input guys.. so happy to hear it can be rectified!


My normal glue I use, except on clear parts, is the Humbrol Liquid Poly (picture attached) so was kind of expecting more of less the same results, however that in the little tube does appear to be a thicker glue... more than likely my issue is down to using too much!!


I will leave it alone for a good week before making a 'key' on the affected area...


I have in the past added sprue plastic to the glue (pictured) to use a filler... I wonder if that will be a better option than Plastic Putty?? My thinking is that it should dry harder??forum_image_64f31a2e8e44c.thumb.png.81ad3beac1385bd93d070d8908c0aed4.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liquid Poly still works by melting (welding) the plastic together. You may not have had the problem because less was applied.

 

 

Yes, I have clearly been a master of my own downfall and used an excessive amount... it is starting to harden up now so once fully hardened I can start the repair process. Luckily that lower nose section has minimal panel lines that will need re-scribing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok... current state of play.


Once the damaged nose cone was completely hard again I sanded down the affected area and also used my craft knife to create a criss-cross pattern 'key' to ensure the Plastic Putty bonded properly.


I gave the Plastic Putty a good couple of days to completely harden off and this morning it was sanded. A few 'potholes' have appeared but that's not a problem as I've now just added some more Plastic Putty which will be sanded back down in once fully hardened.


I am so happy that the nose cone now appears to be back to its normal curvature! Once the Plastic Putty and sanding job is done it should then be ready for some Grey Primer to help me see better where the panel lines will need to be re-scribed.


Thanks for the tips Ratch & Sailorman, much appreciated! 👍☺️forum_image_64fda6631fb4a.thumb.png.5d059851a919e482060af30bc1ef39bc.pngforum_image_64fda66c5b81d.thumb.png.19aa7bd8b9773e4429a7c680e4591506.png


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, after completing the painting stage and now a coat of Gloss Varnish has been applied ready for the decal application, I am well happy with how the nose cone repair looks.

Obviously I know it's not 100% perfect and my builds never will be, but I definitely can't really tell any damage had occurred!


Few sessions applying the mass of small decals (always a bore in my opinion, but they do look good once done) then a coat of Satin Varnish to tone the Gloss down then I'm calling this one done 👌


forum_image_6510171e28193.thumb.png.5372d64df71a6e04a2a4449f936aea81.pngforum_image_6510172569d62.thumb.png.fb331c6c188386ee00b821fedfbecd23.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
×
  • Create New...