Go_West Posted August 14, 2018 Author Share Posted August 14, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/aec4a1d9e20641273ebcdbea5ab7df2c.jpgThis tender chassis will be built from scratch starting with a black plastic centre the ones fitted to the A4 tender are of a high melting point plastic but mine with be a lower melting point but should be ok if the temperature doesn't start to reach 212f all this plastic part does is act as a fixing point for the frames and the tender boiler and act as an insulator for the 2 frames../media/tinymce_upload/eecd593c2e1034b0c74dd5dd6b259ea1.jpgThere isn't much to do to the plastic insulator once its out of the printer just a clean up and check its going to work ok not to long or not to wide if a problem arises then its back to the drawing board make changes and print another one much easy than years ago, so the brass chassis plates will be the next part to have a go at./media/tinymce_upload/88f9d2ea4a296073a95eea234168e5e4.jpgTwo brass plates are cut out roughly then soldered together this will make marking out and drilling much easier./media/tinymce_upload/f8284a574627d1cb42332f3b8095d861.jpgOnce milled to the correct width as in the picture here but still left too long at this point. Find the middle of the frames and mark out the middle axle box position./media/tinymce_upload/c62e078c54b8a4f5c9d1dc49bc45a4d1.jpgYou can see the Hornby frames in this picture and as the A3 and A4 tenders were a 8 wheel sets design the axle boxes are to close together if you compare the leaf spring and axle box assemblies with the brass frame section above.The new frames still soldered together are at the bottom of the picture and are still to long at this stage but I need to mark the positions of the wheel centres and mill them in place. A set of Hronby tender wheels at the top of the picture will be used and at this point in time I might not re engineer them with spokes but will see maybe later./media/tinymce_upload/fa3fb0ffa4e3948586b2c64b27df89dc.jpgWith a thin coat of marking out ink the position can be marked out I think the slots once milled in place should be checked to see that they are all the same as to much of a venation even with the contact strip pickups might leave wheels floating in the air./media/tinymce_upload/f5d6b7a04a2687382a5b3075290a7c5c.jpgNow with the frames in the mill the milling is taking place the fixing holes will then be drilled in place and the frames could be unsoldered and the old solder cleaned off./media/tinymce_upload/c56339069c103554ecbdf196f5d03c4b.jpgThis is the Hornby train of Coronation Scot and coaches running on my track and very will it runs to using the old Zero One system I have a change over switch so I can run live steam or the standard 12 volt electric trains.I will not be painting the live steam engine blue but red and the transfers have already Arrived along with the name plates./media/tinymce_upload/0f1c3f813545aa1e97b741ffddacd862.JPGSome 60 years ago as a boy did you build a plastic kit of a plane and in the box was the transfers so I would rush to glue the plane together just so I could put the transfers on with out painting as this would only make the application of said transfers that much longer to do and you know I still have that feeling when looking at transfers for a model./media/tinymce_upload/63d0c7eccbb397029325660bd08a9bb7.jpgback to the job./media/tinymce_upload/023be6598ebfe6d9206e76086e9c8cb7.JPGStill soldered together and with the axle box milled in place, plus the fixing holes to screw the frames to the plastic insulator. The frames are almost finished they will need tapped holes in the edge to take a brass strip that will stop the wheels and axles falling out when you pick up the tender and engine. The wheel pickups will also need to be fixed in position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted August 15, 2018 Share Posted August 15, 2018 Great stuff - I wish the forum had a ‘like’ or similar button so I could feedback to Ken without having to interrupt the flow of the post.If I don’t put some sort of feedback Ken may think we are not interested, when in fact for me its like waiting for the next episode of a favourite TV series. Good luck getting those lining transfers around that bulbous nose Ken.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 15, 2018 Author Share Posted August 15, 2018 Hi Robthankyou for those kind words I thought some might like to see that the workings of these small steam engines if broken down into small parts might not seem so complicated and others might take on small serviceing repairs or even build a new engine.Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 You are spot on there Ken in promoting interest in and demistifying live steam. Even if folk never take it up there is a firm following of your exploits. It is the many and various little rework details that fascinate me And how the build into a better than it started product. I have been tempted to build a bit bigger 4-6 wheel (Roundhouse) live steamer, probably gas fired, but the cost has put it on the back burner for years. One day maybe when I get back to UK with a decent workshop.... Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 16, 2018 Author Share Posted August 16, 2018 As for the transfers yes they might be a job as the bloke that sells them said have fun putting them on so at £8 a sheet I think I paid I might just be buying a second set?As I said I can't wait to get to that part as it's still the bit in model building I look forward to I don't know how others get on but have you tried making your own transfers using a ink jet printer and the blank decal sheets you can buy. They don't come out that bad considering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 Just keep posting. Very interesting. 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 DIY transfers.I saw something in a newsletter about homemade transfers and they appeared to be laid on a ribbed diesel side. I asked the question of the writer had he allowed in his image for the corrugations, but I lost the link so never found out if they were actually in the grooves or just over the top. The speed whisker style may have been easier to apply around the nose if it were cutaway between the lines but too difficult for my fumble fingers to put on. I have trouble making up a running number with single digits. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 As I've put previously, GoWest - I'm following with interest, but don't have the space, tools, nor knowledge to actually do it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Postman Prat Posted August 16, 2018 Share Posted August 16, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/72710d9cd0b8192f2694dd1fcb6ab711.JPG Hi Gowest About 50 years ago a friend and I jointly built a Jamieson V2 although his contribution was far greater than mine. The amount of detailing parts was roughly NIL Nonetheless we were able to turn it into a well detailed model (by the standards of the day). I hope you like the attached photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 Hi postman prata very nice looking engine and one that would look good on any railway and in my favourite green of BR was there a problem with the lion and wheel when they were only allow the lion facing one way so on one side it's looking forward and one side it's looking back was this the case with your engine?ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 The Lion and Wheel always faces forward. The later (ferret and dart board) crest should always face left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted August 17, 2018 Share Posted August 17, 2018 PP what is the difference between a Jamieson V2 and an ordinary one? Ah I understand now, it’s the make of the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 19, 2018 Author Share Posted August 19, 2018 Being as the LMS crossheads have arrive from peters spares I thought it might be an idea to see if I can make these fit my LMS Conation engine./media/tinymce_upload/59de042b57c170ca3052bdf8eafc2f65.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b12dec93f3a6ad5b347ecfe6f1cb02ee.jpgThe only ones I could get were weathered finish which look rusty and I was not going to fit rusty valve gear to a sparkly new engine.To remove this coating from the metal and bring them back to a shiny finish a polishing brush with some T cut soon made them come up a bit brighter./media/tinymce_upload/3e032a9b83d34f273340ece3d90bbabd.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b6cc7275050d3de25b6a304b2674b83f.JPGFig 1 is the LMS crosshead and Fig 2 is the A4 LNER cross head./media/tinymce_upload/9b70c639d6a9c391be93eec000846dec.jpgThis picture shows the standard fixing of the valve and cross head assembly, the plastic valve unit and its screw and the 2 screws holding the other end of the valve rod to the chassis./media/tinymce_upload/44482fd113558ff8f2194bad3d732d30.jpgLooks straight forward first remove most of the Hornby A4 cross heads and valve gear with a pair of cuttersjust leaving the support bracket with its 2 screw holes and the end which is held in place by the plastic valve chest on top of the cylinders and its a single screw./media/tinymce_upload/e5193cc6708ddae9c248ee0b9afa4972.jpgYou can see the parts that I have removed in this picture.All we are left with is the large bracket and the long valve rod that connects to the plastic valve chest./media/tinymce_upload/c0e5da1af495b0c0e2aa6889db6b9abe.jpgWith the LMS cross head and valve assembly all the parts are in the right place for the cylinders and the middle driving wheel.The valve linkage is of the same design for the A4 and the LMS engines so no real problem there the connecting rod would also fit bit as this is made from a thinner section of brass it would not be good enough to take the work delivered by the energy of steam so the A4 connecting rods will be used.The idea I have in mind is detailed in the drawing 1 here /media/tinymce_upload/f7048375d1220edfa325fd79aae0b5ff.JPGSo the reassembly will go something like this the connecting rod on the LMS cross head will be remove and a clearance hole for a 1.2mm screw drilled through the cross head in this position./media/tinymce_upload/7df2b80cf1718dc80e0d419bed669f9f.jpgThen machine up a small bronze bearing that will fit in the small end of the Hornby connecting rod this bearing will be captive as the screw is tightened up it will clamp this bearing between the cross head and the end of the piston rod as in Drawing 2./media/tinymce_upload/f5d33460c52387afb966d7ee7d3c1c1a.jpgFiling off the fixing point for the old connecting rod small end so I can remove this connecting rod for the heaver A4 connecting rod./media/tinymce_upload/7d15c12fd309841998476161e9644f73.jpgCutting off the piston rod as this is not required on my model./media/tinymce_upload/c830b6a0a99189e317c07867666dc393.jpgOnce the piston rod has been chopped off any bits remaining can be filed back so you end up with a smooth surface ready to move on to the next part./media/tinymce_upload/3edd92721721ceb7be4e5b7468d327ed.jpgLast of all is to drill the 1.2 mm clearance hole for the fixing screw that will hold it all together that would be the finish of the cross head. /media/tinymce_upload/06203d73a4d24b8ab548bb7a1a3a4894.jpgMaking the bronze bearing for the small end, the connecting rod is positioned to see how good a fit it is on the bearing./media/tinymce_upload/fd851fca3e8ff87519cde2e1f21ec7f4.jpgNow you can see all the major parts the only thing missing is the piston rod this is on the engine so could not be included. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 20, 2018 Author Share Posted August 20, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/2360bfb64b49c37c17cda82555b97723.JPGIs it me or what this is Hornby's new engine and very nice it looks to might have to add this to my collection but the point I was going to make is when I was building a GWR King some years back Hornby were also building the same model engine then when I started the GER S69 Hornby also at the same time were building a B12 again the same model and was there a SR Lord Nelson? And now with my Duchess under construction Hornby to have this model under construction as above. It must be great minds think alike? if they used high temperature plastic they could produce a live steam version saving me a lot of fiddling and far---- about.ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 20, 2018 Author Share Posted August 20, 2018 The other thing that needs altering on the Hornby LMS cross head is the slide bars this is because the bracket that holds the 2 bars apart will foul the piston rod so this part will be cut in half and the remaining small tabs bent at right angles to the slide bars and a new bracket made up so that the piston rod can pass up and down with out failing this bracket.I hope this is all making sense/media/tinymce_upload/cae8b422d9fe86b4e8d413375a1730bd.jpgIn picture form might be a little clearer. The part with the yellow arrow is the part that needs cutting and a larger section added so that it clears the piston rod./media/tinymce_upload/234f451dfa3f7aca7de899b4bb8271fc.jpgHere I am making the cut that will separate the 2 slide bars what you wont see is me and the wife looking on the floor for the smaller part as I made the cut it shot into the air and vanished, but after a search I found it and so the work could carry on./media/tinymce_upload/325e0809c619f4606d8e8bef8528b369.jpgIn this picture the small tab (yellow arrow) that is left on each slide bar must now be bent at right angles to the slide bar./media/tinymce_upload/b550b4721428e05b6b3f13bbe2a6ff74.jpgUsing 2 pairs of pliers the tabs are bend and the surfaces cleaned and lightly tined with solder./media/tinymce_upload/85b9504ea50169be756ba0ad2ac078f2.jpgYou can see the 2 slide bars and the tabs bent and tined plus the small U shaped steel bracket that will be soldered to each tab and then make the slide bars a complete unit once more ready to fit to the engine as in the picture below./media/tinymce_upload/b22f19eae712cb48eb76b97212c8d751.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/20fb9b9e3a5143c2aafeaaa36b967d58.jpgThe complete cross head and valve assembly fitted on the engine and not looking to bad a steam test was carried out and all worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Amazing that you can chop these delicate mechanisms about, then solder new bits on Ken. My good lady is always being called in with the torch to find the bits I drop on the floor. My MN valve gear fell apart and I couldn’t rivet the various bits back together so it was a new one from the shop. Just reinstalling the new bits was a challenge.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 RobI did see in the video link you sent me the chap there like a friend on mine had cotton sheet fixed to the under side of his bench and around his waist therefore any bits will fall into this and retrieved later this is especially done when cutting and filing gold and silver in his case but small parts can work out just as valuable when you have to buy a complete new part if available?ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 I work next to a powerful magnet, so hopefully any escaped parts will be stuck to that. For some strange reason it doesn't work with plastic bits! :-P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishmanoz Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 Does it make your hair stand on end but slightly sideways? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 2ei must tell you this as you were talking about magnets a brain cell fired up from the past some 35 years ago we were building some Royal Navy ship radars the magnetron had a very big magnet some 2ft 6ins across and 9 ins thick they came i a very big wooden box with loads of danger labels pasted around the sides.sorry if this seems a long story but picture the seen a wooden crate some 4 ft square standing on it own in the shop floor waiting to be unpacked and the magnet fitted When along comes the cleaner Andrew with his 3 motor all metal vacuum cleaner I think he got about 12 ins from the crate when his vacuum cleaner suddenly shot sideways and stuck fast to the crate he was a strong chap but even he could not unstick the vacuum from the crate and the look on his face said it all He couldon't work out why his vacuum clean had attached itself to the wooden box.it wasn't until me and my mate went over could we free his vacuum from the wooden cate and he could then go about his business i think I still have some bronze spanners somewhere for setting these very strong magnets up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted August 23, 2018 Share Posted August 23, 2018 Staying off topic...Ken’s cryptic response about the link I sent him - Russell Lord of London (Google him or find him on Utube) is a jewel setter and he has scratchbuilt a Mk2 Escort from precious metals and jewels, hence the comment about using a jewellers sheet across his knees to catch the bits for recycling. The guy also built a working ratchet torque wrench in platinum for his models wheel nuts. Worth a watch. Bronze tools. I’ve installed aluminium screws around sensitive compass parts before. Another tool tale. In the desert in summer it gets so hot (50C+) that folk carried their hand tools around in a bucket of water. If left out in the sun they were too hot to handle. 50C for example is what your domestic boiler tap water is usually set to. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 23, 2018 Author Share Posted August 23, 2018 Hi Robyes a very clever man making the Escort and mostly from memory, this off topic spot that turns up from time to time sound like a group of old guys up the pub taking about days gone by A proper last of the summer win.Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 23, 2018 Author Share Posted August 23, 2018 As I’m working on the chassis I thought that the pony truck is another part that is also the wrong type for a correct LMS Duchess as it is an A3 design and as I would like it to resemble the Duchess engine and can not find the right pony truck on the internet I would try to disguise the A3 pony truck with a little cosmetic surgery./media/tinymce_upload/f4e51ddd43456e4588cd8f8c3faa4ef5.jpgI removed the pony truck from my Hornby Duchess which is the bottom one with the blue wheels and along side the A3 pony truck look very similar .The only real difference is the LMS one is a little longer at the front end and the frames come down at an angle and has 2 ventilated holes in each side.What I will do is file down the front of the A3 pony struck at an angle then make up a new front section of the frames with the ventilation holes and fix it to the A3 pony truck with 3 screws./media/tinymce_upload/729d362b819a2cbd642fd333bb7e998d.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/b56ab0e486bc77030dc4d075281295f0.jpgNow with 3 pony trucks the top one is the A3 with the front end filed down the middle one is an A3 with no changes and the bottom one is the LMS one from my Hornby model. When the changes have taken place it must still fit with out fouling on the chassis or steam pipe from the tender./media/tinymce_upload/1c1b17cfc5fa0258a0b0740afe44abbc.JPGThe new front section was cut from an off cut of nickel from the kit and bent into shape. The ventilation holes were drilled and file into shape and a small bracket was made up and soldered to the front end and a hole drilled for a fixing screw, 2 more fixing hole were drilled in each side of the frames to hold the side sections in place I did think of gluing them but with oil heat and water they may come away in time and a good mechanical fixing will out last any glue./media/tinymce_upload/3628d14bb62254fe531ed6ca58455309.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/0e32ad47b9689581a87450cda3d9c06d.jpgThe new section fixed in place with the 3 screws a quick fit to the engine showed it was going to be ok with only a small change to the plastic brake assembly./media/tinymce_upload/580595983299937a998b3e1d0a09d563.JPGI think the wheels will need painting by hand as the spray paint job has left the wheels a bit patchy.Now the chassis is complete as near as possible to a Duchess it might be a good idea to try the body on to the chassis and see how thing fit and line up like the safety valves the chimney. And make up some sort of fixing to hold the body in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted August 26, 2018 Author Share Posted August 26, 2018 /media/tinymce_upload/1a098335ee25820f85e2f6fdb108dec8.jpgWould you believe it just this very minute seen this on that action site and bought it a LMS Duchess pony truck which is winging its way to me as I write this thats the way things work out for me, I once had a plastic flower that died.still never mind if it does not fit correctly then i still have the one i made up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted August 26, 2018 Share Posted August 26, 2018 You probably fed your plastic flower the wrong kind of plant food, GW! 😛Magnetrons and Klystrons - not a good idea to go near those with a mechanical watch on - it won't work afterwards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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