BR63

Taking different tack.... remove the front bogie and rear truck as RAF suggested. Now with no power running place the main engine on the track and with a finger push the engine through the turnout with a finger behind the firebox. If you feel a resistance as it goes through then you don't have an electrical problem it is a mechanical problem. Perhaps the B2B as previously mentioned,there is a small foriegn body in the gap between the stock and check rail or the main wheel flanges are too wide. Run the front bogie and rear truck the same way. Hope this helps.

Many thanks Chrissaf. Appreciated

Chrisaf ... would the same wiring layout be suitable for Seep PM1 motors using cetnre sprung off switches?

Ok. So the horse is pushing but the barge is being pulled. Every action has an equal and opposite reaction. Simple mechanics (Newton's Third Law of Motion as I remember from my school days!) Personnal I would prefer to push rather than pull. Pushing sends the action through the whole body to the feet where the reaction occiurs. Pulling is placing the same action wholly in the arms and hence the arm socket.

Like RAF I have used clear plastic offcuts and glued (UHU) the figures to them. They are made from plastic glazing sheets that used to hold Metcalfe glazing pieces. About 10mm sqaure per figure is fine. The base cannot be seen once it is placed on the platform and as it is not glued to it the figures can be arranged in any grouping you like many times.

Joe_H....just for clarity modern trussed rafters are designed for a load on the ceilign tie member (I.e. the memeber you walk over) of 250N/mm2 over and above the trusses' own selfweight and plasterboard ceiling afixed to its underside. This 250N/mm2 is apllied thought the entire roof space and is roughly equivalent to 40mm of solid timber flooring. I can't envisage that being exceeded with a model railway layout on a raised ply deck....even some storage under it.

Howsie, I too bang my heid a lot so that is why I have fitted carpet off-cuts to the rafter undersides (just out of picture)! I have no intention of moving house in the foreseeable and therefore transportation/ demounting is not an issue. It may be for my children when I pop my clogs but I won't be there to worry| This is all about giving me pleasure which it does in buckets. Note the homage to "Glenfinnan" in the background. I did it long before the attempt on The Great Model Railway Challenge! The layout is called Glenhaddie (Scots amongst you may see the joke). Once I have finished tidying up the area in the pics I am moving onto the other side where I will be building a tunnel through a mountain that is being quarried for slate. Well, that is the plan! Does anyone have any suggestions on how to create a vertical face that looks like quarried slate? Any help would be appreciated

JJ, My roof trusses are dual pitch fink truses used maily on more post-war modern properties. The one Tich shows appear to be more akin to "attic" trusses or maybe "joiner built" (i.e. don't comform to standard roof dseigns and may not act as a trussed rafter). There is obviously a larger central area free from any veritcal or sloped members.

RogerB, Pics as requested. /media/tinymce_upload/98c27bba51fdc9fdbb68f2ff466b53ff.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/b620ff1f2186069ab6b1d2adb349e1e0.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/0ab108743c65de97d987c2046445cd6f.JPG/media/tinymce_upload/28afde27a4737687327303252efde31b.JPG

Jane2, The staion is indeed a Metcalfe P0320 as Harry rightly surmised as were the platforms. Since that image was taken I have added a lot to the scene including Railway Shed, Signal box, Station Masters' house (all Metcalfe), siding infills, ballast, road and platform lighting etc. and currently installing siding lighting It looks a much more complete area now. If it is of interest I will take a further pic and let you see what I have managed in such a restricted space.

Tich, I have done exactly as you propose. It works well as you can set the height to suit you. I have created a 4-loop layout approx 5m x 3m and still in the process of landscaping. (ballasting can be a pain though!). Insulation to floor and underside of sarking is essential to avoid temperature difference issues. Won't solve it as it can be too hot or too cold at times. Good luck/media/tinymce_upload/c75a3e7672e9d650a546734884b72954.JPG

£13 on Amazon. Great purchase!

Thanks both, I knew there would be an answer or two that would solve it for me!

As a supplementary to this thread I have a related issue. I have a 12v DC bus under my deck powering 12v filament platform lamps. Running alongside is my DCC bus. My DCC droppers are connected to their bus by Scotchlok type connectors which work well. However the very thin wires on my new LED lamps will probably be too thin to to connect in that way. As the DC bus is already installed what would be suggestions on how to fix the new LED lamp wires to their bus. Soldering is one option but I am not sure about working in a confined space on my back where control is less than ideal. The bus wire is 7/0.2 gauge. Also what is the best way to strip a small length of the bus wire to allow a conenction to the lamp wire to be mage. Any advice would be welcome.

The most obvious curved viaduct to consider is Glenfinnan. I used this as a basis for my own curved viaduct which I scratchbuilt from ply and Meltcalfe card. It would be possible I am sure when kitbashing the Metcalfe viaduct to use some of tke A4 card that matched the viaduct chosen to deal with any pier widening, Bear in mind that the difference bewteen inner and outer faces of a pier can only be about 2mm max. Not too difculut to achieve with some packing.