81F

Thanks for the warning about the couplng especially as I am developing a brass replacement to couple the chassis to a Bachmann G2A tender for a project I am working on

Currently I have 3 B12 chassis on my work bench, bought off ebay as "noisy runners but nor too bad. Having trouble with one as it keeps jamming when in reverse at low speed , but has got better after re-quartering the back set of wheels. the other one kept faltering even on the rolling road but that was fixed after removing the pickup plate and bending the wipers otwards to ensure the the remained in contact with the wheels. The third just needed an oil. All ready for my LNWR Prince of Wales Project once I have worked out how which wire from a Bachmann 21 pin G2A tender needs to connect to what on the B12 chassis.

Autocoaches were certainly uncoupled for the reasons given above and also if the loco was needed for another use (e.g. freight). The loco would also need to be uncoupled to run round if a non Auto fitted coach was tacked onto the end of the train. I recall reading one of Harold Gasson's books about his time as a GWR fireman in which he mentions that in addition to uncoupling the usual coupling, vacuum and steam heating pipes, the fireman would also have to uncouple a whistle change. Failure to do this would result in a peep from the loco whistle as the chain broke. He did specvulate that this was a fairly common occurrence because of the number of photographs he had seen with bits of string holding the two ends of the chain together! If you do not know already the reason for the maximum of two coaches from the loco was that the apparatus (which I believe just controlled the regulator was mechanical and it would have been too heavy to operate with more coaches. In addition to the regulator I understand the only other control aside from the whistle, was the vacuum break which worked by simply allowing air into the system (so no linkage involved). However, this did mean that the fireman had to look after the reverser (which was not just for reversing the loco but controlled the cut-off point for steam entering the cylinders). Interestingly, RAFs photo shows a small prairie in an Auto train formation, however these locos were not Auto fitted until after nationalisation.

Hi All, Does anyone know if Mentholated Spirit is likely to harm modern paint finishes on rtr rolling stock or more accurately a solution of 3 parts meths to one of water as I need to use this in order to apply some 'Methfix' transfers. Also is this likely to harm acrylic paints? Also is there anything I might need to know before I seal the transfers with an acrylic varnish. Although I have used these in the past that was before acrylic paint became available. Many thanks for any help.

Thanks Bee for some thought provoking comments. My intention is to re-use the B12 pony truck, although I am toying with the idea of getting some slightly larger diameter wheels. At 3'9" the prototype's would scale to 15mm whereas the B12 model's are only 13mm. However, do you think raising the front coupling by 1mm is likely to cause trouble with it operationally, although I could probably mitigate some of the additional height by replacing the plastic one with a metal version and bending it down slightly? You make a very good point about the strength of fine detail plastic. My thoughts about the frame is to follow Triang's example with the B12 and add the frame detail to the body and have cut-outs over the wheels (see blue in image below) . However I would reduce the cut-outs radius sit the edge is much closer to wheel flanges. The ones on the B12 feel around 2mm above the flanges of the wheels so I think I'll try reducing this to around 1mm. Once the dummy frames have been added I will probably also thicken up the material between them where it cannot be seen. Depending upon what I find when my most recent test print comes back I will look again at lowering the body to match the Bachmann tender. I will also have to lower the steps so they match up with the tender. On the model in the photo, the running plate is about 1mm too high whereas the bottom step is about 2mm too high. This will probably mean yet another test print with a boiler cut-out to check the clearance from the top of the motor. However I will take the opportunity to try out the alternative front end detail shown above.

Sadly the paint has now pickled on one side (hence only a view of the left side. However as this was just a test it doesn't really matter. However, I think it shows that I will need tpo do the final print in a fine detail plastic rather than PA12 which is a lot cheaper. However, I have been working on the tender and will probably use the 21 pin socket in that to convert to DCC so have designed a new drawbar to link the B12 Chassis to the Bachmann G2A tender. A test print is being made by Shapeways (in PA12 plastic) but I will probably do it in brass ones I have checked the clearance. At the moment the tender is coupled using a spare Triang/Hornby Hall drawbar but aside from being a bit sloppy the tender also looks a little distant. I have also added some more detail to the boiler and hopefully resolved the problem of the missing chimney top but I will not know for sure until my next Shapeways delivery towards the end of the month I am still not sure whether to add the chassis above the pony truck to the chassis extension or the body, but the photo clearly shows it is needed.

@LGH10@lghten, All you need now is a smoke generator that chucks out a load of black smoke on startup! but I don't think anyone makes them for diesels

Reading this thread got me thinking about how we are missing one aspect associated with Railways. Thanks to sound decoders we have the Chuff Chuf, wheels squealing, whistles and other noises. But what about smell! Being mostly a GWR fan I would favour "eau de charbon à vapeur Gallois" (eau de Welsh stem coal)!

Hi Chappers The GWR did indeed remove the engine and convert these to Auto-coaches and that is how this one survived. However, I am not sure if a model of a converted one would be quite right as the one pulling it would have probably been converted at the same time. However, the GWR did build Auto-coaches specifically to work with the rail-motor. However, these had quite different window spacing from the conversions. Sadly none of the Auto-trailers produced to date (Collett and Hawkesworth type) would be suitable since they are too modern. However, Dapol say they will be making an Auto-coach based on the GWR Diagram N These which were constructed during 1907 which is right time frame for the rail-motor but I don't think these were the ones built for the railmotors as they look shorter (sadly I cannot find my copy of GWR coaches by J Russel to confirm). however, I have pre-ordered a couple of these . My only concern is that the Maroon might not match but hopefully any difference in the chocolate and cream will not be noticeable. In the meantime you might want to consider getting one of the Dapol suburban toplights. Although I do not know if the Rail-motors ever pulled these, it wouldn't look too out of place except they are a slightly different shade of maroon.

An Ivatt 2-6-0 dating from mis 70s. Have remotored it and had fitted a Dcc chip. It ran at full spees with no problem but when run at a slower more prototypical speed it produced an error at exactly the same point on the wheels rotation and tended to be a bit stiff at that point as well. I think the problem was the axle touching the back of the con-rod and creating a short. The rear drivers were slightly out of quarter. so it no longer shorts when pushing it along. However with all the taking apart and testing the red wire has come off the chip so will have to hard wire another one 😞

Sprayed the body gloss black last night to show up any blemishes only to find that the top of the chimney is totally flat without the capuchon and ridge around the top. This would explain the loose washer floating around the bag when the print arrived. Thankfully before I ordered a revise print last night Shapeways diagnostics picked up the "loose shell" so I hope I've fixed it. Sadly the paint is still sticky so I won't be able to photograph it before I loose the light, so will use the time to try and remove the paint from the Bachmann tender top I intend to use before moving onto some coal rails.

Many thanks Bee, Just been probing around at the back of where body and fount that there is a slight step (see below) between the internal rear surface of the cab and the lower part of the body. Although this cannot be more than 1/2mm it is probablt just enoght for the body to pivot upwards as the screw is below it. I have fixed it now but probably too late for the latest test print 😞

Just got the test print back ordered on the 6th March and the cab handrails actually printed. Sadly the steps look too narrow so my latest version has this widened slightly. I've also added more detail on the boiler and enlarged the secondary splasher over the con-rods to accommodate some beading, correct an error in the curved bit at the front and give more clearance for the con-rods themselves. Although the body now sits level it tends to rise up at the front when I tighten the body screw so Ive lowered this again by around 1/4mm since this reduced the problem compared with the last print. Sadly the chassis extension is too short and slightly too thick to fit in the slot in the body so I've increased the height of the slot and lengthened the extension which might also stop the body from lifting when the body scre is tightened. In addition, I have discovered that the buffers had six rivits to hold them onto the buffer beam rather than so I may decide to reprint these if I find any other problems with the brass fittings. As soon as the light is good enough and I have time to take a picture I will post one.

Purchased a second hand tender-drive GWR King in allegedly good condition but found the slide bars slightly bent. Also it had a BR logo on tender yet the body was clearly GWR. but given that it was less than £30 including P&P I was not bothered as I intend to strip out the motor, severely weather it and use it in a scrap train minus con-rods. However, with a bit of a service and straightening of the bent parts, I could probably get it running again, so I've put it back into the project drawer for something to think about later while I focus on my 3D printed LNWR Prince of Wales body project.

Sadly I think someone has already done the Baltic on Shapeways, however if I stick with the LNWR its only a small change to make an Experiment Class, except I would have to paint those Green Wheels. I also have a Hornby Triang Hall Chassis fitted with Hornby Saint wheels from an aborted attempt to make a Star. I do have an idea for this but it will depend on my ability to create a tapered boiler and an eight wheeled tender.

Also the nameplates

Another digital preview showing reduced boiler diameter. Note the greater distance between the smoke-box door and line of rivets

I read in another post that someone suggested using 22mm tube for the boiler. Looking at the drawings I think this is about right as I rather stupidly took the diameter from a front view which of course was the larger diameter smoke box! regarding clearance I think the top of the boiler was about the right height so I've also raised the boiler axis by half the reduction in diameter so the inside of the boiler should remain at the same level. This also gives a little more daylight under the boiler and raises the smoke-box door which looks better.

Drat - I've just realised the boiler diameter I used is approx 2mm too large! 😞 I have fixed the model but will await the test print to see if there is anything else that needs fixing before I order the final version in the more expensive fine detail material. At least the cab glasing, brass buffers and safety valves look to be OK. The test print of the name plates look OK but I have had toi redo these with a more suitable style of font, but still need to get the size of the letters on a standard LNWR straight nameplate to get the sizing correct.

I've always found that the split chassis locos the best runners (Mainline/Bachmann 78XX, 2251, 43XX, 57XX 03 etc.). The only downfall being the conversion to DCC and that the bond between the insulating part of the axles failing leading to the quartering going out. Sadly it is for this reason that I have withdrawn two of my Mainline 43XX having obtained the DAPOL versions. However they will not go to waste as they will be repainted into BR plain black, heavily weathered and will make up a train of withdrawn locos going for scrap once the con-rods are removed.

Perhaps we may see some more Hattons Genesis coaches beyond those already to be fulfilled by Rails

Can you tell us which LIMA loco it is? Thankfully most of the LIMA loco's I have are very easy to work on be it hard wiring a DCC decoder or just servicing especially their British outline Diesels.

Please can I have some help with sizing some some straight LNWR nameplates I am working on for the LNWR Prince of Wales loco I am working on (see thread elsewhere). Although I think I have the general shape and layout OK, I need to find out the height of the main letters in the name "Edith Cavell". Looking at photos I think most of the name plates used a standard size so if anyone is passing one of the preserved LNWR locos I would be grateful if someone could measure a letter for me and let me know the approximate size.

Below is a Digital preview of the above CAD model after it was uploaded. I have separated the buffers and safety valve to enable them to be printed in Bronze so they are more robust The current test print won't be back until the end of this month at the earliest so will probably start another project for another spare B12 Chassis I have.

Given the amount that the B12 chassis extension sticks out and its proximity to the smoke-box door , I've decided to 3D print my own shorter version. This should allow me to enclose the slot and add more detail. I have now ordered a new test print of the main body with the slot covered and extra detail along with a plain chassis extension which I will be able to cut to get the right length before re-printing at the correct length with possibly more detail. Below is a screenshot of the CAD model.