Andy P.

Hi There, The Micro sets are what are sometimes called H0 or HO size. There is no agreement on the exact scale but they range from 1/87 to 1/60. Nevertheless the upshot is that you can use pretty much any accessories meant for H0 scale trains with the set, for example buildings, signs, billboards etc I don't where you are located but the H0 scale slot car scene is much bigger in North America than in Europe or Asia. In general, an brand slot car will work on the Micro set that is the same scale, however as with any scale, the magnetic force, tires, motors are all different and perform very differently.

Yeah I noticed that too: https://slotcarp.wordpress.com/#Packaging The good thing is, for almost every type of every slot car out there there is a black guide blade out there... The only cars I couldn't get to work were Artin/Cartornic 1:43 cars that are technically only 7.5 volts as well. The app went guano crazy. All other brands worked though...

Are these all brand new cars with the surpressors still attached?

THis was posted in another thread: To create a custom track, select MY GARAGE from RACE MODE screen. Select CUSTOM TRACKS from MY GARAGE screen. Select Add Track from CUSTOM TRACKS sceen. Select the newly added track and you can change its name and add an image if you wish. To use the track, return to the RACE MODE screen and select a race mode other than QUICK RACE. The next screen will allow you to edit the race features including Select Track which will take you to the SELECT SET screen where Custom Tracks is an option. Select your track and hopefully you will be able Start Race without the calibration requirement. Sam

Very pretty!!! :-)

Hi Bernard, I had the same problem when I got an ARC ONE set: https://slotcarp.wordpress.com/#Setup The "dot to dot" setting is the lowest i.e. slowest setting and moving the screw counterclockwise i.e. away from the dot increases the speed. Make sure you use a flathead screwdrivers or dull knife that fits the slit well otherwise the plastic will get scratched and not looks as nice. Alternatively, you can use a wall mounted (sometimes called socket mounted) dimmer and plug the power adapter into that. I personally find it less fiddely this way. You leave the controllers at full throttle and gently increase speed using the dimmer dial until the car fly off. Back it off a notch and you are good to go. Personally I think if you have the space you should go for a SPORT set up. Micro is limited to the smaller "H0" care but you can race everything on SPORT (except big 1/24 cars). There are no wall crawling curves or loop-the-loops but there is a flying leap and cross over sections. I only see Micro an advantage if you don't have the space and/or you love the motif of the prodcuts (Cars, Toy Story, Star Wars etc). You can theoretically race Micro cars on Sport ;-) Good luck!

Put a QR cide on the box so you can access it from the mobile ;-)

HI Max58. I got mine from amazon. essentially this: http://www.abilityanswers.com/images/PLUG%20IN%20DIMMER%20SWITCH.jpg I set it at a low setting, pull the trigger full blast and slowly increase the power until the car flies off and then I knock it back one setting. You certiainly do have a ton of track! Andy

HI "Max58", The switch is to allow you to use one power pack/adapter per lane so that if a car de-slots the other car does not get a rush of power. So the switch means 16 Volts (DC) spread across 2 lanes or 16 Volts (DC) for each lane but you do need a sperate power pack for each lane. I highly recommend this setup to be honest as it allows the cars to be controlled much better and with the right controllers you also have brakes. Make sure each power pack is the same though as there are several different kind out there. Little tip if racing with kids: get a plug in dimmer for each power pack and you can adjust the power so that full trigger racing doesn't result in cars flying across the room!

Hi Dave, The sensors only work in one direction on ARC ONE AFAIK i.e. clockwise. While you could fit two in opposite directions I am not sure if there could be a problem with the circutiry...

Train guinea pigs to take them across: They won't chew them to death like dogs and aren't as moody as cats!

I tooka heat gun to a piece of track for "fun" one day and it was fine up to 50°C but by 75°C it was very soft and by 100° it was melting. I was able to bend it all back and reform it so that is worked but it was severyl bumpy and not really usable (this was the Scaley Classic track that came out just before the switch to SPORT). Damp can definitely be a problem. At a swap meet a guy was trying to sell off track but it was so badly rusted he couldn't give it away. He said it hade been kept in an attic for years and he didn't know why it gone rotten. The only thing could have been was damp. I wipe my track down with alcohol and treat it with automatic transimssion fluid (just the metal rails) that has dextron in it just to be on the safe side as it has anti-oxidants in it. I don't think cold has much of an adverse affect as it has to get to near 0 before things start to get brittle. I know that tires and anything rubber cannot handle the extremes. I have had to replace lots of tires because of this. Cleaning them off the rims was a lot of work. Just my experience (my track is in a heated basement but is stored in an unheated part)

Write an e-mail actually call Customer Care. If yu speak ENglish fairly well it ought to be the fastest way.

The C1347 i.e. https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/scalextric-world-champions-set.html is a standard, analog 2 lane set. You can replace the powerbase with the ARC ONE power base (as it is analog as well) and use the ARC App with the set. There is a way to use the standard controllers with the ARC ONE if you don't like them: https://www.scalextric.com/uk-en/forum/arc-one-powerbase-review/?p=1 The car are DPR=Digital Plug Ready which means if you buy a digital plug you can use them on a digital track as well (with lane changes). Digital is a completely different powerbase and controller system. ARC Pro will not be out until next year some time.

Hi all, There's been a few questions on ARC device compatibility recently and so I wanted to start a thread to keep track of all the devices that have been tested with the app. All the devices we have tested ourselves (and are sure work with the app) are in our official Device Compatibility list: ../../../media/wysiwyg/Scalextric/Forum/Scalextric-ARC-Device-List.jpg Have you used a device not shown on the list above? Please let us know exactly which device you've used and whether it was compatible. This thread can then serve as a reference for everyone wondering whether their device will work with ARC.