GWR 14xx Tank

Has anything come partially loose (eg. so that the model still works but is not mounted properly) that could be rubbing or scraping on the body? Have a check to see if any signs of wear and tear or marks are present on the inside of the body. You say it went up in smoke, so this would suggest some part of the motor is being restricted from rotating in some way (maybe the flywheel if your Mallard has one?) You also say it is second hand, so have you done the general routine of wheel cleaning, gears, axles and valve gear lubrication, removing fluff from the mechanism, and a general once over to check everything is in place?

Thank you, it's still here on my screen, but it will most likely disappear soon. I try to avoid using this technique - I only have to use it when I quote posts from other members. Thanks again, - George

@RAF96 The post still appears for me? I use the blue button to quote the text, and then press the reply button, and then edit the post. Because I am on mobile, it is easier to edit the quoted text down to what I need, after it has been posted because otherwise I can't see or edit half of the paragraph because it is towards the right hand side of the screen, and half of it doesn't appear, and I am not able to scroll right to see the rest either. Hopefully that made sense, and my apologies. I had been wondering for a while if a Mod would beat me to finishing editing the post and deleting it.

In my opinion, it's a very good model, plenty of detail, good running characteristics, and a powerful motor with a brilliant mechanism. Slightly noisy though, but trains are noisy anyway.

The 1:1 92212 9F or the Centenary Evening Star? I've got the 1:1 92212, so I'll post a picture of it tomorrow morning on here, so it's in better lighting. Also apologies for posting in an old thread.

Good spot! When did Hornby last produce the Evening Star, I know they did one for the Centenary range this year, though. I hope they do produce an Evening Star, as I wasn't able to pick up the limited edition one.

Looking very realistic, your layout seems to be progressing quickly. I like how the track is in a mini-valley with hills rising on both sides, it looks good.

I noticed logging onto the forum this evening that my profile image has been updated, after a few days of me submitting my image. I did add one a few weeks ago that was approved just 30mins after submitting it, so it seems Admin seem to be approving them now, since I asked about it earlier this year. I thought I'd post to let anyone know that has a profile image that hasn't been approved yet. Thanks Admin.

Agreed. Follow Al's advice and you should have no problem with your plans. Let us know how you get on. Forgive me for asking Al, if I have asked something obvious, but who is Oliver?

Try Hattons, Rails of Sheffield and your local model shop if you are looking to sell these items, see who will give you the best price. I wouldn't go down the eBay route if I were you, it's best to get it seen by the companies listed above who will give you a fair and honest price, seeing as you have a large collection, rather than a price that is ten's of pounds under what you were expecting for the item. Hattons for instance will likely sell each item individually - most likely resulting in more money for you, rather than just throwing it onto eBay as a job lot.

That should be fine, I think that the motor will manage it well. I have had good experiences with can motors, and many of my engines have probably run way over the 150 hours Hornby say the motors will last for. And they are still running as good as new. As long as you keep checking on the engine regularly, you should have no problems with running it for the amount of time you have planned.

The locomotive should manage it fine, after all they are designed to last many hundreds, if not thousands of hours of running. I'd give it a once over if I were you - are the wheels clean, commutator clean (if applicable to motor type and serviceability) pickups aligned properly, oil on all moving parts and gears, etc. This one is obvious, but I thought I'd throw it into the mix anyway. Make sure the loco can manage the load you are planning to put behind it comfortably, with little or preferably no struggle. Otherwise, more strain may be placed upon the motor, leading to accelerated wear and tear, or worst case scenario a burnout. Is the loco running in a continuous circle, or is it going from one end of a layout to another, then back again?

Hi all, Does anyone know of any manufacturers of custom OO Gauge Headboards? Has anyone had any experience with any suppliers - any you would recommend? Thanks, 14xx

Didn't think of Mazak rot, but can you be sure it definitely is Mazak rot? I haven't had many experiences with Mazak rot, so forgive me if I am wrong. To the OP, does any part of your tender seem to be fragile or look to be cracked or crumbling away? If not, try the suggestions I mentioned above.

Usually the culprit is that the pickups are catching or pressing against the wheels too hard, causing them to snag or have too much friction on the wheels. Check to see if the pickups are causing problems, and realign if necessary. Give these a clean. Give the wheels a good clean too, and remove any debris such as fluff or dust. Put a small drop of oil onto the axles at both sides of the tender, give the wheels a rotate by hand to work the oil in. Let us know how you get on.