Best paint for loco bodies

[Brew Man]

I mentioned in the Latest Acquisitions thread that I'd recently purchased a R1 loco body from CDC Models. Well I've also purchased some water slide transfers from Fox to decorate it with. The instructions say that best results are obtained by applying to a gloss surface and the surface of my R1 is definitely matt. So my question is, if I were to paint the model gloss what would be the best paint to use? Also, I don't think I would want it startlingly gloss, more towards satin I think. I suppose another question would be, would those who have used water slide transfers think it worth bothering to paint it at all?

Thanks for any pointers.

[atom3624]

Best finish I've got is using this.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274811108471

I've tried Humbrol Enamel and Acrylic and had problems.

I always GENTLY warm both first - paint and body (I didn't say hot) and obviously shake very well.

Multiple layers and a lot of patience required - avoid runs.

Al.

[Brew Man]

Thanks Al, address noted.

[threelink]

Waterslides on a matt surface will show a "fogged" appearance because of microscopic air bubbles trapped under the waterslide, hence the need for a gloss surface. Rather than repaint an entire loco I have had success in gloss varnishing the area to which the waterslides are to be affixed and then matt varnishing over them - sometimes this involves matt varnishing an entire panel or even the entire loco to achieve a satisfactory appearance but it might be worth trying before committing to a complete repaint. Best of luck in your endeavour.

[Kim-344602]

Having painted a great many locos, my favoured paints are Phoenix Precision but the Railmatch ones from Howes are also good. I tend very much to avoid the generic spray cans as in most cases they deliver far too much paint/varnish. I will only use the primers and sometimes Halfords satin or matt black.

It depends to a certain extent which Fox transfers you are applying. Most numbering and lettering ones are quite happy over a satin surface but if worried, give the model a very light coat of gloss varnish before applying them. Once dry, give the model a light coat of satin varnish.

[Kim-344602]

As a matter of interest, this is a Hornby model I did recently.

[Brew Man]

Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions. I'm liking the idea of varnish rather than paint. I like Threelink's idea of gloss first, then bringing it back to matt after the transfers are applied. I think if I did that I'd spray the whole loco before, then again after to ensure there are no patches.

[Rana Temporia]

Don’t use Tamaya acrylics. Easily the worst model paint/varnish available.

[Brew Man]

Thanks for the tip, RT. I've ordered a can of Clear Gloss as per Al's link above. I might get a can of the matt as well for over spraying post-transfers.

[atom3624]

Possibly just me, but I've had all manner of problems with transfers when name / number changing and trying to lacquer over to seal.

I have separate little pots of Railtec Matt, Satin and Gloss to carefully / lightly brush over.

So far it seems to work very well.

It's the same lacquer I've used on my Turbomotive crimson lake paint on the cab roof, to give a better match to the metal body - it's not perfect, but is miles better than the dull plastic as it arrives.

If you've a 'basher body' as we used to call them in R/Control circles - one you don't care what happens to it - I would do a few tests with this before the actual model.

Al.

[threelink]

If using acrylic varnish do allow plenty of drying time before applying the waterslides - being water based the acrylic does not like being wetted unless it is completely dry. Gentle use of a hair dryer might speed things up a bit. Let us know how you get on.

[ellocoloco]

BM. I know your not doing a complete repaint but this youtube video

was what gave me the confidence to strip and respray a model. Well worth a watch while the weather is like it is.

[Brew Man]

@ellocoloco

Thanks for that, I'll have a look later. I may or may not be doing a total respray. If I can mask the rest of the body off well enough I may just do the tanks.

[Rallymatt]

I’m presuming the transfer instructions suggest a gloss body to hide the edge of the carrier on the transfer, if that’s the case, Humbrol Transfer Fix is great for making that clear part of transfer disappear.

[SteveM6]

I’m a bit late to this thread but in my experience of a good few renumbers, repaint and total livery changes, my preferred method is to complete all or any colour painting (Howe’s Railmatch acrylics).

Once that is completely dry (I leave it at least 24 hours) I will airbrush Vallejo gloss varnish onto the bits that will have transfers, which is not necessarily the whole loco.

After applying the transfers (again allow plenty of drying time), an all over coat of Vallejo satin varnish prior to any weathering being done.

[Brew Man]

Thanks, Steve and RM. It just highlights the many ways you can skin a cat.

[ntpntpntp]

Just to add another option into the mix: I have a set of the Microscale varnishes and decal solutions which I use for commercial and also homebrew decals made using an ancient ALPS Microdry printer.

Micro Gloss varnish first. After fully drying then apply the decal using Micro Set and/or Micro Sol (if the decal needs to settle over an uneven surface). Finally a light overspray of Micro Satin or Micro Flat varnish depending on the final finish you want.

[Kim-344602]

I’m presuming the transfer instructions suggest a gloss body to hide the edge of the carrier on the transfer, if that’s the case, Humbrol Transfer Fix is great for making that clear part of transfer disappear.

 

 

It's not about the edges of the transfer but the "whole thing". Matt paint appears matt because it has a slightly rough surface which scatters the light reflection. Gloss paint has a much smoother surface and so gives a reflection rather than scattering. A classic way to make enamel or even acrylic paint more matt is to add talcum powder the get the rougher surface.

If you apply transfers to a matt ie rough surface, you will have very small air pockets underneath which can be seen. It can often be dealt with by using Microsol and Microset which will soften the transfer and make it contour better.

Not so bad when using solid colour transfers but it is very obvious if there is clear film say between letters or numbers.

 

 

[81F]

After applying the decal/transfer. Make sure these are thoroughly dry before applying any varnish (possibly a couple of days) as any damp can cause matt varnish to "bloom" (go white).

[Brew Man]

@81F

Thanks for the tip, I'll make sure to follow your advice.