Blagard

Classic track and Sport Track work exactly the same, so yes. Just be aware that Classic track has a shallower slot that modern cars may catch their guides on. Also the steel in Classic rails is not as good as Sport so connections in the track will not be as good.

Ferrit man is actually reference to the complete suppression set on the pickups and as a matter of course includes the ferrit choke in addition to the capacitor. While cars will run without both those items you do so at risk of increased interference. I would recommend wiring back replacements where possible. The image below shows ferrite man, note the position of the wires to the motor or chip between the choke and the capacitor. /media/tinymce_upload/dd5ad6d8241eefdbc45180e1b528b5f3.jpg

I am not familiar with that problem but I think one other person on the forum reported a similar issue, I don't recall any response when advised to try the method without the LCD screen. It does sound as if there is a problem as you have obviously been reading the manual and I am sure followed it to the letter. I would suspect the problem is with the powerbase itself as the display is just that, nothing more. You might want to consider asking scalextric to check the firmware on the base and update it if it can be done. The base can be connected to a PC with a Special cable and you could do that yourself, but please note the cable is a special one and using a standard ethernet cable may have caused the problem in the first place! The problem is the forum is not the place to ask scalextric, you need to use the "Contact Us" link under the Help & Advice tab above.

Regarding the metal rails, there is no grain but there is a slenderness ratio which has impact on how the steel section responds to bending. The top part of the track rails are very stiff due to the upside down U shape and quite resistant to buckling. The bottom part in thew slot is very propone to buckling. If you bend the track upwards the steel is very unforgiving and the top part will try to compress while the bottom will try and stretch. In practice it can't do either so instead the top will twist sideways and can only go in one direction and that is into the slot. Without cuts to the bottom of the slot the result will be the slot gets pinched at the top and can get tight enough to trap a guide. A similar issue occurs if you try to bend downwards but in this case the steel will actually succeed in buckling at the bottom of the slot which can trap a guide very easily. if you look into the slot and see the buckled steel pushing into the slot at intervals. Cutting slots across the underside of the rails will allow the steel to easily bend upwards and the slots will open up even more in doing so. Bending downward the oppersite is allowed to happen and if slots were made with a dremel cutting disc they can close up with the bend or in the worst case the cut bits of steel in the track can slide past each other rather than buckling. In both cases, slotting the track rails on the underside allows the track to be bent a little at each cut with straight unbent bit in between each cut. So you can see the more cuts the gentler and less obvious each bend is. An alternative to tape at track joints is to solder flexible wire links to the track rails on the underside of the ajoining track pieces. The only down side is that if / when you take the track apart the wire links are removed either by disconnection or wire cutters! I don't actually know what the sensors are in the digital lane change track but would guess they are not IR but photo cell as I believe the LED on the underside of the car signals when you press the lane change button. The LED is probably signalling the cars ID all the time so as it passes the finish line the system knows which car passed over. The lane change sensor only needs to know one signal common to all cars, it could be as simple as a steady light on the LED.

I don't bend any of my track but if I was to do a fixed layout , I certainly would. Plastics generaly bend easier with heat so using a hot air type paint stripper on a low setting and carefully heating the track should allow the plastic to flex. The rails however are going to buckle unless you give them relief. I would suggest the same technique as for bending timber around bay windows. lots of cuts on the back or in the case of the rails on the metail that is in the slots. If you use the right tools the cuts will also remove some material that will allow either a bend up or down. I would use my dremel with the cutting disc. The frequency of the cuts if best found by trial and error depending on how much you want to bend the track. Just be aware that a downward bend does not want the car to bottom out and the upward curve does not want the car front or back to hit the track, so gently does it would be the key. Use you long wheel base cars and long front/rear projection cars to guide you on how much to bend.

You can put lane changes almost anywhere but they only work in one direction, so unlike an old analogue circuit where you could reverse the circuit direction easily just by turning the power base around, the digital lane change only work in one direction so all lane changes and the powerbase would need turning around. The curved lane changes maybe in four types, all just one lane change unlike the straight that is two lane changes side by side. The curved changes are inside to out and outside to in, with both in either right or left curve directions. I think a few people had problems with cars coming off the track but I have never used them. With digital you can have just one crossover track that changes the track into one huge lane using both tracks over two laps.

I just did a search of the spares for 997 and there was only one underpan listed as part W9748. You can see the part is for DPR cars and not for digital cars with integral chips. So if you were really after a new underpan it may not be currently available. I think many of the early digital set cars have the chip factory fitted and not the DPR modules. In the past I have also found that spares are common to many other cars of the same basic design the differences being mainly artwork. e.g. spoilers, wheel styles etc.

Via Google C3593A - may be wrong year for you C3619

I think you need to consider other possibilities such as interference or other pairing issues. 6. Power down likely interferers. Say that faithful Bluetooth speaker usually connects to your partner's smartphone instead of yours. If you're having trouble pairing your phone with the speaker, it could be because the speaker is trying to activate its usual connection. Some older devices are very simple. They just try to connect with the last thing they paired with. If a Bluetooth device was previously paired with something else, turn off that other gadget. Other issues to consider are at the following site http://www.techlicious.com/how-to/how-to-fix-bluetooth-pairing-problems/