Aussie Jeff

Well I guess if you factor in the thickness of the PE sheet at this scale it really is 3-dimentional!

I have been very quiet for a while due to moving house and dealing with very smoky air due to the terrible fires on the east coast of Australia near where we were living and where we moved to. We are fortunate though as there are many people far worse off than us. Anyhow we are now pretty much settled in our new place and I've found some time to finish off another Moth I started ages ago. This one is in RAAF livery as per the instructions in the current 1:72 A02106 kit - I previously did this in the Royal Navy livery detailed in my 'Tale of Two Tiger Moths' post. For this one I also purchased Eduard photo etch parts (cost more than the Airfix kit!) and a resin exhaust (not really worth the money). /media/tinymce_upload/cc152506adf24ccf6f69d714e59f5b76.jpg A lot of the PE parts were so small it was crazy and I really should have started with something bigger for my first go at PE parts! I lost a few to the carpet monster but doesn't matter. I won't bother with the build detail as that has been covered before in my other post but here are a few pics of the finished model. /media/tinymce_upload/eaf4e53d3e4ee3d0e77e039a6e6fa492.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/79301acac7c232e41eaecbcf2fe6ec68.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/bada8af3f5189df8b8bac969a7b45990.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/46c6cb26898b924be5aa465da96e4439.jpg I used two type of EZ Line - 0.2mm black for the cockpit bracing, double rudder control cables and the upper and lower aileron cables (yes, I even did these tis time!) and the white flat rigging thread (aka Prym sew-in elastic) for the wing bracing cables). I like the latter as it has the appearance of a 'metal' cable. I also found it is possible to rig each wing with a single stand of thread but it's fiddly. /media/tinymce_upload/572bb3ae290e38ecd43616cfc45012fd.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/cd297cbd0fd75f49641c3770bbe2bd50.jpg Most of the PE parts were for the cockpit but other parts included a replacement pitot tube (?), radiator, additional undercarriage strut and mounts on the upper wing etc. below are some pics of the cockpit and doors. Shame about the standard thick screens. /media/tinymce_upload/2359bbd9bd889b2faf8aa007afa04e62.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/f4f0ffd8d2de8db21de66d1007ba9f43.jpg Here's and interesting fact about Tiger Moth A17-489. Apparently this was the Tiger Moth that was used to transport Major General Adachi, GOC Japanese 18th Army, from the site of his surrender to the Australians, back to his headquarters on September 14, 1945, probably the only Japanese General to ever fly in a Tiger Moth. And finally a pic of my Moth collection. 😆 /media/tinymce_upload/d33eebd498141954ded953bc0f286489.jpg

ps when I do coastal command models i normally use model air dark slate grey and extra dark ocean grey. Both are very dark colours. Your final shades are lighter but I like the fact the difference between the 2 colours are obvious. Perfectly plausible weather fading too Thanks Peter s, when I unpacked this after moving I was still quite chuffed with the result - it didn't suffer any damage (unlike some) and the weathering looks better each time I look at it. As per my previous comment the colours were as per instructions (Hu27 & Hu117).

Hi DriftyWings, I've been off-line for some time, probably 5 months or more, due to the horrible bushfires we are having here on the east coast of Australia and also moving house (actually moved just as the fires were easing in the north-east where we were and building up in the south-east where we have moved to). I haven't breathed 'clean' air since last August! Anyway, in reply to your question (and thanks for the compliment) I just used the colours in the instructions for the camo - in this case Humbrol 27 (Medium Grey) and Humbrol 117 (Dull Green). Luckily I had both of these colours from 'starter kits' previously purchased, so they were those little plastic pots of Humbrol acrylic. I had only been back into the hobby for about 3-4 months when I tackled this so I wan't too adventurous. We have nearly settled back into a normal outine now and I've set up my new modelling space so should be making more posts soon. Good luck with your 'Cat'.

I asked the same question a few months ago as my wheels were looking like they were fashioned by Grog the Neanderthal. Of all the helpful suggestions received the one I found most useful was the 'Capillary method'. Generally paint the wheel first as best you can, as these are usually a lighter colour than the tyre. Then make a thin mix of black paint and gently apply evenly around the tyre a little distance from the rim. If thin enough it will flow around the rim and collect in the recess. Allow this to dry and it will give you a little more leeway when finishing off the tyre. Getting the mix the right is the secret - too thick and it wont flow, too thin and it wont cover well. Also, depending on the wheel/tyre you might need to do it the other way round. Another suggestion was to mount the wheel on a cocktail stick (or similar) and rotate while painting with the brush held in one place (tricky). Good luck!

After the repaint of the Vampire I went back to an old reliable Bf109 to try out my airbrush from the go-get. /media/tinymce_upload/a6258f3165c3297ffb69d6e1f9c34205.jpg I must admit I am really impressed with the latest Series 1 (?) kits - inexpensive, great quality and fun to build. I have made the Hurricane and Mustang Blue Nose before and like this one just the one build option so you don't even need to mull over what to do before getting started! I didn't bother with any build photos for this one but i went together so well, fit was excellent. I still suffered my usual clumsy, fat-fingered mistakes and breakages but I'm getting good at rectifying these. Another couple of firsts was th use of a photo-etched instrument panel (a bit of a waste really) and a paint mask for the canopy (well worth it with my shaky hands).and the use of regular EZLine for the aerial lines. I used a mix of paints, underside and fuselage sides were painted with Humbrol 247 (Lichtblu) with Tamiya XF-61 (Dark Green) mottle. The mottle was supposed to be more like lots od fuzzy thin lines but I didn't manage to get that result. ☹️ The splinter camo topside was done with Tamiya XF-22 (RLM Grey) and th XF-61 with the yellow wingtips painted with Humbrol 26 (Trainer Yellow) acrylic. I did this as a parked plane and while waiting for paint to dry I wondered what to do with the pilot. So I made a bench out of waste sprue and sat Emil by his plane. 😆 Here are are few pics - more than happy with this first effort. /media/tinymce_upload/163c80d8f4281bcea880fbeac8659b61.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/171bc25914f327ff5d67b040f7b2e383.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/ad159995a5abcac89133a5ef49800fcb.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/e952245e833b8e1ea3509be69d2fc8cf.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/948ff76a8a537d3ba91bbd59b1d67ec2.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/44c2e9cc4f18ad4593ba390cd176b26c.jpg

Well, the Vampire is finally done after all the decal issues, stripping, reconfiguring, repainting and touching up. As it was now 'in-flight' the crew needed to be painted and seated. They would want to be good friends as there's not that much room but at least I didn't need to amputate their legs. /media/tinymce_upload/e4ddb9e683c9702ba5be3bce605e8d86.jpg I applied two coats of Klear before applying the decals and noticed it really darkened both the grey and olive drab. A couple of the decals still look a bit silvered but I think that is due to my poor sanding/finishing after removing the original paint. i can live ith it though. My slot for the stand is a bit rough too. /media/tinymce_upload/ddf0a5a5531ea60c227617a78ea4410a.jpg /media/tinymce_upload/e0e59e07ce5ce8456f93299c2166ae35.jpg I also fitted the drop tanks and the various antennae and probes that I broke off early in the build using stretched sprue or 0.4mm brass tube. It's definitely not my best effort to date (but it is my best air-brushed model 😀) but it still looks fine on the shelf. /media/tinymce_upload/db22bca6ccba5baba5debf5bce4bb0d7.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/5418340593d92c2dd6beef51025e0a35.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b1d086c5cfc4777f3451103dd7b2efc1.jpg And here it is in-flight - that's real Aussie blue sky! 😆 /media/tinymce_upload/c6eb661e3ab8e66eee21bc52663d3de9.jpg

Of course - never entered my mind about the alcohol base. Thanks!

Thanks T2B - everyone is so helpful, I take all these tips into account. With the Humbrol enamels I just thinned (a lot) with white spirit, didn't seem to be any issues (yet). I am looking at buying the Model Air paints gradually as required but I do have a decent collection of Humbrol & Tamiya acrylics to work through. This model particularly showed up my rough prep as I was pretty brutal stripping it back. Hopefully future builds wil be a bit cleaner. I also found you need to completely rethink HOW you paint the model with an airbrush compared to brushes workflow-wise. Looking forward to trying out the Vallejo stuff on a future kit.

Thank Paws. I knew the Tamiya paints were water clean-up but what was happening was the thin film of paint in the cup and on the needle dried very fast. I ended up using bit of Tamiya thinners to clean it off. With the enamel it was very easy to clean with turps through the gun and cup. I've used a brush with the Klear/Future as you suggested - looks fine.

Thanks Brian - I try to remain positive when disaster strikes, no point doing otherwise. The new paint job is coming along nicely and I'm getting to paint more pilots (in a different scheme to most others). I envy you UK/EU (oops - 😮) people being able to see so many historic & current aircraft. It was so good to see the real things when I attended my first airshow earlier this year.

Good to see you were able to tame those day-glo beasties Paul. I have this kit in my stash but after my experience with the Vampire I may consider the second scheme. Time will tell. And kudos to anyone who successfully got those retina-burning decals to behave on either model. 😛

So, the airframe has been repainted in its new livery with my el-cheapo airbrush - and the results aren't perfect but I'm pleased with it as a first effort. The mid sea grey underside is Humbrol enamel and the olive drab topside is Tamiya acrylic. I think the acrylic finish is better but it leaves more residue in the airbrush. More learning ahead. /media/tinymce_upload/1faa6ff923fa06cc93dacf4d21652850.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b27b6026fba4a9f2bb743a2e93a2406e.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/5f3de1b06e36b1be8708fed5f81ddb1d.jpg I also found airbrushing is less forgiving of poor preperation and masking but it is nice to have such an even finish. I do have a question though - when applying the gloss coat for the decals is this sprayed on too, or brushed on like before? I'm also guessing as this is jet it should be finished with at least a satin coat once all the decal are on.

I concur - I started with the 'Starter Kits' 10 months ago and the Spitfire Mk.1a was one of them (the Typhoon, no). I'd suggest getting at least a wide, flat brush to do the larger surfaces as the included fine and medium sized pointed brushes aren't really suitable. Also a tip for the tube of solvent cement - instead of using direct from the tube, squeeze a small amount onto a suitable surface, such as a plastic jar lid. Then use a cocktail stick to apply the glue to the parts. Much more control and less mess. The learning curve is steep, but fun. Go for it!

Well, in the immortal words of Kenny Rogers, "you've got to know when to hold them, know when to fold them" my day-glo orange decals were not a success. I used hot water, DecalFix and a lot of stern words but they wouldn't conform, and if they did they flaked off if you looked at them - see below. /media/tinymce_upload/c6f94b20dbf2c17b21ffdcbc13d9049e.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/e3965381a4f8150844b419198798683a.jpg So, rather than waste my time I decided to scrap my plans and go to plan 'B' - do the Swedish option. This meant removing the decals and paint as best I could. I also decided to take the easy option and remove the landing gear so as to fit the undercarriage doors and go 'in-flight' mode. /media/tinymce_upload/62805f6e47aaef61c69f4ad86a3ef085.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/9bcce9c034b8bdd354dd107404170659.jpg The bonus with this is I'll get to try my airbrush out on something that is not going to bother me if it doesn't work out. I will, however, need to paint up the pilots and perform surgery to get them to fit as well as adjust my seatbelts. All fun and games.

I'm really impressed with your camoflage work - If you don't mind me asking, what method do you use for masking?

That cockpit and figure painting looks so good. You've lifted the bar there for sure! Looking forward to seeing the rest of it.

Went on another bit of a spending spree - will need to get building again soon. Couldn't afford, justify (or house) the 'BIG' Airfix kit so thought I'd try this one. Parts count is down somewhat (one third the size, one sixth the price). /media/tinymce_upload/983b41926ccaf09fe3d26b6b7e2e9f66.jpg Also been lining Eduard's pockets getting the 1/72 Royal Class FW190-A8 four-model set to go with my recent Spitfire purchase as well as a 1:72 Profipack MiG-15. To make up the various orders I also picked up a few detail bits for another Tiger Moth build, various tools and assorted paints. Still lots of airfix kits in the stash - so let's get building!

A spray booth can be as simple as a large gorcery box. Something like this? Spent 10 bucks for a lazy susan bearing and a circle of craft MDF, topped with an old cutting mat, for the turntable - ply came from the shed. Box came with a whole heap of kits a while back. No extraction fan, but I'm in AUS so I'll just work outside. 😆 /media/tinymce_upload/03378d5596ee350317d69f11c7ea4e59.jpg,

Thanks to all for the advice - let's see how it goes. If it all turns sour I can always repaint it in Swedish colours. 😆. T2B - I also have the Provost waiting.

I take your point but I couldn't find one of those for 30 quid. 😳

I'm going to blame this one on T2B and Peter s - they convinced me I needed an airbrush! 😎 /media/tinymce_upload/aaaeeeb2732412fab45094f9e5e80a21.jpg I reconciled it using Peter s's beer economy scheme - total cost six pints (~GBP30, AUD54) including postage. Not going to send me broke is it, although if I continue like this this hobby might! Now I just have to learn to use it, make a booth, get the paint, build a dedicated modelling room . . . . .

Thanks Paul & Ratch - nice to know the idea has already been dealt with.

Has anyone tried cutting the large decal in half along the leading edge line and applying in two pieces? Would the join be too obvious?

I usually just chuck a broad search reference into the 'Search Forums' box (in this case g-6) and you can find all previous posts to look at. Only two posts to choose from when you do this - this one and T2B's.