Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 The Britmodeller forum holds regular "classic" group builds, and Airfix up to 1980 came around again. One of the builds I selected was the OO/HO scale Refuelling Set. It was one of a set of three RAF vehicle sets, with the Emergency Set and Recovery Set making up the others. First appearing in 1970, the Refuelling Set was the stuff of my dreams. I was an odd child, and was utterly fascinated by how mechanical things worked. Airfix kits, although a tiny scale, had all the details underneath: suspension, prop shafts, exhausts. Fabulous stuff. There’s no way I’m tipping that lot out just yet. Lovely, crisp white plastic. Like its companion sets, the Recovery Set and Emergency Set, these kits found their way to being bashed into Civvy Street on many a model railway of the 1970s and 1980s, as well as many bedroom shelf dioramas I’m sure! This set last appeared in the Airfix range contained in the now familiar red box in 2012. While the scale is 1/76th, and the purists would prefer 1/72nd, these models still stand up really well. And, oh, those Airfix enamels. Memories… I didn't want to build the kits straight from the box. I much prefer to make more accurate models whenever possible. Those in the know will be aware that the Bedford QL only entered service in 1941, a bit late for my obsession of 1940, and the tanker in the kit didn't appear until after the end of World War Two. The poor old QL, therefore, wouldn't be much use to me as a prop in aircraft photo sessions. I decided I could make a conversion to something found in civilian life post-war. As part of the upgrading process, I found some replacement wheels for both vehicles. The QL got resin, while the AEC got whitemetal. From what I can make out, this set was a new tool in 1969 or 1970. The box I have seems to date from 1973, according to Scalemates. At this point, Airfix didn't bother with copyright dates or anything on the printed material. The Bedford parts. The AEC parts. There is a fairly comprehensive set of figures to add life to the inevitable shelf dioramas possible with the set, plus a driver intended for the AEC. The Bedford, while well detailed, doesn't even get a steering wheel, let alone anyone to operate it! All the figures are dressed in the battledress style uniform adopted by the RAF around 1941 and worn well into the 1950s. I like to think that this kit, and the accompanying RAF vehicle sets from the same era, show Airfix at the top of their game. The moulds for the Bedford, in particular, are wonderfully fine and detailed - despite the lack of steering wheel and driver. For such an early boxing, though, I am surprised at the amount of flash evident. It's going to be interesting trying to document the build, with all that white plastic to cope with! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 My main focus on this build, selfishly, is the AEC. I've already got a really nice one, a 3D print from files created by Peter Harvey (trading as PHD). However, I'm going to start with the Bedford. For my 1940 obsession, it's just too modern! Briefly, Bedford was the British commercial vehicle arm of General Motors. The company had been essentially licence-building Chevrolet trucks suitable for Britain and Empire, but renamed to Bedford in 1931. It became known for well-built and rugged lorries, powered by a reliable straight-six 3.5 litre petrol engine from the Chevrolet stable. In the mid-1930s, Bedford began to produce small lorries for the military, the MW and OX range. In 1939, the British government asked the company to produce a 4-wheel drive general service truck for military use, and so was born the Q series. While the pilot vehicle was built in late 1939, and probably spent its formative life, when it wasn't being hammered by various military testing ranges, haring round the roads and fields near Luton, series production of the Q series chassis didn't really begin until March 1941. Between 1941 and 1945, over 52,000 vehicles were built. The rugged trucks came in various forms: QLB Bofors gun tractor. Approximately 5,500 QLBs were built. QLC in fire engine, signals vehicle, and petrol tanker form QLD general service cargo truck, the most numerous version in the series. It came in machinery, kitchen and battery storage form, the latter generally accompanying: QLR signals vehicle. QLT troop carrier. From August 1941 and until the end of WW II more than 3,300 QLTs were produced. QLW air portable tipper. Lorry, 3 ton, GS Bedford half-track (Bedford-Bren). Lorry, 3 ton, 4 x 4, Bedford, experimental (Bedford Giraffe). An attempt to make a motor vehicle capable of deep wading for river crossings and amphibious landing, the Bedford Giraffe was developed as insurance against the shallow wading kits under development not proving effective in deeper water. Now, that last one would make a fab kit bash, don't you think? Many of the survivors of the conflict went on to live long lives in Civvy Street, most often as recovery trucks or timber tractors. What I have in the box is a post-war Bedford QLC petrol tanker. We know it's post-war because the wartime vehicles rarely, if ever, had the swinging booms on top of the tank. Since I haven't any interest in such a beast, my options are to build the chassis and cab, and scratch a suitable form of body on the back. The kit does lend itself to this, as the original vehicle was essentially a blank canvas designed to take whatever bodywork was needed. A timber tractor, with a sheerlegs crane, winch and ground anchor might be fun. However, I've got an idea. You see, when I was playing toy trains - ahem! - building a model railway many years ago, I was rather keen to ensure I had period correct road vehicles. Nowadays, that's dead easy, but back in the last century it involved a fair amount of digging around and building or adapting kits. I've still got a good stash of whitemetal lorry kits intended for my British Road Services fleet. Ah, fleet vehicles. There was another rabbit hole I fell down. I became very interested in fleet vehicles of the 1950s, and started looking out BRS, British Railways, Auxiliary Fire Service and General Post Office Telephones subjects. I had a little dream of building a GPO Telephones depot on my layout. One of the reference books I got at the time - still have, obviously - turned up lovely photos of military surplus vehicles that were reworked by the GPO for their own purposes. One of those purposes was delivering fuel to other depots, and they bought up several Bedford QLC tankers. It didn't even look like any modifications were made for their lives in the GPO. Ideal kit bash fodder. So, I think I'm going to recreate my 20th century kit bash of the dear old QLC with all the new information, materials and skills I have now. First, a think about the potential for improvements to the model. Glazing, obviously, which will allow me to add the missing quarter light to the cab doors. I have some PE door mirrors in the Bits Box, wipers likewise. I already have a steering wheel, but I don’t plan on a driver being installed. What else can I do? Well, let’s review things for the first stage of the instructions. The fundamental parts for the cab, sans the roof, of course. I know the space is tight, but Airfix went to the trouble of moulding the dashboard and instruments, but failed to include a steering wheel and column. Ah well. Note the doors are moulded in such a way they could be posed open if desired. I think I should try to fabricate something to resemble the rolled canvas radiator cover that every QL has. Yes, there are ejector pin marks in places, but at this scale you ain’t gonna see 'em once everything is put together. One thing that’s obvious about the QL cab - at least once you notice it in photos of the real thing - is the thickness of the mudguards. They are literally about as thin and flimsy as Bedford could get away with. So thin, in fact, it’s a wonder they don’t just fold up because of gravity! I think it’s fair to say the kit mudguards aren’t exactly thin. This scales out at roughly three inches. Go and find a photo of a real QL and you’ll see it’s closer to half an inch, perhaps thinner. I take a sharp curved scalpel blade and carefully whittle away to thin things down a bit. I’ve got it a bit closer to a scale inch now, which improves the overall appearance. I have to remember this model is braille scale. Cruel photography aside, it’s not going to be seen close up very often, but I reckon I can get a bit more off the thickness yet. Anyway, having done that, the next stage is to work out where the steering column can go and make a suitable hole for it. Then, I’ll use the windows as moulded to mark up and make glazing. I’ll find somewhere to store it safely until after painting is done. The cab should then go together fairly speedily, followed by a lick of paint for the interior. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 (edited) A bit more Bedford business. This moulding has a fair bit of flash. One item, the brush bar that protects the radiator, was particularly adorned. While I’ve cleaned it up as best I can, I’m not going to use it. Instead, I’ll use the plastic as a template to fabricate a replacement in brass wire. I used brass wire for the steering column, too. The resin part was just too fragile. In fact, I broke the wheel in cleaning it up, too. It looks horribly blobby, but once behind the glazing it’ll be fine. When digging up reference photos of QLs, I found a build of this very kit where the modeller had gone utterly overboard with the details. Cab door furniture, all the gear and brake levers, even the foot pedals. I’m afraid that’s going a bit too far, but I applaud their attitude. The inside of the cab has since been painted in a pale cream colour. I don’t know whether the GPO ever repainted the interiors, but other vehicle cabs in their fleet were painted like that. The chassis and running gear is next. It pays to glue the leaf springs in place, and then leave them to set properly before attempting to install the axles. The transfer box needed on of the moulded pips removing to allow it to sit square. The axle stubs are extended on the kit because the wheels are designed to rotate while the wheel/hub is glued in place. To fit the resin wheels, I needed to trim about half the length of the stubs off. The resins also have a moulded flattened area. I was a bit worried about ensuring the chassis sat square, so I took my time over fitting the wheels. More by luck than judgement, it was all level. I like steered wheels set at an angle on most of my builds to give a little life to the model. This time, because the resin wheels are moulded with a square hole design to fit the later Airfix QLT kit, they could be glued with a set to them without faffing about with chopping or drilling for wire supports. The rear mudguards have been through the thinning routine, the cab has been painted inside and a start made on the outside, and it’s starting to look like a nice little QL. Once the basic cab paintwork is done, I’ll install the glazing. The next job is hacking about the tank to convert it to the basic wartime version. The big question really is do I fit all the pump gear in the rear so the doors can be open, or button it all up for ease of building? Edited August 22 by Heather Kavanagh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 I soon reached the point where the basic chassis and cab are nearly complete enough that I have to think about the tank. Old and new. I did a properly rubbish job at filling holes on that old tank, didn’t I? I don’t think I did all that bad a job on the old model, considering it’s nearly 30 years old. The new one still needs the PE wipers and mirrors, a number plate, the rad cover, brush bar, and the headlights, which have been drilled out a little, will have a drop of Molotov chrome followed by a spot of Kristal Klear. I’ve only ever found one photo showing the three QLCs bought by the GPO from the Ministry of Supply in 1954. It’s quite under-exposed, despite being an official image. It’s not at all clear what colour the chassis frames are painted, so for my old model I opted for black. However, most other GPO vehicles had the frames painted in aluminium. I think this was a maintenance feature, like the inside of steam loco frames painted red, designed to allow cracks or leaks to show up against the bright paint. I like the contrast between the aluminium, dark green and black mudguards, so I’ve done a bit of modellers' licence on the new build. The replacement wheels improve the look, I think. Whether I’ll be able to hand letter the data on the doors now remains to be seen. Don't think I haven’t contemplated breaking the old model for the tank to try and save me some effort! I know it’s a cheat, but I think I’ve decided to model the rear doors closed. I have to make a spare wheel cradle up, and there are plenty of adjustments to make on the tank itself. That’s all a bit too much for my poor old brain cell right now, so I think I’ll stop for the time being. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 Heather, yours is a dual coloured Type 4 box with round logo, used from 1972 to 1975 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 (edited) As you might have realised, I'm basically reposting from the Britmodeller thread. I don't usually work quite so quickly! 😆 The brush bar, lights and holes drilled for wipers and mirrors. The raw materials for the tank. I’ve spent a while reviewing images online and in my reference books to check the layout of fixtures and fittings. The main changes I need to make are to remove the large pad at the rear, and make a different manhole cover near the front. Various holes will need to be filled. The tankers in GPO service have a slightly different layout of details to the standard QLC fuel tanker. It’s also become clear the fuel pump equipment in the kit is nothing like the wartime units. My plan to have the doors closed, therefore, avoids that can of worms! I had been trying to work out the best way to make the spare wheel carrier these ex-Ministry of Supply QLCs had. It carried the spare on the offside, and is an interesting confection of various strips and bars. There’s only one photo I’ve found, and it’s far from clear. While my brain cell tackled the carrier, I set about filling various holes in the tank. All the details for the post-war machine need to be removed, so that raised bit for the boom delivery system has to be filled from below with some scrap styrene sheet and location holes all over the shop plugged with rod. This was set aside to harden before being attacked with big files and sanding sticks. Unusually for me, I made a scale sketch of the carrier. I carefully glued together bits of scrap and Evergeen strip to make this. The rear frame at the top has a big plate, which I surmised ought to be there for the heavy full-sized wheel and tyre to be bolted to. The front frame was simpler. Once these parts have been painted, I will try to assemble them on the rest of the model, and add the various braces and gubbins I can just make out in the gloomy photo. The tank was made up, after a session with the big files. There’s some filler just to tidy a little bit. The tank saddles and hose/step boards are also made up. Nothing here is attached to the chassis yet. I’ve made a start marking out for greeblies, based on what I can see of the tank top in that danged gloomy photo. The manhole/filler is one of the original kit's wheel hubs, plus lifting brackets and various little blobs, the uses of which I can’t fathom. The wheel carrier will go in under the hose/step frame thing near the front of the tank. All of a sudden… I needed some final fettling on the plugged tank, divots revealed by a squirt of primer had some further filler applied. Then I set about painting the tank saddles and tank itself. Before I knew where I was, everything was stuck together. I didn’t bother taking photos of it. Final details include PE number plates, wipers and mirrors from Langley Models. I remembered the radiator cover right at the end. That’s made from a square of thin aluminium salvaged from the top of an instant coffee jar, carefully rolled and artfully crimped to represent the straps. Aside from lettering, which I’m afraid I’m not capable of these days - I did the old model with a Rotring technical pen and white ink, freehand and without magnification! - and a coat of satin varnish, this model is done. Old and new, just for kicks. Now I’ll think about the big AEC. Edited August 22 by Heather Kavanagh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 (edited) The London General Omnibus Company started producing its own internal combustion engined buses in the 1900s. In 1912, LGOC was taken over by the group of companies that owned most of London Underground. Following the takeover, a separate company was set up for the bus manufacturing side of things. It was named Associated Equipment Company, better known as AEC. AEC lorries were built in a factory in Southall, west London, from 1927 until the brand ceased to exist in the 1979. The commercial vehicle ranges had names beginning with M, such as Majestic, Mammoth, etc, while buses were titled with names beginning with R, such as Regal, Regent, etc. The AEC Matador was designed as a 10-ton all-wheel drive artillery tractor for the British War Office. The gun tractor towed 5.5in medium and 3.7in anti-aircraft guns, and entered service in 1938. It was adapted from the company’s 4x2 Matador commercial. The distinctive cab was made of an ash frame, clad in steel sheet. The chassis was initially powered by an AEC A193 six-cylinder petrol engine of 7.4 litres, giving 92bhp, driving through a gearbox and transfer box with four forward and one reverse gears. All Matadors were equipped with a 7 ton winch. The petrol-powered 4x4 Matadors were given the code 853, and when a diesel engine was installed the code acquired an initial O (for “oil”) to become O853. It’s fair to say most 853s were diesel powered. The Matador 853 proved to be rugged and reliable, like its civilian forebear, and inevitably was put to all kinds of uses throughout the war. Over 9,000 were made, many finding further life in Civvy Street after hostilities ceased. The 6x6 chassis was officially designated AEC Marshal, but everyone called it the Matador. The 6x6 petrol-engined vehicles were coded 854, and O854 when diesel powered. A quick way to identify a petrol-powered vehicle is a prominent box on the passenger side of the cab front. This was a cover to accommodate an Autovac unit, a vacuum-assisted fuel reservoir that was set at a higher point than the engine’s carburettor. In the 1920s and 1930s, electric fuel pumps were still quite unreliable, so the Autovac was used instead. I was quite surprised to discover the Autovac company still exists. Go and check them out! The RAF’s Marshal/Matador 6x6 fuel tankers were equipped with pumping equipment from Zwicky Ltd, carried 2,500 gallons (11,000 litres), and could be used to tow Sunderlands ashore. The chassis was also used as a mobile crane, typically fitted with a Coles unit. Cross-kitting available by adapting the Airfix Recovery Set crane to the Matador chassis. If you really want to fall down a rabbit hole, search for “Heavy Cockatrice”, a rather alarming use of the 6x6 Matador chassis… I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but I was offered a test build of a new kit from Pete Harvey Designs. The kit is sold as digital files to download and print to whatever scale you like. Mine was printed by a friend, as I don't have the technology or nouse for it, to 1/76th scale. Some of the parts were very fine and fragile at that scale, but the model turned out really well. You can see I have some work to do, mainly in the paint department, but this model rather usurps and absolutely beats hands down the Airfix model in the detail stakes. That's not going to stop me doing a detail and upgrade job on the old kit, though. Let's look at the Airfix parts. I know I did this right at the start, but it doesn't hurt to see the AEC specific trees. I've included the aftermarket wheels, and some other upgrades. I rather fancy the early type of roof for a start, and since my friend printed two copies of the PDH kit I have a spare. Theoretically I could use the PDH spare wheel carrier, but not all 854s had it fitted. I might consider using the printed one as a template to build something a bit more robust for the Airfix one. One thing that can definitely be improved on is the pumping equipment. This rather basic branched pipework affair is what comes in the kit. And this is what the PDH kit has. My PDH 854 print proved rather thin in places, due to scale, and the rear pump compartment doors were not quite suitable for posing open. I'd like to have this model with the doors open to let this nice detail show. My first job will be to work out how best to fit the whitemetal wheels. If I can get the front wheels steered slightly, that would be a bonus. Edited August 22 by Heather Kavanagh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 They say you should study photos of your chosen prototype in order to fully understand what you’re trying to make a model of. I have been studying photos. What I find is a fairly bewildering array of variations on a theme. Happily, knowing I want a really early version of the big AEC, there are some basic features I can aim for. The most obvious is the cab roof, but there are others as well. So, I made a list of things I’d like to tackle if possible. CHASSIS Fit the cast wheels, hopefully steering the front ones Make a spare wheel carrier, but use a spare resin wheel because the cast metal one is a bit wonky Modify the rear mudguards to bring them within scale appearance CAB Thin the window frames, add rear windows Flush glaze Make sure the driver fits Mirrors and wipers Open the hole in the radiator for the starter handle Autovac Lights/headlamps Thin the mudguards Fit the early roof TANK Substitute the resin print firewall, or make suitable modifications to the kit Fit the resin print pump equipment in the rear Rear door interior details Refine the access ladder Look at refining the tank top details Quite the list. I started with the cab floor and thinning the mudguards. As moulded, they are near a scale three inches (75mm in new money), where the real things were formed of thin sheet metal. Rarely for me, I deployed a power tool for this job. My Dremel with a drum sander tool was used. I got a little exuberant. Some scrap sprue was glued in to plug the mistake. With the front mudguards thinned, I looked at the rear ones. Like the front units, the rear ones were made of thin sheet metal. There was some riveted reinforcement and other supports, but they were not the chunky things in the kit. To my mind, thinning these improves the scale appearance no end, so something must be done. But what? I could sub the printed versions, but they’re very thin and flimsy. I could do the old trick of chamfering the outer edges of the plastic parts to imply thinner material. I could even scratch new guards from sheet styrene. I think what I shall do is try to sand the tops of the plastic parts and see where it takes me. While I want to make a nice job of this model, I fear a degree of mission creep sneaking in! I set about the rear mudguards with files and sanding sticks. There’s no way I was going to get near paper thin, so I went with what felt okay with the material and the fact this isn’t meant to be an ultra scale rendition. Here you see after at the top, and before below. Happy with that. I do need to decide if I’m making a spare wheel carrier, because it’ll mean hacking the nearside guard about. There’s also a bit of detailing I can add. Time for some thinking, there. Next I did a little work to make the cast whitemetal wheels fit the plastic axles. Like the Bedford, I chopped the end spigot back a bit, then carefully drilled out the wheel centres. Some CA saw the wheels attached to the axles. Then it was just a steady build-up of the chassis and suspension according to the instructions. Apart from a slight clash with the exhaust and the front drive shaft, that’s the chassis assembled. Some primer and a lick of paint will be the next job. Then I’ll head back to the cab and do the various little mods I have planned. I got a light coat of rattlecan red oxide primer over the chassis. I then spent a happy hour or so with the hairy stick, getting Revell Aqua 68 Dark Green all over everything while it was still accessible. The tyres have been given a coat of Aqua 09 Anthracite. The original kit scheme for this vehicle was an overall dark earth brown. I’m not sure that was ever correct. Vehicle paint colours and camouflage for the period I’m interested in tend to be a bit sketchy. There are references that tell us what was supposed to happen, and then there’s anecdotal and some photo evidence to show something else. With the big AEC refuellers only coming into full RAF use late in 1940, I’ve opted for a sort of hybrid, though backed up with some evidence. I know there are proper colours out there for British military vehicles. If I was collecting and building armour and soft skins alone, I would be busy getting it dead right. However, my collection is intended for set dressing, to populate photos of aircraft models with period-correct vehicles as best I can. I take the view that if the colours I’m using are wrong, I am at least consistently wrong! So, I have RAF vehicles still in the pre-war blue-grey, some that may have been overpainted with the dark green and dark earth like that used to camouflage aircraft, some that have come straight from the factory in an overall dark green, and one or two in an early form of the classic "Mickey Mouse" pattern. The AEC tankers fall somewhere in the middle, leaving the factory just as the schemes were finally being settled on. So I’ve opted for an overall dark green with a disruptive pattern akin to aircraft but in a dark grey/tarmac and not dark earth. A similar issue arises with markings and lettering. RAF vehicles before the war were almost all registered with civilian number plates from the Middlesex area. At some point in 1940, new deliveries were coming into service that were registered with a military census number, but this doesn’t seem to have been painted on the vehicles until 1941. Where I can’t find evidence of painted markings, I tend to leave things unlettered, which will be the case for this big tanker, until I can find something that works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 (edited) I completely forgot to take a photo of the cab during build up. I’ve done some mods to it, namely chop out the horizontal windscreen dividers (which will be replaced by something finer), and to cut out the weird little triangular windows on the back wall. I’d never noticed the latter before, but did wonder about the triangular openings in the printed firewall. Studying more photos of real 854s reveals these triangular windows. Presumably they were a help when manoeuvring the big old machines. I would like the early type of cab roof, but the 3D print one is a shade too small to fit. I’m considering whether to just roll with kit part or hack it about to make the earlier form. Another feature that passed me by was the pump compartment doors didn’t open to fold flat along the side, but rather stuck out like elephant's ears. Close inspection of photos shows a stay deployed to prevent the wind catching the doors. Rather obvious, really, as you wouldn’t want to clobbered round the noggin by one of those! I’ve managed to get the detailed 3D print of the pump equipment to fit, so I just need to work out the colours. The printed spare wheel cradle will also fit nicely. I could scratch something using the print as a template, but there are times when I feel my time would be better employed! I fear I’m getting bogged down in the weeds a bit. I need to step back a little and see the bigger picture. I did say something earlier about not trying to make this a highly detailed model… Well, under the pump cabinet is a bit bare. There should be various bits of bracketry to hold the darned thing up where it overhangs the rear chassis. A few bits of thin strip add something, even if it’s not strictly correct. As you can see, I’ve caved in and stuck the tank to the chassis as well. This will come back to bite me later, I’m sure. Colour images of the pump equipment are like hen's teeth. The best I could make out was the cabinet interior was painted a light colour (I went with a cream) and the doings seemed to be mostly a bare metallic colour, or at least had a dull sheen to it. I mixed up some matt black and silver to make a dark gunmetal, then dry-brushed some silver hither and yon to bring out a highlight or two. A pin wash went on last, just to give a little shadow in places. I am actually quite pleased with the effect. The question, of course, arises of whether I should attach some flexible silicone hoses to the outlets, or have hoses laid out as if ready to be attached. Time for more thinks. Cab painting is complete, so the glazing went in. I’ve cracked open the driver's windscreen. The cab isn’t attached to the chassis right now. I’m thinking about the firewall and roof. Paint is well advanced on the tank, too. You can almost make out, in the gloom, the rear mudguards are attached and have been detailed a little with some bracing. I am a bit miffed the 3D roof won’t fit the cab. It’s a mite too narrow. I’ve been considering whether I can hack the kit part about to make it more like the early roof. I’m now thinking I should cut my losses and just fit the standard kit roof and be done with it. As for the firewall, the 3D print is so thin is curves naturally. I don’t think the curve will go away or, more accurately, it’ll probably come back if I do succeed in making it go away at first. The kit part is that scale three inch thick battleship plate. I think I can scratch a new part easily enough from thinner styrene sheet, and replace the various details from the print version. I was asked how I achieved the flush glazing. I have a sewing needle in a pin chuck. I press the clear material against the window aperture with a finger tip, then carefully scratch the outline with the needle. Then it’s a case of carefully cutting the shape out, for which I use a pair of Fiskars needlework scissors. It is usually a good idea to remember to make the glazing before the cab is built up, though it is possible to do it after the fact if the cab roof isn’t attached. Small and oddly-shaped windows generally get dealt with by Kristal Klear. I made a new firewall from scrap sheet stock and some strip. The Airfix spotlight was also hacked out and repositioned. And some details for the inside of the rear doors. Despite being a seasoned veteran kit builder, I’ve never had much luck laminating material. So, having a go at making up a roof to fit the cab is a bit of a departure for me. I’m using various scraps - remember, I never throw out anything remotely useful - to build up a profile. I fear another of my nemesis materials will need to be deployed: Milliput. So, to avoid the roof for as long as I can (well, I’m waiting for solvent to set, or at least that’s my excuse) I attached the barn doors, got a base coat on the firewall, and had another fiddle about with the printed resin spare wheel carrier. Can you see what I assume is a tank level gauge above the spare wheel? Silly details like this please me no end. The ladder is a bit on the heavy side, but the 3D one is too light. I need to add the barn door stays, which I’ll make from fine brass wire for strength. Headlamps, side mirrors and wipers, and that roof… I am going to make a stab at the laminated version. If all else fails, the original kit part will be used. Then it’s the final paint, including the camo pattern and a bit of weathering. Overall, this little model is turning out quite well, albeit with some help from third party bits I had as spares. Edited August 22 by Heather Kavanagh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 Final stage now. This worked out way better than it should have. I didn’t even need to use the dreaded Milliput. And some nice portraits of both vehicles to finish up. I'm pretty pleased with how the AEC turned out in the end. It's not as finely detailed as the PDH 3D resin kit, but is a little more robust and likely to survive my ham-fistedness as I plonk it on my Instant Pop-Up Airfield for photo sessions. Thanks for reading, and I hope you enjoyed the process. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topcat_Ern Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 Nice, thanks for sharing Heather, always interesting on how folks improve upon the kits. Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valhalla Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 (edited) Awesome build Heather, thanks so much for sharing. I really enjoyed reading about this build. Ian Edited August 22 by Valhalla 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthias Muth Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 Great work, chapeau! Matthias aka modelldoc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoubleD Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 Very impressive - so realistic👏 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominic Thomas Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 I do hope Airfix don’t loose the links to this post as there’s so much there to help if anyone wants to make such a model. In fact, you should publish it ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD45elect2000 Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 (edited) I painted mine tan, if I read correctly this is somewhat accurate for a later time period? I also was trying for an earlier machine. I’m not opposed to duplicating your machines if mine are incorrect. Like you I want them not as stand alone models but as one more prop for the aircraft and the figures. Randall Edited August 23 by SD45elect2000 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 1 minute ago, SD45elect2000 said: I painted mine tan I really don’t know where the original researchers found dark earth/tan as a colour for the big AEC. All my references tell me the things were, in the UK at least, dark green, with various forms of camouflage. Post-war, those remaining in service were repainted in RAF blue-grey, acquiring the yellow upper parts in due course. I'm not saying brown is wrong, only that I’ve never found it in my researches. 9 minutes ago, Dominic Thomas said: you should publish it ! Thank you for the kind words. If there are any modelling mag editors reading this, they know where to find me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD45elect2000 Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 (edited) 19 minutes ago, Heather Kavanagh said: I really don’t know where the original researchers found dark earth/tan as a colour for the big AEC. All my references tell me the things were, in the UK at least, dark green, with various forms of camouflage. Post-war, those remaining in service were repainted in RAF blue-grey, acquiring the yellow upper parts in due course. I'm not saying brown is wrong, only that I’ve never found it in my researches. Thank you for the kind words. If there are any modelling mag editors reading this, they know where to find me! Might they have been tan if they were sent to other than the UK? North Africa- the far East etc? Am not opposed to repainting the two I have, repainting made simpler by the fact I did not install glazing.. I’m looking for photos online and I’m not having a lot of luck. edit: I just now found and bought another refueling set. Randall Edited August 23 by SD45elect2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 I built quite a few of these sets over the years. Not to Heather's standard and not necessarily accurate either, but a set I've always enjoyed. AEC Matador 854 tanker AEC Matador O854 tanker 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heather Kavanagh Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 13 minutes ago, SD45elect2000 said: I’m looking for photos online and I’m not having a lot of luck. https://www.aec-matador.co.uk/painting That’s a preserved and restored one. Apart from the hose boom adaptation, it’s been finished in the later war camouflage of dark green with the "Mickey Mouse" blobs in a dark grey/tarmac. I remain convinced the vehicles left the factory in an overall dark green at first, like all military production at the time, later being camouflaged according to the laid down standards. What local stations did with their vehicles is down to conjecture. Now I’m halfway down a rabbit hole, I am going to dig around and see if the big beasts were shipped overseas at any time. Something tells me it’s unlikely, with the lighter Bedford cropping up more often in photos of the North Africa and Mediterranean theatres. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratch Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modeling maniac Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 Nice jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SD45elect2000 Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 (edited) Lets see if I can duplicate Heathers efforts! Edited August 26 by SD45elect2000 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A J Rimmer Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 @Heather Kavanagh Some cracking work there - well done! Great builds everybody! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul71 Posted August 27 Share Posted August 27 On 23/08/2024 at 10:17, SD45elect2000 said: I painted mine tan, if I read correctly this is somewhat accurate for a later time period? I also was trying for an earlier machine On 23/08/2024 at 10:23, Heather Kavanagh said: I really don’t know where the original researchers found dark earth/tan as a colour for the big AEC. All my references tell me the things were, in the UK at least, dark green, with various forms of camouflage. Post-war, those remaining in service were repainted in RAF blue-grey, acquiring the yellow upper parts in due course. I'm not saying brown is wrong, only that I’ve never found it in my researches this to me looks like the AEC its refueling a MKII spitfire at a otu and is sort of a tan colour and no camouflage 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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