-
Posts
1,432 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Articles
Gallery
Posts posted by Sailorman
-
-
Ratch, the kit had alternative parts for a beret or the wide brimmed hat. I'v moulded both. I can either:
a) glue on the beret,
b) glue on the wide brimmed hat or
c) glue none of them and send you both. You might opt to drill a short length of rod into the head and drill holes into the hat and beret. That way when you feel like you out change them over.
These are pics of the two options:
/media/tinymce_upload/5ed794217240c9709d0863231a27ff2b.jpg
/media/tinymce_upload/542087b6ef7d28951c4fbfa8c0e1ed2b.jpg
-
I've also started assembling the parts. I thought I had better do this to compare the parts to the kit parts. The thing is it is difficult to ensure the two moulded halves of each item are the correct thickness unless you compare to the kit. You can see the progress in the photo I've just posted. To be honest I am very pleased with the result. so far. Fingers crossed it all goes together properly!
The white stuff on the model is dust from the sanding operation. Will wash it away soon.
-
Progress .....
All parts have been moulded:
/media/tinymce_upload/42989717d515da4514097a016ce83315.jpg
-
Hi Ratch, New moulds seem much better.The detail is there but I think I'll clean them up a bit and prime them before I send them to you. That way I can check that the various halves when joined together are the same "size" as the original kit.
Today I cast the shorts, (both halves), the front chest and the two halves for the head. The base I cast yesterday was ok.
6 parts down and only 26 to go! Tomorrow I'll try to do as many as possible once the system seems to be working.
The "flaws" you see on the chest are not actually flaws ...they are bits of dust that got into the resin. The are inside and don't affect the surface.
/media/tinymce_upload/d4741b26b19d96d1905f98871e25abec.jpg
/media/tinymce_upload/31e8859d6ef20c496d89bb56e484de4d.jpg
-
I tried that. It is why some of the parts are grey. The pimples aren't visible when the part first comes out of the mould. I'm just about to try another set.
-
1st Attempt.
The shoes, beret and hat have been moulded using the blue silicone moulds. However, they have resulted in a pimply finish. The base was moulded using a plastacine mould. The finish was much better. You can see some other arms and sleeves but again they came out of the blue moulds. The shorts were moulded in a plastacine mould and came out quite well.
Not really happy with the results but it was a first attempt.
Today I'll try a 2nd batch of moulds using plastacine to see whether I can do better.
/media/tinymce_upload/cd5fc5cb3fd5bb7e202d23975e3e695c.jpg
-
I personally prefer a number of thin coats to one thick coat.... whether brush applied or airbrush. So yes.
-
I promised Ratch I would try to mould a Boy Scout off my old kit. I had put it off as I will be moving house soon and everything is in boxes ...however the move has been delayed by a few weeks so I pulled everything out again. I've bought some silicone moulding putty and today I tried preparing a mould. It seemed to work.... so I went on and prepared moulds of other parts. Tomorrow I'll buy some resin and see what happens. I will say this, if it works Ratch is going to have lots of sanding to do to get the parts to fit together!!
/media/tinymce_upload/92e952f6104f13d265babe6f6498983c.jpg
/media/tinymce_upload/acd71204af8d6a266bb448a61c09679a.jpg
-
I bought the Beetle for my grandson. To my shame I mixed up the front and rear bumpers as I was building it with him and had a worrying few minutes till I noticed my mistake!!
-
Do you mean just on the clear parts or on the painted areas too?
-
Looking good.....looking forward to following this build!
-
Great build ..... it looks "just like the real thing" .......brilliant!
-
Will.s - Just a thought,
Did you wash the model with warm soapy water and rinse it well BEFORE you started painting? If you don't wash the model you'll find the paint doesn't go on evenly.
You need to clean-off the mould release agent.
-
will.s,
Explain the problems you are having to us and we'll try to help out.
I must admit I tend not to use the little pots of paint on ships / aircraft but that is mostly because I am used to, and prefer, the enamels that come in little tins.
I have used some paint from the little paint pots on dinosaurs and figures and I must admit I was very pleased with the results.
I did however thin the paints down with water as described by Pretty mediocre modeller........
As a rule it's always best to go for a couple of thin coats rather than one thick application of paint.
-
/media/tinymce_upload/ea391e811ae7c6cb56dd91a06240744a.JPGI remember having problems with the front mudguards but it turned out ok in the end.
-
Wow FAAMAN, You're really into the A4!
I remember I went through a similar phase when none of the kits being produced of my favourite subject (P-51D ) were accurate enough with the result that I ended up never building one for years!
Then I attended a work seminar during which the speaker asked us what was our Architectural Practice there for. We all went on about the quality of buildings etc etc. He said WRONG. Your Practice exists for one thing. Profit. If you don't make a profit your firm will go under and pop go all your good intentions.
I realised then that the same thing applies to models. A manufacturer can only devote a limited number of hours to research if he ever hopes to realise a profit. He must make sure that his product is good .... indeed good enough to satisfy 90% of his clients to achieve enough sales to generate a profit that will allow him to continue in business.
The truth is he will never ever satisfy the last 10% no matter how hard he tries and how much time (and money) he spends trying to do this.
And that is where model making as opposed to kit building comes in. One takes the bare kit and corrects the faults one sees in it.
Don't get me wrong ..... it would be great if all kits were manufactured to be perfect replicas. Realistically speaking though this is impossible and would result in kits being so expensive that no one could ever afford to buy them.
Have you thought of writing to the author of that article and discussing the matter with him? I've done that in the past with other articles and found the authors only too happy to discuss the issues.
Patrick
-
Very nice Roy!
If you are interested there was an article in Scale Models way back in the 70's that explained how you could go about building wire wheels. I might be able to track it down if you are interested.
I'm in the process of moving house ..... so most of my stuff is now in boxes. My Magazine collection hasn't been packed yet ........
-
Hi Paul, Why was the Canberra altered?
I though you were talking about the SHIP not the plane! My mistake!
-
Its the original Airfix boxing complete with the JCB. Dapol sold them separately. I don't know about their current availability.
Yes, both the Lowmac and the JCB are available from Dapol. The Airfix version is becoming rather difficult to find. I'm still looking for an Airfix 0-6-0 tank engine...... That one is not available from Dapol.
-
Generally spoke, I think single engine planes are much easier to realize and sell.
Ah..... but just think how lovely a DH Comet Racer would be to 1:24. I suppose there's no chance of that happening before the planet warms up!
-
There's a 1:24 Hellcat in this years catalogue......so you can tick that one off!
-
Yes,
There is a product called Modelstrip. It is a creamy sort of paste. You coat the parts you want to clean with it, place them in a plastic bag and leave it overnight. You wash the paste off the next day and the paint goes with it. It works best with gloss enamels and slightly less well with matt paints. The paint comes away bringing the plastic parts back to pristine condition. The material is very aggressive so take care when using it.
This is what my france parts looked like before I started restoring it:
/media/tinymce_upload/c482b623a9c62f2c84749d0382eb7946.jpg
And this is how they looked after cleaning!
/media/tinymce_upload/8e2865f076ae9cd5432cb0e814e4a7ea.jpg
-
Looks very good even with the printed backdrop!
-
I used the gold foil from Rollo packets for my lunar module.
I had built 1 Saturn V in 1969 and hadn't painted the white areas as I couldn't see how I could do it neatly. Some 30 years ago I had built another and had used a spray can ..... but the colour has tended to yellow over time.
Satin white (Humbrol 130) goes on really nicely with an airbrush and I am getting very good results with it on my ships. I'll use that on my next attempt. (I have another 3 or 4 Saturn V's in my stash and another Skylab / Saturn V).
There are a number of good articles in Airfix Scale Model World.
- December 2010 - Saturn V
- October 2011 - The last of the Breed - Saturn V + Skylab
- January 2011 - The Eagle has Landed - Lunar Module
There was also an article in Scale Models some years back which included drawings showing which areas were covered by gold / black foil. If anyone is interested I could look it up.
Patrick
Boy Scout
in Figures, Dioramas & Scenery
Posted
Unfortunately I didn't manage to do any work on the Scout today. I hope I'll find some time tomorrow. I'm setting myself a target date of next Saturday to complete the moulding / building stage. Then I'll mail it to Ratch and he can paint it whilst I go back to building mine!!!