ModelerXYZ

The certificates aren't really worth the paper they are printed on. A certified loco is rarely of much more value than an uncertified, non limited edition one. My certified Dominion of Canada loco wouldn't be worth any more than one without a certificate. Model trains are to play with, they don't increase in value. Enjoy running your Eurostar. XYZ

It isn't the end of the line yet. But the rising prices of models mean that new models are unobtainable for a lot of us. I am ok because I have an established amount of rolling stock and also quite a few locos. But I can't really afford to add extra trains to my railway. As I recently took the step to go back to digital, I now need to buy some more DCC decoders, both for trains and accessories. But could a manufacturer go to the wall? Absolutely they might. High prices mean that those who are not high income earners, which includes a lot of younger people and people like me who have other responsibilities (house, Car, ect) cannot afford to buy brand new stuff to keep the manufacturers in business. XYZ

Just above head height. So as I am vertically gifted, I would need to beware of low flying trains. The wider the curves the better. A useful (or maybe useless) peice of information is that standard Hornby points are Radius 2 and express points are radius 4. Its a good call regarding physical barriers to prevent your trains from falling. You have 14 sets of points, you wilmayl want to motorise them. remember that the wiring needs to be somewhere, either top or bottom. as the underneath will be very visible, I would reccommend wiring on top, but that brings complexities both with tools near the ceiling and also hiding the areas by scenery. How are you going to get up to your layout for doing things? Are you going to run your control wires to a more managable height? There are lots of hidden design practicalities that are not visible on the planning software. XYZ

The Elite is a good controller. I quite like the flexibility of running a train with or without railmaster on, and purposely don't have a phone capable of running the app. XYZ

Yes two reverse loops on there. Very useful, but you will need insulated rail joiners both ends of each loop and 2 Reverse loop modules to control them. Not impossible, just make sure you have some method of checking which way the points are set from your operating position. XYZ

I have experienced this problem. Yes, the flangeway isn't deep enough to allow the drum of the wheel to ride over the crossing nose. This results in it riding up on the flangeway and falling off when the flange drops back to the normal depth that it would otherwise run at. I have filed out a few flangeways so that my rolling stock and locos can run through the points without falling off. Its a pain, but it doesn't have to be absolutely precise as the drum of the wheel is running on the (plastic) rail of the nose not the flangeway. In a real setting, the wheel never touches the flangeway between the crossing noses. Noses are the correct english terminolagy, the american language calls them frogs. The check rails exist to stop the wheels from sliding the wrong way and so allowing the train to fall through the track when it passes through the gap on the nose. File them down a bit, its a simple solution to the problem. Peco ones would be the same-there is not much difference in that regard. XYZ

Basically your power supply isn't up to the job of running 2 trains. Its a common problem, and it can be fixed by upgrading the controller. A HM2000 is good because it allows you to control 2 tracks independantly, thereby allowing Scotsman and Smokey Joe to run at different speeds on their own track. The sparking sounds like dirty track-if you have a track cleaning rubber, rub the affected areas to clean it. If you don't, a peice of hardboard will do. Enjoy playing trains. XYZ

I numbered mine starting at 5. Loco decoder 1 was a turntable, and I wanted 3 and 4 free because 4 is the next number to 3, and I think when I got my DCC set, it had two locos adressed 3 and 4 from the factory. XYZ

When would select 1.1 have been active? Before I got my current Elite, I hadn't used the decoders since i gave up on digital in 2016. I had an elite before, definately an early model because it had 2 expressnet ports.I did use DCC for a while between 2011 and 2016, though my controller was mainly the Elite (though I got the select first). As my loco numbers only go up to 31 the loco numbers aren't a problem. Yes, there must be some duffers. Is it possible to update the firmware on the select? XYZ

Hi Stewart- Welcome to the forum. I expect its the same problem as the Original Poster. Do the lights work when the coach is on the track but the scotsman isn't? If so, the problem is as the OP, the controller isn't powerful enough. If they don't except without Chloria in the train there may be something wrong with her. I would check that first and report back. If the first is true, a HM2000 is a good powerful controller to upgrade to. XYZ

I don't know, but BSO is brake second open, so it was a brake coach, with a second class open seating plan at one time. As it is a departmental coach however, I expect it had its seats removed for departmental use. Apparently said coach resides at the Northampton and Lamport railway, however I couldn't find any mention of it on their stock lists. XYZ

I suggested putting them on oppsite sides of a switch so that switching one onto the rail disconnected the other. The idea of a transfer of wagons can't be overlooked, but the two systems cannot be connected together electrically. That was why i suggested what I did. I'm not sure if you could make a small section either end go dead when the wrong power source is connected, its probably not impossible. XYZ

Hi RAF. The brand new decoder works perfectly. In RM I use my Elite as controller A. I can't afford a second one for controller B, so thats empty though I do have a walkabout select connected to the elite for the purpose of a control that is closer when I am at the other end of my layout (near the points I want to control) XYZ

Its possible to do that. The DC locos cannot run on DCC, however what I would do if I was going to put both on my tracks would be to put a pair of insulated rail joiners each end of a switched section and then connect the track on the joining section only, via a Double pole Double throw switch. The middle goes to the track, the top and bottom ones go to the controllers. The dc and dcc controllers are connected to their respective tracks as normal and one either side of the dpdt switch. Remember that a DC loco must NEVER go on a DCC track, and this includes the linking track. It might be worth putting a light on it so that you know which one is controlling it at any time. Thus the linking section should be set to the control that you are using to put the rolling stock on the track. It must also be propelled onto the track at low speed so that the loco doesn't end up at the wrong end. DCC acessories must be connected to the DCC layout. Logically anything is possible. Enjoy building your railway and remember that dc and dcc should never meet. XYZ.

Happy new Year. XYZ

Happy new Year. XYZ

I usually pull my sharge with my (Blue Box) 0-6-2T 5637. It handles points ok, but it is ropey on the level crossings. XYZ

A DCC accessory decoder. Ordered it Wednesday, Delivered today. Great customer service from Hornby. XYZ

Hi Sidozy. Read the sticky getting started thread on this forum its at the top. That should give you some ideas. XYZ

This would be the sort of thing I would do. XYZ

Hi Ptolomey. Welcome to the forum. As stated, the board is too small for a complete circuit, however if you want to do industrial scenes, that may not be a problem. Unfortunately tight curves are the order of the day. It is possible to do an end to end layout. Tight but possible is a short branch with a run around loop each end, you wouldn't need much rolling stock. Don't forget keep it fun. XYZ

I have tried setting up said decoder again-programming via Railmaster this time. I can't get it to work at all. I have come to the conclusion that it won't work and ordered myself another one. One day all the points I can't reach will work from my controller. XYZ

Hi badgers. Yes, Triang wheels have got slightly larger flanges on the wheels which do foul on the track fixings. The waggon wheels will change out for standard hornby ones without too much difficulty. Installing DCC chips in your locos is a different and unrelated problem. XYZ

Its a parcels train, so 2 lamps one in the middle and one left side. XYZ

Yeah True, but a GWR one is the one that looks most like a cattle waggon due to its shape. The toad is about the closest to looking like that. XYZ