Deem Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 1 hour ago, atom3624 said: Yes, exactly, but ... TBH it looks like that one's on it's way out. That kink is precisely where they normally snap in 2. You can get replacements, they're not expensive. If/when that time comes, you've got a reference photo, there's a little groove in the body anyway, but always glue it well in position, and leave it for 2 days to set properly - even superglue - I've used 2-pack Araldite and various brands of superglue - they do take, but give them a chance to 'cure'. Al. Can I have part number so when I receive this loco I can replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 I think it's Hornby X9091. If Going Spare has some time, perhaps he can confirm? Al. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
What About The Bee Posted July 7 Share Posted July 7 @Deem The return crank must be properly positioned for the oil pump rods to not kink, fatigue and snap. When it comes to this positioning, Atom has written extensively about the task. Based on what he has written, it seems like there is a bit of finesse required and that it is tricky to get correct. Fortunately for me, this didn't exist for my railway of choice, so I need not worry about it. But you do. Do not just replace the part. Make sure to get the return crank positioned just so, as well. Bee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 (edited) 3 hours ago, What About The Bee said: @Deem The return crank must be properly positioned for the oil pump rods to not kink, fatigue and snap. When it comes to this positioning, Atom has written extensively about the task. Based on what he has written, it seems like there is a bit of finesse required and that it is tricky to get correct. Fortunately for me, this didn't exist for my railway of choice, so I need not worry about it. But you do. Do not just replace the part. Make sure to get the return crank positioned just so, as well. Bee I have learned this lesson the hard way, when I broke the part few years back and had to install new one, but couldn't remember the part number. I did manage to install correctly last time I had to change it, so I am positive I shouldn't have any issue this time either. Also depending on arrival of the loco, maybe I can fix this bent part or maybe need to replace. Will update accordingly. Regards Edited July 8 by Deem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 @Deem Atom3624's memory did not fail him, X9091 is indeed the R2930 Princess Coronation speedometer drive replacement part number. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 Thanks GS. Must admit I have a few 'spares', guilty as charged I remove from packaging to try and reduce the 'spares / repairs' storage space required - reference was 'Googled', but was for slightly older, same generation Coronations. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted July 8 Share Posted July 8 Which, as this is yet another of the models still not covered by a Service Sheet (and now probably never will be), was basically my approach, too. I had to check slightly earlier and slightly later releases of the same loco type, both of which were showing the same part number so there seemed no reason why the OP's model should be any different. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 On 07/07/2024 at 17:50, atom3624 said: Yes, exactly, but ... TBH it looks like that one's on it's way out. That kink is precisely where they normally snap in 2. You can get replacements, they're not expensive. If/when that time comes, you've got a reference photo, there's a little groove in the body anyway, but always glue it well in position, and leave it for 2 days to set properly - even superglue - I've used 2-pack Araldite and various brands of superglue - they do take, but give them a chance to 'cure'. Al. Well Loco arrived today, as predicted, as I just touched the kink and it broke in 2. It seems nobody have them in stock at all. Only one I have seen is available, that is included with body shell at £50.00 which is way to expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 Remove #1. As you are going to replace it, get a firm grip with a good pair of pliers and tease by firmly / gently wobbly this and pull it out of it's slot - it will be bonded in, so a fair amount of 'gentle persuasion' will be required. Each time you move slightly, listen out for creaks. It's never happened to me, but doesn't mean it cannot. I've changed perhaps 5 or 6 in the last 4 years on my locos - not a lot, but not a one-off either. Araldite works well, but needs a couple of days to set - don't let any glue affect #2 - it doesn't need to move, but does pivot here and nice to keep that. Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 10 Share Posted July 10 I have tried to repair the speedo cable and although it's not very near repair but it seem to be working for now. So until I can get hold a new one (which is available on pre order from lendon of Cardiff for £1.99) I will leave this as it is on the loco. I will upload a video little later or tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 (edited) WhatsApp Video 2024-07-11 at 15.14.35.mp4 16 hours ago, Deem said: I have tried to repair the speedo cable and although it's not very near repair but it seem to be working for now. So until I can get hold a new one (which is available on pre order from lendon of Cardiff for £1.99) I will leave this as it is on the loco. I will upload a video little later or tomorrow. Edited July 11 by Deem 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 I would crop the 'speedo cable' to stub ends and replace with a bit of heat shrink tube, held at that curve as it cured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 11 Share Posted July 11 17 minutes ago, 96RAF said: I would crop the 'speedo cable' to stub ends and replace with a bit of heat shrink tube, held at that curve as it cured. Good idea but for me to do this job, I will have to buy magnifying glass because without it I cannot see, even the repair I have done so far, I used my phone camera to take picture than zoom in to see what I am doing. The reason I am not buying magnifying glass is, I will start building my first ever layout soon, so I don't want to buy something which may not be suitable for me or my setup. Once I have done layout then will decide what type of Magnifying glass to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The son of Triangman Posted July 12 Share Posted July 12 (edited) The latest projects have been an easy fit motorising kit for the Hornby level crossings and brand new pantographs for Tri-ang loco's. The first pre-production sample of the pantographs arrived a couple of weeks ago, a few adjustments to make. Edited July 12 by The son of Triangman 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 14 Share Posted July 14 So today on my work bench is this, everyone is welcome. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bulleidboy Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 I cannot find my workbench at the moment😟 - absolute chaos in the railway room. Having had the new windows fitted, and the removed board now replaced, track relaid, ballasted and reconnected to the bus cables, loco's can now run from one end of the layout to the other😀. However, I am having a rethink about storage space, and with B&Q base and wall units sitting under my boards, they need to be repositioned - having been placed in their current positions some ten years ago. So hopefully by the end of the day a degree of normality will have returned😊. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 On 07/07/2024 at 23:43, atom3624 said: I think it's Hornby X9091. If Going Spare has some time, perhaps he can confirm? Al. Generally Hornby and all the normal spares suppliers have run out of them. Probably because everyone forgets to remove it before they take the body off. They should have made it attach to the chassis which is what I think other manufacturers do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 Keep looking out for them - they're like buses! Al. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 3 hours ago, ColinB said: Generally Hornby and all the normal spares suppliers have run out of them. Probably because everyone forgets to remove it before they take the body off. They should have made it attach to the chassis which is what I think other manufacturers do. I have placed pre order with Lendon of Cardiff and lets hope I get them sooner than later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Going Spare Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 Expensive at £10.84 as a special order from Lendons (dearer elsewhere) but the Lord Nelson speedo drive X7303 looks to be very similar, although the length of the flexible drive itself is difficult to gauge from website illustrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 7 minutes ago, Going Spare said: Expensive at £10.84 as a special order from Lendons (dearer elsewhere) but the Lord Nelson speedo drive X7303 looks to be very similar, although the length of the flexible drive itself is difficult to gauge from website illustrations. That is a lot. Must be what Hornby are charging, Lendons are a really honest company, they have refunded the over postage for something I ordered on special order, not many people do that. I have never fitted one to Lord Nelson so I don't know, most of them do seem to be roughly the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Too Tall Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 (edited) One S/H but like brand new Bachmann non DCC ready LMS Jinty. New DCC chassis, speaker/N18 housing and PCB from Bachmann Spares, tank sides wet and dried to remove LMS number and lettering as well as fix a scratch I caused. resprayed tank sides awaiting BR decal application. YouChoos Zimo Sound decoder fitted and Road and Rails upgrade speaker for Bachmann fitted. It does sound better than my factory Sound fitted LMS version, so may have to upgrade the speaker on that to the Road and Rails one ! Edited July 17 by Too Tall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 I bought a K1 off North Yorkshire Moors Railway in their loco shed shop. Second hand but it looks like it has never been used, even still had the packing piece between loco and tender. Weird really everything else in there was quite expensive but this was a very reasonable price. Really nice loco. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deem Posted July 17 Share Posted July 17 3 hours ago, ColinB said: That is a lot. Must be what Hornby are charging, Lendons are a really honest company, they have refunded the over postage for something I ordered on special order, not many people do that. I have never fitted one to Lord Nelson so I don't know, most of them do seem to be roughly the same. Way too expensive for this tiny part X7303 I will wait for the X9109 to be become available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atom3624 Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 (edited) R3983 LNER 2007 PoW has been 'detailed up' and now I've fitted the high voltage electricity warning stickers she'll probably be 'wearing' once she finally takes to the rails - now said to be 2027. Edited July 27 by atom3624 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now