alexconnell Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Hi Guys, My son got the titled R1160 for Christmas and today we have attempted to put it all together. I have checked each connection on the track multiple times as has someone else and also the power connectors etc. I followed the instructions to the letter but it does not seem to be working at all. It is set to 03, I have pressed direction buttons and the turned the power dial, I have even reset the DCC to the factory settings and still nothing. Does anyone have any ideas? My Son is getting restless. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 What a shame and how frustrating. You're probably getting more disappointed than your son!Have you checked to see if power is going to the track? I don't know whether the Pullman coaches with that set are supposed to light up, but that would be a good test of current, although I have a feeling they might be non-lighting ones. Other possibilies are a short, but your controller should show if that is happening. It's also possible that the decoder isn't working properly, but check in the order suggested before worrying about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainlover23 Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Revert to an anologue set as a first train set it saves a lot of problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Too late now, isn't it, trainlover? He's already got the DCC set and it's best to start with that nowadays. Move with the times! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexconnell Posted December 26, 2012 Author Share Posted December 26, 2012 Hello... I have an update... There is power going to the track. I have moved to just having a simple oval and am now in a position where the train starts moving on 1/4 of the track. But that is it. It only seems to work anti clockwise and then when it hits the half way point on the corner or where the power contectors are it stops. Any other ideas? I was excited until it stopped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevecamden Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Very frustrating - we have all had days like this with model railways: Do you have a meter to check the power on the track and from the Select? Reset the Select again to factory settings Change the decoder id of the train to something other than 3. Unfortunately with the Select you can't reset the decoder of the train to factory settings just in case this has got into a tizzy - if this is the case, you may have to find a model shop that will do this for you or check the loco. Lastly, keep isolating it down to just a few straights - will it go forwards/backwards? Oh, and you could deliberately short the Select by putting a wire across the rails - it should cut out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I thought I might be attacked by persons better than I for making your last suggestion, steve, but I'm sure we all do it as a very quick check for current. The controllers cut out so there should be no problem doing that as far as I can see. So yes, where the loco stops put a piece of wire across the track in that place. It might be that there is some disturbance, for instance, with supply from your controller because of, say, loose feeds on slight tipping of the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Oh for the days when train sets were just plain old DC, tqake it out of the box and just run it! If you don't get any joy with the suggestions made I would return it to the shop were it was bought from for a repair, replacement or refund at the dealers discression. Don't try to mend the model yourself or you will invalidate the warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 I still recommed a plain DC set for those starting out with their first train set, it's easier to use when things go wrong and can be converted over to DCC should the owner need DCC at a later date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexconnell Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hi All, Put the 2 wires todather and the DCC display flickers and then shows 12 then 30 the back to 03. The folk trick does nothing... I see that the track is not 100% flush against the metal underneith... When I push it and the use the fork it then resets again i.e. 12, 13, 03. However if I hold it and confirm there is power going to the length of track the train still does not move. Is this all due to the track connector do you think or goes it also be something else as well? Alex Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graskie Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 The son of Triangman said: I still recommed a plain DC set for those starting out with their first train set, it's easier to use when things go wrong and can be converted over to DCC should the owner need DCC at a later date.But it costs to convert, SoT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Are you certain that the rail joiners are properly fitting into the adjoining rail? It's easy for them to go under the rail without you noticing. Put some pieces of straight track together and see if it works on that? Another thing you could do is put the wires from the controller directly on to the wheels and see if they turn. SOT and trainlover, what's the difference between a DC set that doesn't work and a DCC set that doesn't work? I had a common or garden DC loco that wouldn't move an inch. Would you have said I should have bought a DCC loco instead? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brando Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Hi, is your track laid on a metal surfaced table ? If so thats your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 A DC set is easier to fault find Poliss. It's pretty easy to convert most new locos as they have DCC sockets, most people at home can simply plug a decoder into the socket at minimal cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainlover23 Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 Oh for the days when train sets were just plain old DC, tqake it out of the box and just run it! My sentiments exactly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poliss Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I have had my DCC layout for ten years. I just took the controller out of the box and ran it. Never had a problem. Fault finding is not hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 It never ceases to amaze me as to why DCC (digital) is considered 'harder' or 'less user friendly' than dc (analogue)?? Both require clean rails and wheel treads. Both require good connections between controller and track. Both require the rails are pushed correctly into their fishplates. Both require fishplates to be a tight fit onto the abutting rails. Both require the track to be laid reasonably level and especially so on points and diamond crossing areas. Both allow one or more locos/trains to be run (See below for more detail) Where DCC scores is it normally only needs one 'controller' for the whole multi tracked layout where as dc needs ideally one controller per loop or independently operated line. dc needs isolating track sections some controlled by points others via section switches to allow locos to be isolated from the rest that are running. DCC has none! DCC needs power to all rails. dc only has power to rails where movement is required. While "Just two wires" is perhaps not quite true for DCC, it is never the less possible with the aid of Digital point clips! dc requires far more wires. I am an ex dc user now fully DCC. What would I start off with today if beginning again or recommending a model railway set to someone else just starting? DCC all the way! IMO dc v DCC is comparable to like watching a 625 line TV of yesteryear compared to a digital HD 42 inch TV of today! No special tools are needed to test DCC or dc! A 12 volt lamp with two wire leads will show if rail voltage is present on both systems. A multimeter is better and on DCC switched onto its ac voltage range will give an good indication of the rail volts, but not the true voltage. However, the indicated voltage should be within a volt or two of the real volts and the reading taken should always be constant all around the layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flashbang Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 It never ceases to amaze me as to why DCC (digital) is considered 'harder' or 'less user friendly' than dc (analogue)?? Both require clean rails and wheel treads. Both require good connections between controller and track. Both require the rails are pushed correctly into their fishplates. Both require fishplates to be a tight fit onto the abutting rails. Both require the track to be laid reasonably level and especially so on points and diamond crossing areas. Both allow one or more locos/trains to be run (See below for more detail) Where DCC scores is it normally only needs one 'controller' for the whole multi tracked layout where as dc needs ideally one controller per loop or independently operated line. dc needs isolating track sections some controlled by points others via section switches to allow locos to be isolated from the rest that are running. DCC has none! DCC needs power to all rails. dc only has power to rails where movement is required. While "Just two wires" is perhaps not quite true for DCC, it is never the less possible with the aid of Digital point clips! dc requires far more wires. I am an ex dc user now fully DCC. What would I start off with today if beginning again or recommending a model railway set to someone else just starting? DCC all the way! IMO dc v DCC is comparable to like watching a 625 line TV of yesteryear compared to a digital HD 42 inch TV of today! No special tools are needed to test DCC or dc! A 12 volt lamp with two wire leads will show if rail voltage is present on both systems. A multimeter is better and on DCC switched onto its ac voltage range will give an good indication of the rail volts, but not the true voltage. However, the indicated voltage should be within a volt or two of the real volts and the reading taken should always be constant all around the layout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDS Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 @alexconnell Have you got this working yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainlover23 Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 Well have you got it working yet ?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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