Rallymatt

Shhhh no one talks about era 6!!!! Technically era 6 is late 50’s into 70’s and so it’s there and covered but eras are always a fluid thing. A4’s arrived in 1935 and lasted until end of steam in ‘68 (obviously not all) but they didn’t see the 70’s in mainline service so get counted as era 5 in late crest livery. It’s a very moveable feast as it depends on what was running when and in what livery. And that becomes a can of worms when you see a picture of a two tone Green Class 47 (as a Brush Type 4 so pre TOPS) hauling an 1920’s Pullman, and 3 MK1s, Carmine and Cream, Maroon and Blue on a scheduled service into Leeds. An 08 made it all its life (into 80’s) in original black livery with early BR crest. Eras are ‘more a set of guidelines than an binding ethos’ 😁

Mine has a flat battery and a button has broken or I’d let you borrow it

The class 20s in CFD livery look so different! Smooth non cab end makes a big difference.

Hornby R7337 is a 15v 4A transformer and adapter lead. Available in Hornby shop and there is a 15% promotional discount running until Monday. That would be a better long term solution as the 1Amp transformer will be limited. If you intend soldering droppers etc, forget the ‘power track’. Insert the pins of the adapter into a ‘chocolate block’ connector (perfect spacing) wires for your power bus from the other side of the connector and then take power off the bus and to the droppers. Every metre or so is more than enough and ensure all sections of the track have live power, remembering Hornby points are isolating/power routing. This route means you can also ignore ‘point power clips’

@dBerriff would the Peco short radius point help in adding the extra siding?

Marc, could you have an additional scenic board to put buildings on? Removable when you need the extra space.

We will know tomorrow 😁

That’s a great idea, one problem is the sideframes bend in though, so they constantly try to contact the outer face of wheels. The axle is too short if you ‘reset’ the frames with heat and cooling in place. If you reduce B2B to clear sideframe interference then it’s shorts all the way and poor running. Nothing to lose though so might try superglue and bicarbonate of soda to build up axle box and re-form. 👍

Or maybe a reward to loyal TT:120 customers? They will still make more than putting through retailers

I was feeling crazy. The sun got to me.

The axle boxes are the real issue. The wheels flap about like a sheet in the wind. I have fitted some brass axle cups but that’s not worked that well so far. The side frame distortion and moulding faults and undersize axles are problematic and tbh my original fix is probably the best running you will achieve.

‘Black Prince’ (named well after preservation) did a similarly impressive hauling feat of dragging a 1000tonne aggregate train out of a Foster Yeoman yard..

Yesterday I tried finding this out without success, but today found the info buried in a Wikipedia page on class 37, it says that the 37, 55 and 50 all used CP7 bogie and apart from gearing on 37 (so not relevant on a model) and the steps; they were largely the same. Hopefully the boffins at Hornby are using all this to their advantage and extra points to @Moccasin for that knowledge 😁

I have thought same as @ntpntpntp, the biggest space consideration on an HM DCC decoder is the antenna, if that could separate or flexible off the main decoder PCB it would probably get round the space issues in the smaller TT:120 locos.

Hi welcome to the forum 😁 There is a specific section for HM DCC (7000) if you check there at the top of the page is a series of ‘stickies’ that cover all these details and why or why not to use particular bits etc. have a look through there and you will get a good understanding of the system (it’s dead easy) and do ask if you are not sure

That is skilful 😁

Perhaps they should appoint a brand manager to TT:120?

Surely First Rule of TT:120 Club is ‘Talk about TT:120’ 😁 I think I know why TT:120 has upset so many people, from this great thread it’s obvious that TT:120 people are ‘Disruptors’ at heart and won’t be put in a box. Model Railway fun for all!

I was thinking the same Peter…..

I have very strict rules, the correct number of rivets must be in place on any item of stock, a photographic record of the item being seen in place in NER on 15th June 1965…. Then I awoke from that nightmare 😂 A general time period of mid-late 60’s as steam was being phased out a diesels coming in. That means I don’t just go out and buy everything and I found it helpful for just creating the setting. The influx of German diesel power as a complete fantasy, partly because I wanted to test layout and the Hornby range was still months away and I like them 😁. The story goes as many of the early BR diesels were flops they went abroad; it’s actually a reversal of the Hawker Siddeley Kestrel story, what a stunner that was. Who knows, maybe things will change at High Fell? 😉

A soldering iron you can alter temperature on is really helpful and usually a good sign is half decent. A cleaning pad for the soldering iron is a must too.

@Silver Fox 17 has saved my pennies for now, thought I had missed a trick 🤣; I am waiting for an early un-refurbished Blue 50, it rough fits and I like look of those early diesels.

A lot of DC layouts run a power bus similar to DCC practice just for the extra reliability. A decent soldering Iron can be bought for £20-30. Already mentioned is watch some tutorials, there is an excellent starter guide here on main section. The trick is good kit, the right temp (300-350 for most model railway stuff) get surfaces clean and practice practice practice on stuff that’s not important. You will very soon pick it up and it’s very satisfying to do these things yourself. Both the Peco and Hornby TT Track solders well, I make a light pass on the underside of the tail with a fine file, I use a dab of flux and ‘tin’ the rail, ‘tin’ the wire and then bring to two together and with iron and they will take every time without melting any sleepers. Quick dab with IPA to clear a flux residue.

@Silver Fox 17, I know it’s not an issue to you, I don’t think 50 ever came out in green did it? Only info I can find was early Blue livery and that’s why I am waiting.

The reason why you have power when top point is set to straight ahead, is the power has a route to the other side of the interruption on the lower point. As soon as you set the top point to turn out, its isolating properties break that power supply. Be careful with cleaning that you don’t bend the small contacts on the point. This is where adding an additional power feed to the right side would be a plus. Even with good conductivity, if you open both points as it is now the section to the right will become isolated @dBerriff makes excellent comment on abrasives, water will loosen PVA and you can wipe it away with a cotton bud, IPA would be helpful too. Investing in a soldering iron is worth it in this hobby, so useful.