New to DCC, e-link and rail master - loco issues

[Clintos]

Hi Everyone,

After many years absent from the hobby I have finally gotten back into it. ALot has changed and Im essentially starting from scratch. I purchased a set, the Western Master with e-link, to ease myself into the DCC and rail master that hornby use. Current use has had mixed results. The loco randomly starts and stops in various areas around the simple loop. I left the turnout out for ease of first use so Im using just a simple oval. I have checked the track and connections and they are firm, updated the firmware and software as per the trouble shooting examples and other forums as well. Some times I need to give the loco a small nudge to move again and when it stops the controls on the computer do nothing, until I give it another nudge. One thing I am yet to do is upgrade the usb cord thats includded in the starter set with a better shielded one. Will that make a difference? What other advice can people here give? I'm kinda scratching my head atm.

 

Many thanks,

Clinton

[gilbo2]

I doubt the USB lead is your problem but it does sound like your next stop is to clean the track using a soft cloth with a spot of IPA fluid, or lighter fuel is good too. If you dont have these, the cloth on its own is better than nothing for now and should show an improvement.

[Graskie]

Also worth checking that all the wheels are clean.

[Jailor]

Hi Clinton

Probably not the answer but if you have points on the loop have you inserted DCC clips to make all of the track live?

Ron.

[Clintos]

Thanks for the advice guys. Being a new set and not 48hrs old i didn't think the track could get dirty already but I'll try it and as for the point, I left the point out of the loop as the set didn't come with any of the DCC clips. On a standard loop are the clips still required? Sorry for all the questions. I'll put the advice to good use. Thanks

[gilbo2]

As you dont have the point in the loop you dont need to worry about any clips yet.

You would only need them if you have a train running on the loop and then you want to do some shunting in your siding at the same time.

When your ready this site tells you all you need to know about wiring your layout;

http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/

[coley65]

Its faulty send it back I had the same problem took it back to hattons and the engine did the same thing on their test track they opened another box and same thing again.  I just bought the elink and a a cheap bachman junor worked perfect

[gilbo2]

Null (Coley65), why are you so sure that Clintos has exactly the same fault? The symptoms above are typical of dirty connections and this is worth checking first? Locos often then benefit from a brief run-in period to help polish up all its pick-ups to the wheels. If after doing all this nothing has improved, then yes there could be a fault. First things first though to avoid the hassle of returns unless the dealer is just around the corner who could help.

[coley65]

I was not so sure,  If you doubt me ring hattons technician.  They were brill like I said they even tested another one out of the box and I am glad they did because I would have had to go all the way back to the shop again.  Oh and by the way the first set had no sticker on with the code for railmaster.

In sumary I was very excited about getting back into model railways, however due to poor products it really got me frustrated and spent a long time trying to put things right.

1. no railmaster cd key

2. faulty loco

3. faulty elink or 1 amp power supply been told its a firmware issue told inm april have to wait for new firmware

not good is it

However I do not regret this as I love the system

regaRDS

Coley

[RDS]

Hi Clintos

When it stops, are you running at a reasonable speed, or just crawling along?

Most loco's benefit from running in, both forward and reverse, at a reasonable speed.  I usually use about 50% full speed, for about 10 minutes in each direction and then the same again.  You can program Railmaster to do this automatically for you.

The USB lead that came with the set should be ideal for your layout.

If the Loco stops and starts when running at this reasonable speed, I would agree, it seems to be faulty.  

[Clintos]

Well guys, first just wanted to say thanks for the help and support, simply awesome. I've done the items you have suggested above and also inspected the internals of the loco in case something was out of place etc. I ran it again and seams to work fine. I ran it for a bit at different speeds without any hassle but it did stall once while it was going slow at a crawl. So I just put it down to being too slow. But seams to be fine. Thanks for the great response people. 

 

Clint

[gilbo2]

Glad your sorted Clintos now enjoy :-)

[Clintos]

:-D

[gilbo2]

As a final point, if the loco / track go into storage for awhile, the procedure described here may need to be repeated again as the electrical pickups do tend to tarnish slightly. You soon get used to all this though and it becomes second nature ;-) 

[Clintos]

Ah, Cheers for that. I actually would not have known this. As use continues with the loco and track I know they need to be cleaned etc but was not aware on that. Thank for the tip!

[CaptCluster]

Well, this is nuts! After hours struggling with ports and drivers, I had the same problem but far worse, as the GWR saddle tank, supplied with the Western master set, wouldn’t move on new track for more than an inch, and then refuse to move again under any circumstances. Luckily, I had some rolling road cradles, from Direct Train Spares in Burnley, and it works perfectly mounted on the same stretch of track – mental. I can see that setting the full thing up on DCC is going to keep me out of trouble elsewhere for some time.

[CaptCluster]

Solved! The engine must have had a tight spot. It still clunks with each rotation of the wheels, which is dissapointing, but after running it on the rolling road for a while it now runs on the track.

 

Well, this is nuts! After hours struggling with ports and drivers, I had the same problem but far worse, as the GWR saddle tank, supplied with the Western master set, wouldn’t move on new track for more than an inch, and then refuse to move again under any circumstances. Luckily, I had some rolling road cradles, from Direct Train Spares in Burnley, and it works perfectly mounted on the same stretch of track – mental. I can see that setting the full thing up on DCC is going to keep me out of trouble elsewhere for some time.

[96RAF]

If it works OK on the rolling road but not the track then you have answered your own questioon. Look for track problem, such as grunge on the rails or slack fishplates giving deadish places on track.