TrainDriverJ

I have a tram kit that has a 12v motor. However when power is applied (ordinary Hornby 12v DC controller) the motor buzzes on the track but does not move in either direction. Does this mean the motor is stuck and/or beyond repair? You can still get parts, and to buy one is an option, however they are £30 with postage. Is there a DIY option or anything at all I could do or try before buying a replacement? I have attached a photo of the motor if this helps at all. Thanks/media/tinymce_upload/fffc611319c6ed43656958301f3fb2f8.jpg

I have looked in my catalogue and unfortunately there is no contact details for his stand. However, I do remember him saying something about Karens eshop on ebay. So I have had a look and it does appear that this page sells miniature OLED screens. Also if you search OLED mini display it comes up with many more. In his set up he had a screen that had been peeled back from its board which he said was ok to do. He could plug it into a controller board that linked to a computer so you could program it. He said you did not need programming knowledge as you could download a program that was user friendly to do the programming. Sorry, I do not know any more about this aspect as I wanted to keep moving and see everything that was on offer at the show! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/karens_e-shop/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Maybe you could have a look and see if this is useful to anybody. I just thought at the time due to the price some people would be able to make some good use of these items and information. They certainly looked impressive inside his model bus and they didn’t look dissimilar to the Train-Tech ones to me. Believe me they were small and crystal clear. They were scrolling and changing etc. Of course they would not be DCC but you still might be able to use them separately and program them and still have several of them effectively set up static on stations, or billboards, information screens, sides of trains etc. for a small price. This stuff looks so good that I’m sure much more of it is going to surface in the near future and everybody will have one for all sorts of projects.

I was at Warley and came across the Model Bus Federation stand. They had a screen that looks identical to the train-tech version and was being used as a destination screen inside an OO gauge double deck bus. I asked how this had been done as it was remarkable for such a small very clear screen to be added to such a small model. He told me that the screens can be obtained on line from China for £3.00 (yes £3.00) and the controller board for £5.00 approx. He said the screen itself could be peeled back without breaking and the rest of the ‘gubbings’ installed in the bus. The screen had to be programmed and this was done via a computer. Apparently there was a program available to do this that was semi intuitive and didn’t involve writing code. The bus destination blind was there changing destinations, scrolling etc. He indicated this method could easily be adapted for a train layout situation and or sides of modern model trains to great effect at a fraction of the cost. I personally wouldn’t follow this up at this stage but thought I would leave a note here so that if anybody was interested, and has the expertise (as I do know the pros and cons), they might want to do a bit of research or evaluate whether this would be worth it. Unfortunately it was only later I thought it would have been good to take a picture. Sorry.

@trickymundo Thanks for this. Unfortunately I have already re-entered the loco. But I will certainly bear this in mind should it happen again. I had seen the screen you refer to, and entered the maximum speed, but when it requested the further information (which I had no knowledge of) I gave up. It was annoying as this model had to be manually entered and I had no idea how this error had occurred or how to avoid it in the future. It just seems like a glitch to me.

Thanks for the very prompt response. Sorry, should have guessed it would have already happened to someone else! Thought I might have to do that - just was hoping I suppose. Oh well at least I wasn't out getting wet all day.

I have spent some time manually entering the sounds for R3600TTS and setting up the loco. I use the eLink with a computer. It ran fine. Today the speed slider shows a maximum speed of 1 at the top. Therefore when controlling the loco I can only select 0 or 1 with no multiple steps in between where I can gradually increase or decrease the speed. When 1 is selected it still, however, runs at its maximum speed. I don't know how this has come about or how to get it back to the correct value. There seems to be no obvious way. In the locomotive set up it has cruising and shunting speed as inputs with the maximum speed in tiny writting in between in dark blue which seems unajustable. Can someone enlighten me or has it's database become corrupt and I will have to start from scratch and enter everything again?

Sorry forgot to say it‘s at Hattons

I know this is an old link but as of this morning 19/8/2019 11:45am there is one of these for sale described as like new for £500 if anyone is interested. There are several other Thomas’s as well at various prices. Any takers?

Yes I know, but thanks Chris. As promised I advised Adam the administrator. He seemed pleased to be informed and was only to happy to update the page so that the erroneous links were removed. My tiny bit of a contribution complete. At least it improves the image even if it’s not the answer to the most difficult modelling question that’s ever been asked!

Chris Thanks and understood. Seems a bit unprofessional to have links at the top of a forum that either do not work or are meaningless. I will e-mail the administrator to see if he is interested.

Hi Anton I have recently bought two turntables from Hattons. One discounted as nearly new but used and one brand new. I returned the first as it experienced the problem you have highlighted. I then bought new thinking this was why it was discounted alas the same problem persists. With lower power it will turn at a slower pace until it reaches near to the motor housing and like you say it comes to a stop and jams as though there simply isn’t enough power at that point to get it past. The motor strains and comes to a halt. Applying full power does make the turntable operate normally and get past the housing provided you apply it before the turning actually stops and the motor strains but the sound is very off-putting to say the least. I have decided to keep it especially after reading that many people seem to suffer a similar problem. It does appear to have got slightly better after having been used for a while. I did want a turntable and although I would have preferred a perfect solution there is not much alternative unless you pay significantly more or are prepared to modify. I am sorry that I am not offering a solution but I thought I would post just to confirm that you do not seem to be doing anything wrong unless we are unique in this respect.

Chris this is a fantastic offer. But I am going to turn it down. The reason is that your time is much more valuable to yourself than me. This was a request for something that I may have wrongly perceived as something you had available after the event and perhaps easily would benefit me and others. With the effort you put into this forum I would much prefer you helping as many people as possible with your time than something that benefits me alone. I will of course gratefully receive anything you consider suitable in the future, if and when you decide, that this project is worth perusing further - as I am sure others would.

Chris. Well you got my sentiment okay, thanks. Quite like the look of the static grass so I'm either going to have to get that satisfaction or get my hand in my pocket. I do like having a go but where is it on the project list? Hmmmm.

Fishmanoz. Point taken. Bit thoughtless of me really. I apologise. Thanks Chris for the reply anyway. I’ve just been and bought one. It was actually about the brass contacts that I was most interested in as there is 1 conversion with and one without. I had noted that they sometimes catch on the rails and may cause damage but with what you say then …….. I’ll now go and read all the old posts rather than make any more intercepts of this post. If you think this may be a new interesting line of discussion perhaps the new comments could be moved? Thanks.

Hi Chris Would you consider making me one of these? Obviously I would pay for it. I would love to have one of your originals rather than a bought one! I hope you don’t think I am being too cheeky. No worries if you can’t but I thought I would ask you all the same. Thanks

Hi Chris and others By your hard work have you amassed a number of station announcements (ready to go) that you would consider to be useful to other forum members, perhaps generic in nature? Would you be willing to make them available for others to download and use? I’m sure there would be many interested and grateful members and it would be a great appreciation of the effort you’ve already put in.

I appreciate there is an official Hornby conversion and a multitude of discussions by members that takes ages to consider in detail and read leading to one that is favoured. But has anybody had a stab at what they believe are the simple pros v cons of the differing methods of DCC conversion that I may read and weigh up?

I am certain some people would. Items from this period are still being re-sold and are still popular with enthusiasts. I am assuming that you wish to sell them, if so do you know what you have? Could you list the items? If so there are many places that would give a valuation so you could compare. For instance Hattons have forms you can download complete and email and will provide a courier for larger collections if the valuation is accepted. https://www.hattons.co.uk/list/eventdetails.aspx?eventid=81

You could try matching up the roof colour with the humbrol chart and paint equivalents which is available for purchase or download here https://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/humbrol-wallchart

What is your Hornby Model Number? I have the model R3343 (2014 Model) which predates the first Class 8 TTS model released by Hornby R3504TTS (2016 model). I have fitted the new Hornby Class 8 sound decoder no problem at all in this model without any modification whatsoever. Therefore, it is an easy upgrade for a beginner. I agree there is not much space but the decoder does just fit above the motor and as RAF96 says it is a small rectangular speaker that slides up in the housing immediately behind the radiator grill and before the body retainer screws. A few minutes at most to fit. Obviously I can't guarantee other variants.

/media/tinymce_upload/40010a0593f4b425f071db4a9538841b.jpg I don't model or collect from a particular era and just buy any locomotives I like at the time. I had a look at the Hattons sale and was really impressed with this one so I got someone to treat me. That's 1 strike gone for Christmas!

Thank you Caiptean. Very interesting. John

/media/tinymce_upload/609cc158d7261f4dd21e041581829a60.JPG I was in Hattons picking up an order and of course had to do a round of the display cases. They had several models they say are a "Bargain" - on offer to you and me. Anyway, I liked the look of this so they made an impulsive sale!

This trackmat I believe is derived from the Hornby catalogue track plan 1997. It can be viewed here http://www.freetrackplans.com/Hornby-1997.php All the Hornby track plans (including this one) can be downloaded here http://www.freetrackplans.com/Download.php They are in free anyrail track planning software format which is available here https://www.anyrail.com/en Once the track plan is loaded, the software can display the pieces required. To help you I have listed the pieces the software states is required. Please review this information to satisfy yourself that you are happy before buying anything. Track R600, 00 Hornby Standard Track 6 R601, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Straight 9 R604, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 3 R605, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 8 R606, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 1 R607, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 8 R609, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 4 R621, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Flex 1 R628, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 1 R636, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Road crossing 1 R643, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Curve radius 2 R8072, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Left turnout 3 R8073, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Right turnout 6 R8075, 00 Hornby Standard Track, Right curved turnout 1 　 Objects R8614, 00 Hornby Skaledale, Platform 2 R8615, 00 Hornby Skaledale, Platform 2 R8643, 00 Hornby Skaledale, Platform 2