Looking into DCC

[Indiana_Jones]

Hello everyone,

First post here, have been lurking around for the last couple of weeks.

I am looking at finally getting my trains set up again after 20 years (finally have the space now). 

Still have most of my stock which is all DC and I am tempted to take the dive into DCC but just had a couple of questions:

-Is it hard to convert DC locos over to DCC? (from the sounds of it, it involves cutting some wires and soldering new ones in)

-What system would you recommend? Select, Elite or Elink? at this stage I am leaning towards Elink as I think the idea of  being able to make a programme is pretty nifty, but as others have said here, I do like to twist my knob!

-Can I connect a DC controller to a DCC layout (with the DCC control removed of course) and run DC locos on it? (As I'd prefer to keep my childhood Intercity 225 as a DC)

Cheers,

Andrew

 

[poliss]

Hello. The ease of converting locos to DCC depends on the loco. Some are fairly straighforward, others that have certain types of Ringfield motors need a screw replacing.

A look at Hornby's guides will give you an idea of the work that needs doing.

https://www.hornby.com/hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides

 

If I used Hornby DCC controllers I'd go for the Elink, with the Elite as second choice.

 

Yes, you can switch controllers to run DC locos on your layout. I'd recommend using a double pole double throw switch on the controllers output leads so you don't accidently have both connected at once.

 

Lots of info on Brian Lamberts DCC pages.

http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html

[Fishmanoz]

Hi IJ, welcome to the forums. I can see you have already done some reading here. Make sure it includes http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html

There is lots of info about general DCC conversion and conversion of specific locos around, including on the Brian Lambert site, and also on the Bromsgrove models site. The principle is simple - disconnect all the wiring between pickups and motor, throw away any electronic components in there for suppression on DC, then wire each side pickups to decoder red and black wires and motor to orange and grey and it's done. Yes, you'll need to solder to do that. There's a couple of tricky bits as you must also ensure there is no connection via chassis between pickups and motor connectors, which is the case for some types of Ringfield motor arrangements, and also split chassis types are more difficult too. 

I think you've already seen the message on Select - cheap but bad value as very basic. Now if you want knobs, you need Elite which works with RM just like eLink. Or if you can live without knobs, RM/eLink is much cheaper. 

Yes, you can remove the DCC controller and put the DC one back instead, and it is possible to run you DCC locos on DC too. But for DCC, you install DCC point clips to ensure the whole layout is live all the time, which means all locos move the same on the entire layout when you go back to DC.  That includes any DCC locos which have DC running enabled in their decoder (yes, you can switch this off and it is recommended to do so if you don't intend to run them on DC). 

[Fishmanoz]

Well poliss, we posted st the same time and told him almost exactly the same thing!

[Indiana_Jones]

Thanks for the information, chaps _b

Will look more into the DCC conversion with the links provided, should manage with that I reckon.

Just need to select a control system now, I guess with the Elink / Railmaster system, how stable is it? I tend to see threads about people having issues with it not working properly, but of course most threads you see about such things are for problems as people don't make threads to say stuff is working like it should be, which I'd like to imagine is the vast majority. 

[idlemarvel]

You're right indi, I would assume most eLink users are in the happy silent majority.  If you want  computerized control system I would recommend the RM/eLink bundle, for three reasons; it is much cheaper than Elite+RM (less than 30%), it is much more reliable (RM has a “heart-beat” function for the eLink, and you can perform a soft reset of the eLink if there is a problem rather than having to pull the plug); and it has higher performance.  The eLink can run at higher communications speeds over the USB link than the Elite (115200 baud vs 19200 baud), which implies higher specification processors inside, and the release notes say “eLink now supported at 115,200 BAUD rate for smoother operation” which implies lower speeds are not so smooth.

[RDS]

I use Elite and RailMaster and if cost is not an issue, I would recommend that combination, especially as it gives the ability to control your trains via the controller and not just via a screen all the time.  With the Elite / RailMaster combination you can control some trains manually whilst the computer is controlling others.

I am not aware of any baud rate problems and I have run up to 10 loco's simultaneously and I have not had any problems with my Elite comunicating with RailMaster.

Although it is possible, I do not think it is practical to run a DC loco on your DCC track because of the need to ensure it is the only loco on the layout when it is running because as fishy says for DCC, it is necessary to put clips on the points to ensure the whole layout is live all the time.   I have succesfully converted a Hornby Intercity loco to DCC and modified it's lights to White and Red bi-colour LED's selected automatically by the decoder, depending on direction.

[gilbo2]

I sold my elite for the elink, I have no regrets. Have hid it under the baseboard as well.

Although not official, it does seem to have a faster processor and I found that it provides smoother control of locos than the elite. Again, not scientific, but the motors "whine" much less with elink.

I would love to see the detailed technical differences from elite to elink to confirm my non-scientific observations!