DCC Track don't work?

[96RAF]

The Ali bridges are a good idea TL23. A good basis for an open frame trackbed.

Note to Apple - I have turned off predictive text so why does my iPad still keep writing spellings I didnt type.

[wayne_nicholls]

Yes, a reversing loop, counting from the right, the fourth and sixth sets of points are the problem.

If you take the right turn at the fourth point, go up the gradient, round, over the top, and down again, where the green engine is, you will see that it has swapped directions.

What you need to do is fit a reversing module to the high level loop, and insert two isolating breaks into the track, one by the green engine, and one just past the fourth point, before the climb starts.

Problem solved.

 

I hope you intend supporting that high-level track better than that!

 

[wayne_nicholls]

Thanks guys, a reverse loop it is then!

and by means of track support, I'm still building, trials, the layout is only 8ft by 4ft, support brackets will be widened, etc.

[PJ_model_trains]

Hi Wayne,

 

Have you run your trains and carriages up to ensure they can cope with the incline?

 

Remove a section of track to test, until you get a reverse loop module, best to test as you are building.

 

PJ

[ModelerXYZ]

It is a reverse loop. Use plastic fishplates and you should have no problems. What the others said about gradients is true, tesst with a train. they don't take too well to going upstairs to the next level.

[Graskie]

They can come down fast enough, but, yes, it's getting them up there in the first place. I use mainly diesels on my incline, although a couple of double-headed steam locos might be able to get up there, something I haven't actually tried yet. Just another "to do" on my list. Very easy to find out, though!

[2e0dtoeric]

XYZ - plastic fishplates on their own are no good.

If you think about it, all you have done is make a crude switch, (the gap in the track) with the metal train wheels as the contact!

As soon as a wheel bridges the gap, you have another short circuit.

A long, totally isolated, section is needed, with plastic fishplates at BOTH ends, further apart than the longest possible train, and the reversing module providing power to the section.

[Fishmanoz]

Wayne, you now have 4 pages of replies, confirmations from 5 of us and your photos, telling you just what was suggested in the first 3 replies on page 1 of this thread.  Not trying to say I told you so, just noting it was all explained, including a link to more info on Brian Lambert, in those replies.

 

To summarise the whole lot in one sentence: you have an RL and you must put in it a section longer then your longest train isolated at both ends on both rails with IRJs and you need to switch the polarity of this section as trains enter and leave using an RLM to do it automatically, or manually with a DPDT break before make switch. 

 

Adding some clarification: the switch solution is very much inferior to the RLM and I would only use it as a temporary measure if you can't afford the RLM immediately. You will most certainly make one or more mistakes with a switch and short out your layout. And the RLM will only work reliably if you are using a 4 Amp supply, not the 1 Amp that comes with Select and eLink. So if you don't already have the 4, you will need to buy it when you buy the RLM.

[ModelerXYZ]

XYZ - plastic fishplates on their own are no good.

If you think about it, all you have done is make a crude switch, (the gap in the track) with the metal train wheels as the contact!

As soon as a wheel bridges the gap, you have another short circuit.

A long, totally isolated, section is needed, with plastic fishplates at BOTH ends, further apart than the longest possible train, and the reversing module providing power to the section.

There is a reason I use DC again. but you are right, It does need to be totally isolated. at both ends.

[2e0dtoeric]

Even dc won't work with an uninsulated reversing loop!

If you only have one insulated break, as the loco passes over the break, it will try to go both ways at once!

[wayne_nicholls]

/media/tinymce_upload/IMG_1318.jpg

[wayne_nicholls]

hi, ive just uploaded an image of my layout, ive brought an Reverse Loop Module, and i still cant get it to work.

Can someone please explain simply where to put the two power connecters from the RLM,or if it will work.

I dont think its a tear drop loop as it goes up on track 3 and comes back on track 4.

[wayne_nicholls]

Gap?, what gap?, sorry but i dont understand!

 

[Fishmanoz]

Gap made by the IRJ.

[Fishmanoz]

hi, ive just uploaded an image of my layout, ive brought an Reverse Loop Module, and i still cant get it to work.

Can someone please explain simply where to put the two power connecters from the RLM,or if it will work.

I dont think its a tear drop loop as it goes up on track 3 and comes back on track 4.

 

Wayne, it is a teardrop RL.  The rest of the circuit is your crossover between tracks 3 and 4.

[wayne_nicholls]

Gap made by the IRJ.

Sorry, but whats an IRJ?

[poliss]

IRJ = Insulated Rail Joiner. Like the metal ones, but made from plastic. Also called fishplates.

[wayne_nicholls]

IRJ = Insulated Rail Joiner. Like the metal ones, but made from plastic. Also called fishplates.

Ok, Thanks, so where do i put these IRJ?

[poliss]

At both ends of the reverse loop.

[2e0dtoeric]

I explained where the reversing loop was in my post on page 3, about halfway down.

[Fishmanoz]

Put your IRJs at the start of your incline for one end, and the end of your decline at the other.

 

The input of your RLM goes anywhere you like outside the isolated RL section, and the output anywhere inside the isolated section.  It is the only power source to the isolated section and switches the polarity to match that outside the loop as a train crosses over either entering or leaving the loop.

 

And remember, it will only work reliably if you are using the 4 Amp supply on your DCC controller.