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Welcome. Need to be patient. You get good communications, but it took nearly 2 months to receive - seem to make / get them made on a batch basis, so depends on other requests it appears! Al.

Does it have a box? Is it 'tender drive' - motor in tender and actual locomotive wheels just free-running - turning as the loco is pushed along? Is it 'loco drive' - drive is direct to the 10 locomotive driving wheels? Does it have a 'pin and fingers' connection for the drawbar between the locomotive and tender - and they are easily separated? Is the tender connected to the locomotive with a metal drawbar - screw at both ends - with a 2- or 4-cable white micro plug which plugs into the tender? Al.

info@lightrailwaystores.co.uk That's the contact email address. Site: https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/collections/custom-etched-products Al.

They were custom made nameplates from a company I found within Google - cost £10 roughly. Al.

New motor installed - I'm one of those annoying impatient types at times! - so I'll just reassemble and see how she goes tonight. I suspect the old 08 needs a bit of a clean as well, but there was a huge difference in performance between the old and new motors, so I thought I'd swap to the new one. Al.

Just received a replacement motor for my hard-worked BR blue class 08 shunter. It'll be a combination of the motor and a good clean, but I'll get it going reliably again. My fault for setting it going and leaving for hours on end .... no regrets as always looked great trundling around the rails! Al.

I always fit the extra detailing - lamps, hoses, brake rigging and drain pipes. I've never had a problem with the streamlined Coronations, when using the larger wheels - all mine used the alternative bogies. I DO have issues every time with the new-tooling non-streamlined Coronations - sides of the bogies always catching the drainpipes. I've resolved this 2 different ways with 2 locomotives - Gloucester and SWAS. One I've simple found a 'previous tooling' bogie and fitted that - without the side castings which catch on the pipes. The other I've removed the wheels temporarily, then used tin snips on the side castings, trimming bit-by-bit until the locomotive can safely negotiate all 'important' curves. Both options work. Of course, once 'snipped, before replacing the wheels, I spray up the bogie again, so its all black. Al.

I know when I've looked online in the past, Carnforth is not for general public access any more - other times there appear to be open days, so don't know from me! I used to like to turn up at random - weekends - in the 70's after having convinced Mum, Dad and Big Bruv to go ... and generally it was open. Back to the model, Sam is right, with the coreless motor, very little power is required, low speed control is excellent, but she's a real flyer if 'full power' is engaged - Gaugemaster D - DC Operation. I swapped out the tyred drivers, running non-tyred ... Jury's out as she's getting bogged down / wheels more-than slipping too frequently with 4 very free-running LMS Hornby super detail coaches. I'm going to replace the tyred wheels again I reckon, as, with quite a surprise, the low speed performance is absolutely superb as well - I want to take advantage of this into / out of the little through station, instead of 'storming off'. Al.

Small world indeed. That model railway was a masterpiece. I remember the LMS Duchess hauling 15 coaches around it at a quite reasonable speed! ... and the model of Hardwicke - decades before this one came out. I also remember seeing 3 Black 5's together! It was also my first sighting of a BR Blue Sir Nigel Gresley - quite a little treasure trove of a site! Al.

Well here she is - beautiful little model. Diecast running plate and boiler + coal - detailing looks just like the real one I remember - had a black roof when I saw her 'though. I reckon I'll swap out the traction tyred wheels for the plain ones - Sam said she's fine without tyres ...... !! (Fun aside, I do prefer them without tyres, and a prototypical load is pretty light for these locos - maximum tractive effort was only ~10,000 lb !!

Got some nameplates made for my 60700 W1:

Glad it worked. Al.

Try a 'dry run' before the reassembly. It should be a nice snug fit. Many will have their modus operandi, but I have simply pushing into position, reassembled all fingers and thumbs, and gently screwed into position. If it comes out now, you should be able to rotate the screw, with nut attached until it realigns. Al.

Thanks to GS for clarifying these details. Didn't think it had an idler, hence asking for the 'R' number. When removing one wheel - observe the 'quartering' - it must be very close to how you found it to ensure smooth operation, plus I always remove as straight, smoothly and 'firmly / gently' as possible to avoid deforming / damaging the insulating bush. The gear wheel should just push (or fall if broken) off. Replacing with the new - slowly and as straight as possible, into the same position. Quartering - there are little tools available (see Ebay - I found one there once). I always do it 'by eye', but this is quite critical. Next, there's the 'B2B' - Back-to-Back. Normal uniform throughout the wheel rotation is 14.3-14.5mm maximum between the flanges. Al.

By the looks of it, it's a classic 'workbench routine special'. For the drivers, is this a really old locomotive, or relatively recent tooling? Relatively recent - last 20 years - tooling locomotives have a screwed on keeper plate. Once removed the drivers should lift out. Idler is probably a gentle / firm 'punch' / push out, and replace similarly. Can you confirm which model Jinty it is - 'R' number? Al.

Drawbars are cheap to purchase, but be careful - only bend slowly and little-by-little. Totally agree, should be flat. Make sure also the bar fits over the should of the screw and tighten as so - permitting free movement of the drawbar - looks like it me be jammed under the shoulder of the screw in the photo, might be wrong. Al.

It sounds as if the drawbar has either been bent, or has been replaced the wrong way around. Al.

Not one to set a precedent, I've just bought one, an 'Improved Precedent', on offer at 'a major model retailer'. Relating to another thread, I used Sam's Trains' previous video to help me consider if there was anything I really didn't like. I remember seeing her at Carnforth years ago, and also a model running on their previous, fantastic model railway. Al.

I was thinking the retaining screw had either come loose, or had become loosened - perhaps to indicate the mounting. That slotted T-bracket should be tight in-between the cylinders, the bogie sliding and pivoting to permit it to negotiate the curves. Al.

A review is a very subjective event - one / or group perhaps - person(s)' opinion related to what they consider to be the fundamentally key issues / points of interest. This borne in mind, it's no surprise there are many 'dislikers' of Sam's videos. I often use Sam as an interesting reference point - bearing in mind the subjective opinions - to assist in making a potential purchase decision. I could be looking at motor performance, lamp bracket / cab detail, etc. - things not necessarily mentioned by Sam but which I'll be looking at during the video. Other details could be body removal / servicing - how easy / difficult. These videos are very helpful to me, whilst only occasionally listening to what he's actually presenting. Al.

'Older' period Gresley locos have an 'oiler' only, which is what this is. Not sure if TT still requires a 2.5mm hex driver, or is it smaller? Looks like you need to carefully remove the tiny screw, lift the link off the cam - should be shaped and the hole actually ovalled to orientate it, then the body should be free. I could be wrong, but perhaps when you tried to lift the body off, with this attached, it misaligned it, so make sure you locate it properly when you replace it. Once I remove either the oiler, or the speedo drives (late BR steam locos have the speedo drive as well - great fun) I normally replace the screw so the coupling rod doesn't flop about everywhere and/or I don't lose the screw. State the obvious, but a 'gentle nip' is all that's needed on replacing - these are very easily snapped!! Hope it helps. I'm very familiar with the OO version, but this looks very similar. Al.

One thing to watch is how 'vintage' those wagons are. In the last 20+ years, wheel profiles have changed, so correct in thinking to change - they will benefit from modern pin-point axles** and insulated metal wheels. **Older rolling stock had round-ended axles essentially pushed through holes in metal chassis 'axles boxes', with plastic wheels on (to ensure no short-circuits). The pin-point axles will require care / modification to insert (it is possible) and probably 'bearing inserts' (essentially brass 'cups' into which the pin-points of the axles will rest) - not easy. Older wagons may also be a lot 'stiffer', so you may be limited to the length of trains your little 0-4-0's can haul. 1st radius for small locomotives and wagons should be fine, but generally avoid for general use. One time where 'bigger is better'. Al.

Station could be on the inside of the track, or even tacked onto the outside, or perhaps make a 'wobbly oval' with a pinched waist look? Al.

Have they included the cylinder drain 'snort' half of the preserved locomotives, particularly ex Stanier LMS locomotives seem to develop? !! How about discharging water vapour by the cylinders on start up? OK, a bit much. Thanks Rob, I've seen the little 'daisy wheel' idea to synch chuffs on other models - could be interesting on a Lord Nelson!! Al.

6 chuffs per revolution as well!! Finally! Agreed, it looks good. Al.