Darren-345957

The ones I got in the Christmas/new year sales had the correct wheels so anything you buy now should be correct.

Similar to the desert pink used in the Gulf war, the white was a temporary finish known as ARTF (alkali removable temporary finish) so an overspray of the existing paint job is the way to go. The finish is reasonably hard wearing and wasn't on for too long so they tended to stay fairly clean as far as weathering goes.

For very fine parts I'll sometimes use a very fresh blade to score the attachment points top and bottom and use the side cutters to separate the frame well away from the part so that any wedging from the side cutter blades doesn't press on the part. You can then work you way in towards the part in relative safety.

The 2009 moulding has recessed panel lines instead of raised rivets but it maintains a lot of the problems that the 1960s kit had (too shallow at the rear fuselage, joined up gun bulges, very thin and basic underwing gun pods). The 109Es, by comparison, are excellent. A bit of judicious filing can separate the cowling bulges.

" our classic Bristol Bloodhound kit is available once more" Unavailable. It's not much of an explanation.

The front windscreen and sliding portion of the canopy didn't need much work, just minor clean up for a bit of flash. The rear fuselage needs a bit of a trim to match the triangular profile of the canopy since it has no taper, making it a bit wide at the top. I had sprayed the sky over the top of the model when I did the bottom so I ended up masking the fuselage band rather than hoping the decal colour matched.

Did a quick, almost out of box, build of the vintage classic Brewster Buffalo so I thought I'd post and detail the build a little. General parts quality and fit were good. A little fettling needed to get the rear canopy to sit correctly and a small trim of the inside parts on the lower fuselage to ensure the wings sat nice and flush. The engine had a damaged push rod on one cylinder so I replaced that with stretched sprue. While I had the sprue out I also made a roll cage to replace the life raft tube behind the pilot's seat since this was a land based one. Only a little filler was needed on the cowling and lower rear fuselage. All in all quite a nice little kit with really nice, clear canopy.

Probably worth pointing out that the Typhoon used black and white ID stripes prior to D-day which is why they're a little different with the black and white being different widths.

If anything, the new plastic should be slightly harder with a bit more spring back than the previous light blue/grey plastic which experiences more plastic deformation with less force.

It's probably worth noting that CA is a two part glue, The monomer is in the tube and the other component of the reaction is moisture in the air. The fridge method uses cold to reduce humidity and slow chemical reactions and if you have a metal tube type of container you can try to squeeze the CA as close to the top as possible to reduce any air in the tube. It does have a limited life once exposed so best to buy smaller amounts. I've got a container of Zap CA here from when I used to use it a lot more and there's about 20% left and it's just a slow flowing gel now.

Another alternative is masking putty or blue tack. Generally only the leading edge needs masking as the back is thin and can just be sprayed from above/below.

Are you ordering the membership kit (A73014plus) or just the model kit (A73014)? The membership package is probably ROW only but the club kit may be UK available.

The first and last Hawk box? I've bought it but I'm "rest of the world" so that may not be much help. It's possible that, since the boxes are included in the UK membership, that the separate kits only have a ROW postage option.

I think Airfix has sold out of the A06019 which had the black scheme. The upcoming A06019A has three different schemes, none of which are black.

Many German aircraft were evaluated post WW2 with the German markings overpainted. The benefit of that scheme is the relative abundance of reference photos. In this case you essentially have three marking options. red 12 in its German markings, red 12 with British markings over the top and the Czech scheme.