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Hornby R2273 B17 ringfield type 5 removal from chassis


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Hello

I have bought non runner Hornby R2273 B12 in green livery, loco is in very good condition. I am trying to remove the motor so I can clean front and rear pickups, also remove excessive oil in the area and middle axle seem to have issue because one wheel of middle axle is loose or not connected to axle.

 

Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

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Edited by 96RAF
Class changed in title from B12 to B17 at OP request
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I'd have thought the tender underframe moulding is removable - screws and/or lugs/clips?   It's clearly a separate plastic piece that should drop away to gain better access to the motor block.
Once the block is free the motor cover plate is a clip fit to the block if I remember correctly, the whole thing can be removed to clean the commutator segments. You might want to remove the springs and brushes first. 
I'm pretty sure the middle wheels are only on stub axles so they may well seem a little loose.
 

Edited by ntpntpntp
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The loco is actually a B17 with LNER standard group tender, the B12 having always been loco-drive because of the short-wheelbase GE-section tender.  The motor block has a transverse lug at the rear.  As you have removed the securing screw from the underside of the metal tender chassis frame but the front end of the block will not release, introduce a thin screwdriver blade between the rear of the motor block and the chassis frame and gently lever the lug out of the recess in the chassis frame.  As ntpntpntp says, the centre wheels run on stub axles and often appear too loose but should not cause any problems.  

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Thanks GS, good observation.  It is B17/4 locomotive.

If one of moderator can change the title from B12 to B17 please.

Also initially I thought the same to use thin screw driver to release the motor from chassis, but the thinest screwdriver is not usable. Picture 1 have the tab which need to be moved but my smallest screwdriver won't fit in this. I will try again and maybe I get lucky. 20240626_151236.thumb.jpg.3332fb078ed2a6273b15a77001495f0e.jpg20240626_151250.thumb.jpg.764e4aa542efa1786a2e1e7b86a2fb09.jpg

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I tend to use something like a Stanley Knife - preferably with an old blunt blade fitted.  Thinner and easier to get into the cracks between the parts.  Old scalpel blade is another option, depends which I find first and how much force is needed 🙂 

Edited by ntpntpntp
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From the marks on the lug you appear to be working from below.  Can you get more leverage from above?  Within reason, don't worry about the force you have to use as you can't harm the motor block and there is very little 'give' in the fairly substantial metal chassis frame.  I doubt whether knife blades will be substantial enough.  

Are all the tender wheels the same diameter?  It may be a trick of the light but the centre wheel on the non-tyred side looks small.

Edited by Going Spare
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Posted (edited)

I don't know how, but the motor came out from the front of the tender, where tender hookup with loco, there is an angle which allow to motor slide out along with hook. I have cleaned the wheels, cleaned the armature, remove all the excessive oil, put tiny amount of grease where gear sits on chassis, oil have been used,  front and rear axle with just a drop off oil on each side. Reassemble the tender, and everything fit back without an issue.

Loco front pony wheels has some kind of black gunk which won't come off with isopropyl so I had to use the decent screwdriver which could remove the gunk but don't damage the wheels. After I used isopropyl again to to make sure wheels are fully cleaned.

Just tested the loco and it seem to be working much better now..

Edited by Deem
  • Like 1
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For some unknown reason, the video can be seen from phone Web browser but not from the laptop,  I am using same browser on phone and laptop I.e. Firefox.

Any thoughts?

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3 minutes ago, Deem said:

For some unknown reason, the video can be seen from phone Web browser but not from the laptop,  I am using same browser on phone and laptop I.e. Firefox.

Any thoughts?

Same here, I cannot see the video on my laptop using Edge browser.  I think we've seen a couple of other problem videos like this recently. What was the video filmed on and where/how is the video hosted? 

Edited by ntpntpntp
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That's better.  What did you do differently?   
I pulled out the url for the original video and tried it in a different browser tab.  Edge definitely didn't like it, it only played the audio.

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I transfer the video from phone to laptop using WhatsApp which reduce the file size from 36mb to 3.9mb, after that saved the file from WhatsApp on laptop to my download folder, uploaded the reduce size file using Web browser on laptop and all seem to be working fine now.

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2 hours ago, Going Spare said:

From the marks on the lug you appear to be working from below.  Can you get more leverage from above?  Within reason, don't worry about the force you have to use as you can't harm the motor block and there is very little 'give' in the fairly substantial metal chassis frame.  I doubt whether knife blades will be substantial enough.  

Are all the tender wheels the same diameter?  It may be a trick of the light but the centre wheel on the non-tyred side looks small.

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GS, this is for you, it does seem to look different size but when I checked with vernier caliper it is the same size. However the axle on which these 2 centre wheel sit on, both side have too much play in them, is that something normal or do I need to replace the centre wheels, it doesn't have any impact on running of the loco but I wouldn't mind knowing how they suppose to be?

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Those wheels can be very sloppy (large hole, small stub axle especially on the non-tyred side) but unless the loco has been run a very great deal to wear down those axles and if they are not catching or causing any derailments through points, let them be.

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  • 96RAF changed the title to Hornby R2273 B17 ringfield type 5 removal from chassis

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