ModelerXYZ

The problem still occours, but I have put a workaround in place as an alternative to turning the whole system off and on again, and that is to put a double pole switch in between the Elite and the Reverse Loop module which means I can reset it without turning off the entire system. XYZ

I am aware that the TGG group is full, otherwise I would have suggested using that. XYZ

I have quite a few Hornby platforms. On my stations there are some sections which have discoloured or needed repairs, and also in some areas I don't want the white flagstones to mark the edge of the platform where they are. Does anyone know what the paint colour would be to repair them? XYZ

But the fact remains that Topcat and P-Henny haven't been seen since the update. XYZ

My inspiration was a layout I saw at one of my mum's friends houses in New Zealand. I don't remember much about it except that they ran HSTs in Swallow livery. I am now involved with the Swindon and Cricklade railway and so I am inspired by their array of steam and diesel locomotives. And I enjoyed the railway series books as a kid so I have a soft spot for the first 8 engines of sir Topham Hatt's railway. After that the numbers just got rediculus. I now like having lights in my buildings as well. XYZ

O gauge tinplate. Made mostly for clockwork engines. XYZ

I haven't got the TT120 tickbox ticked, but I often see posts from it. TT doesn't interest me, I work in 00. The new forums are clunky and hard to manage, some people may not bother. Tis a pity, but I think they did go backwards with the last update. XYZ

Were GWR autotrains kept permanantly coupled? Does anyone know? XYZ

Hi, Welcome. A DCC ready loco is actually an anolouge controlled loco, so it would be right to use on your controller. I don't know anything about the HM7000 system, but if it needs the app to run, I don't want it, I like my DCC setup with my elite. XYZ

What? You mean I can't get the Nike tank engine? XYZ

My logical (or illogical) way would be to number them using the numbers 5-80 as the loco Ids, and then have a paper chart hung up if you can't remember which one is which, and name them on the Elite with a unique name. Like my yellow one is Les 1983 because I got it from my uncle Les and the number on the side is 1983. I like naming locos with their name or number, for example 31 is railcar. as I only have 1 railcar I know which one it is. XYZ

Thanks Bee. Much appreciated. XYZ

I think it might be said fuse tripping RAF. It occours if I get a derailment on the points. It is on the Elite setting as I have a 4A power supply with my Elite. XYZ

Hi guys, its a Hornby module, and on further observation I think that it may reset itself after a while. Otherwise the quick way to make it reset that there is no fault any more is to turn it off and on again.XYZ

Hi everyone. I have obtained this loco from an elderly relative. It is DCC fitted, and I have assigned it the number 29. I would like to know what type of loco it is so I can assign it a profile on Railmaster. I have no idea what manufacturer it was from or anything. Any ideas? XYZ

Hi everyone. As many may know, I run a DCC setup nowadays. I have a triangle on my layout. I had a derailment on one of the points, well within the Insulated Rail Joiners. The Reverse loop module's red light started flashing, but the Elite didn't show a short. This now means that nothing can move on the reverse loop until I turn off the controller and turn it back on as this resets the RLM. It doesn't affect train workings on other lines though they are on the same controller. Would putting a double pole switch in the circuit be an option to avoid turning off the controller each time this happens? Thanks everyone, XYZ

For a small shunting layout, I would reccommend DC. For a large layout, I reccommend DCC, as multiple control stations quickly becomes too much to manage alone. XYZ

My old layout was a split level end to end layout. I had a 9ftx2ft board with another 2ft section width on one end. I had the lower level on DCC, one station with a senic are and a runaround loop, and some sidings and a double run around on the non senic area. The upper level was run on DC. I ran it with a railcar and a tank engine between two stations. anything is possible on an end to end.

I use Side cutters and a file because I don't have a dremel. XYZ

A lot of heritage lines across the UK are not connected to the main line, or stock is not certified to run on the mainline for whatever reason and so it is often delivered by road. My local heratige line has no acess to the national network and so we have all our Locomotives and rollingstock delivered or taken away by road. My local line is the Swindon and Cricklade Railway.XYZ

Downlees Farmstead.

Not impossible. If your carpentry skills are up to it. XYZ

When I wired mine, I had 5 dc controllers, and I had inadvertadly wired some controllers backwards to others. When I re-engineered the line for DCC it shorted. Rookie error on my part, but DC was more forgiving. The dificulties come if you have reverse loops. (or in my case, a triangle). Don't make the same mistake as me, check all DC fittings are wired the same way. You could design it to be switched between the two, either with a double pole Double throw switch or by physically connecting/disconnecting the controller. XYZ.

Because too much water can (and would) damage the cardboard. Or maybe its just I always apply too much water with my watercolours. XYZ

Hi Jon, Welcome to the forum. I don't know, I would have suggested Hattons, but they closed down a month or two ago. According to my recent model railway magazine (I occasionally buy one) Rails of Sheffield may do that. XYZ