Elite Controller LCD display corrupt

[Owlman]

My elite controller LCD display has become corrupt, when switched on from the mains the readout is perfectly legible, however, when in use, the display becomes corrupted with any random letters or numerals appearing. The loco or accessory under control still responds. Has anyone else suffered this and is there anything that can be done?

[Chrissaf]

Yes, it has been reported before. The fix depends upon whether the Elite is in Warranty or not and what your skill levels are. If in Warranty, send it back to Hornby for fix / replacement. If out of Warranty then the fix involves taking it apart if you feel confident enough to try. Else pay Hornby to do it as a 'paid for' repair.

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User RAF96 has repaired LCD display issues and gives an outline procedure in this thread.

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EDIT: RAF's outline procedure is now a detailed procedure posted below. I'm quite comfortable taking things apart and weilding a soldering iron on delicate electronics, but now I've read RAFs detailed procedure......I would send it off for repair. Must be cheaper than buying a brand new replacement if the repair goes belly up & pear shaped.

 

 

 

[RB51]

I think that had better go back to Hornby for repair / replacement (if under warranty). It will not be something you can fix (or should even attempt) unless you are a whizz at this sort of thing. R-

 

Seems my typing speed need some work, Chrissaf got there first. R-

[96RAF]

The problem is likely to be the 'zebra' connector (google it to see how such a simple thing works) that passes info from the Elite to the screen.

The connection (a simple laminated conducting/non conducting rubber strip with a contact press fit on the PCB and the screen) can become unreliable due to delamination of the joint, dirt, etc, but to get to it for cleaning purposes means major dismantling of your Elite. Think twice before doing this - you will probably not break anything doing it, but you can end up with a lot of fiddly loose parts to reassemble.

Easier to send it back to Hornby for them to do it, but if you fancy the aggro....

The dismantling is fairly simple - it involves taking the lower cover off (lots of screws requiring a triangular bit driver (or allen key)), then disconnecting the various ribbon cables by easing back each clamp and removing the screws securing the mainboard before gaining access to the screen board. At some stage you have to remove the speed knobs (just pul off) and securing nuts/shaky washers. Remove the screws securing this board and the screen just pulls away from the zebra connectors. Just peel these off screen and/or pcb.

Caution - if you turn the Elite over whilst doing this all the buttons will fall out of the top cover and they are a real pest to put back in, so watch what you are doing, or be prepared for some aggro reassembling it again.

Remove and clean the zebra connectors both sides with IPA, allow to thoroughly dry and reassemble the bits in reverse order and I think you will have a fully operation screen again.

I did it whilst installing a backlight and it was a fairly obvious procdeure, just take your time and note what you are doing. Murphy's law said that it would go wrong, as after dismantling/reassembling for the backlight mod the screen was garbled so I had to do it all again and clean the connectors, etc, etc. Second time around it was good again

I may have to make a slide show for this job as the fault seems to be more common lately.

 

Seems like my typing skills are in the same ball park Rog as everybody got there before me.

[poliss]

Depends on how old it is. If 6 months old, or less, take it back to the retailer, not Hornby.

[96RAF]

This should be moved to the DCC forum Adam...

@chris - how did you edit your post after I had posted my saga as on my screen the edit option is seemingly time limited and also disappears as soon as another poster submit theirs.

[Michael_A]

I think sometimes as customers we are treated like mugs. The Sale of Goods Act clearly states that goods should be fit for purpose, and the purchaser has 5 or 6 years, depending if you live in Scotland or not, to insist on repairs if they are due to 'inherant' faults (and I would describe something that leads to display connectors requiring cleaning as poor design).

 

Personally if anything I bought, depending on cost as to whether it was worth the hassle, failed within the 5 or 6 year period, I would be pushing the seller for repair, though sometimes this can depend on use and they are allowed to deduct an amount for depreciation / wear and tear, plus it is up to you to prove the fault is an inherant fault, not msiuse or wear and tear. (If you get a report that says this is the case, then the supplier has to refund the cost of the assessment)

 

See http://www.which.co.uk/consumer-rights/regulation/sale-of-goods-act

 

It should be noted of course that these rights may be void if you attempt a repair yourself, so think carefully about which route you want to take....

[Chrissaf]

@chris - how did you edit your post after I had posted my saga as on my screen the edit option is seemingly time limited and also disappears as soon as another poster submit theirs.

Rob,  I've found a workaround to get over the annoying 'time limiting' edit window. Firstly note I use Firefox Browser that has TABS. When I make a post (or reply to a post), I create it on its own dedicated Firefox Browser TAB. As long as I leave that TAB open (with the Blue Edit button showing) in the background, then the edit function remains functional even after the 10 minute window and also after other people have posted too. It takes a lot of concentration to do this, because if my concentration laps and I click on any link on the edit Tab page to move to a different page, that then closes my edit post TAB page, and the option to further edit is lost. If I need to move off of the edit Tab page I am holding open artifically, then instead of left clicking a link, I right click it and choose 'open link in new Tab'. This ensures that the Tab with the Blue edit button remains open.

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Put another way, as long as the Blue Edit button is visible (even if on a Browser Tab not currently being viewed) then the edit function remains functional until such time as that Tab is closed. 

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EDIT: As a demonstration of the above. This edit is nearly half an hour after the original post.

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EDIT: And this edit is an hour after the original post.

[96RAF]

Sneaky Chris - definitely lateral thinking going on there. I often pull up a new tab if say I am looking for a service sheet or download from Hornby to add to a post in progress. I'll do that and leave it open at an edit screen.

I'll try it in IE, of which I prefer the mechanics of use, but which irritatingly falls over time and again.

I just don't like FF, Opera, Google Chrome or even Torch for basic web browsing and forums, etc, although I use Torch exclusively for finding torrents.

 

Edit 1: new tab opened @ 1219 BST

Edit 2: from the new tab which was held open whilst the old tab edit has now closed @ 1253 BST

Edit 3: @ 1322 BST - still working Chris...

[Andy Train]

What is the Elite warranty please

it has to be a minimum of 12 months under the consumer code 

[96RAF]

You have added to a five year old post only vagauely connected to your question, the answer to which is the Elite has a one uear warranty.

 

Some people have reported having their Elite fixed outwith this period without charge and others have reported that their unit was beyond economical repair..