Go_West Posted February 10, 2019 Author Share Posted February 10, 2019 Well sticking with the belt drive idea I carried on with the rest of the drive train from the cylinder down to the main driver.As at the end of the day if this was going to prove too hard to build then there was no point in carrying on./media/tinymce_upload/e7bc3fb55bfd7456ac31cc97894ab23b.jpgThe next part to have a go at was the bearing block that supported the 2 main drive shafts.This was a very nice and detailed brass loss wax casting which you can see in the picture./media/tinymce_upload/e8182f299b687b86aa9aa6115225d8a8.jpgThis small casting needed to have a hole drilled from one end of the bearing block to the other so that a small steel shaft could fit in the drilled hole in the bearing block and the front shaft can then be loctited to this small steel shaft and also the rear shaft can be loctited to the other end of the steel shaft therefore making a complete assemble.It is difficult to drill this hole in the bearing block so the easiest way I could think of was to make a saw cut in the back of the bearing block which people will not see and later cover the saw cut in solder.Once the shape of the soldering looked ok a small amount of filing was needed to get it looking like it was with all its little facets in place.Now when the drilling took place the drill would follow the saw cut as the brass will be harder to cut than the soft solder and this way it is hoped I end up with a nice drilled hole./media/tinymce_upload/dc6ac66febdbb87eecc9d788469b87dc.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/1ce68579c11dba5d69478aa1bf321ffc.JPGThese 2 pictures show sawing the slot in the back of the bearing block and the next picture is the saw cut in the casting a little over halfway./media/tinymce_upload/dd6df8ebc4be2ad828c6f99e1e3a01c4.jpgFollowing the saw cut the cut now needed to be filled with solder and the out side reshaped like the casting was before the saw cut took place so once the paint was applied it would look as if nothing of all the work could be seen./media/tinymce_upload/63a2caa2e01212d6e8ef901cf12d5e10.JPGAfter the reshaping and filing of the bearing block it was time to drill the hole this as hoped was no problem the drill did follow the least path of resistance and made a perfect hole./media/tinymce_upload/fcc00be3f991b024a5024654438e8649.jpgHere you can see the drive from the pulley shaft to the brass drive shaft to the bearing block and the steel shaft out the other side of the bearing block./media/tinymce_upload/0a100604a0c07f8eeeaf2722463c4990.jpgSo far so good just the last part of this valve system to mod./media/tinymce_upload/e99b917a9ed407e1022f6ce8931298bd.jpgI thought I would put this part up from the kit here as it shows one of the brass casting sets that have some of the different parts used in the building of this P2 locomotive.One of the parts that will need next is the gear box that takes its drive from the driving wheel.This part will need only a small change which is to drill a hole but only 2 mm deep where the second drive shaft will fit.The gear box will have a brass pin soldered into the 2mm hole and the drive shaft will have a hole to match the pin so that the drive shaft will revolve on the pin/media/tinymce_upload/5a2d726ba89823486592d5a059662c74.jpgDrilling a small hole as before with the bearing block but only 2mm deep./media/tinymce_upload/fba104d74b4b88e58c43e2950aec6df7.jpgThe pin needs to be solder into the hole in the gear box drive unit./media/tinymce_upload/19c19dd035854d959518b1343fe651e8.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/7ac2500082bd270358605f431eca7fcb.jpgNow with the second drive shaft in place you can see how the different parts are building up./media/tinymce_upload/3fb5e0fbdd36d3afd691def465f31cf7.jpg/media/tinymce_upload/1ee99cc911bf73d2030a4dc1a8a5d454.jpgWith all the parts fitted to the chassis it need some small adjustment but not looking too bad if it all turns has yet to be seen but I will find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rog RJ Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Remarkable! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzza Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 Inspirational. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I knew you would hack it Ken. Great job.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 It seems the more unlikely he is to succeed the more likely he is to succeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 Hi allthanks for the positive feed back chaps but it ant finished till that lady sings and if it's not going leak steam like mad from the front valve cover fitting or upset the rotating valve inside the cover and the oil problem on the rubber belt making it slip then what?i have noticed that this engine also had a lever link drive from number 3 driver to the 2 machanical lubricators on the running boards?Ken/media/tinymce_upload/0dae3f27d68de12ec41137e0ac62bc08.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 What's next - working brakes?Sorry, Ken, just teasing! 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 What about the reversing lever Ken. Are you going to connect that to the servo so the operating rod spins back and forth to match.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 I did think about working brakes some years back but never got around to trying out my idea as for the reverising you almost had me there as I did look at the black and white picture and give it a thought then no let's stick with getting the valve system to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/980a6a47de81d21d6fea0d6adeab45e6.jpgStill working on the valve drive system and now have one side finished and working also working on the body adding the detail to the boiler casing with pipe work and other detailsI’ll start with the body detail and show you a couple of pictures./media/tinymce_upload/89a21d080c762b908a91df6dbfa1478b.jpgThis is the left hand side not much detail here on this side just the reverse control with its small right angel gear box connecting from the cab control wheel to the cylinders valve units and one of the two snifter valves set in the boiler cladding high up on the boiler smoke box.Lower down are the sandbox covers and oil boxes plus hand rails and that’s about it for this side./media/tinymce_upload/8b62cb4cb4386151b37167e30869c3ef.jpgThe right hand side has more detail with its boiler water unit and again the second snifter valve hand rails and sand box covers and the 2 small oil boxes.Might be time to order the paint and transfers./media/tinymce_upload/53d3fc0e80124c3bc55ce33bf8399135.jpgNow it was time to test the revolving valve drive idea and after making the video and being able to zoom in on the system under power what a wobbly set up it was all the pulleys seem to be off centre. The first drive shaft is rubbing on the cross head and a small scratched line can be seen about halfway along its length this can be seen in the picture above so some re-aligning and remaking might be a good idea but at least it shows that it might just work.I have taken some video so have a look at the wobbly drive shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 this is the link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Lots of flexing and movement there, Ken. As you put, that needs sorting out, because it will lead to fatigue breaks.It proves that the idea works, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 'tis a trite wonky but the concept works beautifully, just needs a bit of your magic fettling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 Fascinating to watch Ken.Smashing universal joints. As Eric says that flexing will break the mounting bracket in time, so long term reliability is going to be a pest. Front view shows a valve box screw has worked loose allowing the cover to move. You are having to work to tiny tolerances to get the thing running smooth.I couldn’t even assemble something like that in O gauge much less make and assemble the bits in OO.Great work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 25, 2019 Author Share Posted February 25, 2019 Thanks for all the input missed the loose screw rob and as WTD and Eric have pointed out a bit more magic needed in fact a total rebuild starting with the large bracket that the drive sleeve and pulley are fixed to this seems to be moving up and down and may be making the shaft drive look worse than it is.so the plan is first to make a stronger bracket then stick with the brass sleeve but make the pulley and shaft in one piece but not in brass as this always seems to be a greasey metal and might not be giving a good drive to the belt so will make it in stainless steel.the main drive pulley can also be made in stn/steel then we will see what happens?The one thing I will say is that the hole and gland in the valve cover had no leaks of oil or air on the test run as it was this set up that might be a problem and the single pin drive off the little black rotating valve could upset the seating of the valve letting steam escape up the chimney and the engine not run but even at this early stage and on inspection of the components all looks to be ok but time will tell? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 rg Michel has made a comment that this valve drive idea could be added to electric locos ? Maybe Hornby could have a look at building a test model just to evaluate the possible out come of such detail smoke generators have been built and fitted years ago and works standard valve gear works so why not rotating valve shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 And the price per loco goes up another £50! 😛 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I think it would be just another thing that is unnecessary like working fans in diesels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96RAF Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Good idea Ken and great for a demo model in a case on a rolling road,....but folk already moan that current valve gear falls apart at the drop of a hat, so rotating shafts would drive them nuts. Imagine the forum posts about it -Question: why does my xxxx loco not work.Answer: that will be because you have fumble fingered the rotating shafts into the valve gear and rods again by picking it up using the motion as a handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 Yes of course you are all right but it wasn't my idea looking at engine shed the way things are going with up and coming models more and more detail l got my first train set in 1955 Princess Elizabeth very little detail no valve gear just a basic body shell and motion it still runs after all this time a Hornby West county made all in a metal body built like a brick out house with a 5 pole motor still running where as some of my present stuff like engines and coaches are missing bits like door handles vacuum pipes I Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walkingthedog Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 I’m all for detail but sometimes they get a bit daft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted February 26, 2019 Author Share Posted February 26, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/39fd352d7dfabc68ca520c1628d7fae3.jpgI have included a picture of the old drive assembly which shows a brass bracket with the 2 fixing holes this bracket was found to be made of too thinner material and did flex under load. /media/tinymce_upload/fb7e5731a034a8b41cfd9231df7ed1d8.jpgThe changes to the original design have been made and as said the pulley wheels and shafts are now a one piece assembly being made from stn/steel and once the brass sleeve is soldered onto the bracket the pulley and shaft will be fixed in place with a cir/clipThe new bracket is made from nickel silver which is stronger and is a little thicker so will make a much stronger job.Other wise there is little difference in the construction.An oil hole will be added to the brass sleeve once the soldering is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go_West Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 /media/tinymce_upload/b297eacd90969d1e1e01c9f56bff6e32.JPGAbove is a picture of the right hand side of the engine with the instillation of the valve drive shafts and cylinder covers and drain cocks still missing the wheels under the cab as still not sure what to do here./media/tinymce_upload/5d6fe288e8224e09e8339768cf76272c.JPGWith the body removed you can see the set up of this drive system there is every possibility that with the heat and oil it still might not work but test runs will hopefully show up any problems here./media/tinymce_upload/ce7471d69ba930f142510e8a14ac27f8.JPGI did say that I was thinking of building the oil pump drive well here it is it looks a bit heavy or out of scale so might improve on it later but it does work and is after all another feature of this engine./media/tinymce_upload/e7dacee9d55e4e70184b5a8a9daf0fec.JPGthe oil pump assembly is fixed to the chassis of the engine so stays in place when the body is removed/media/tinymce_upload/e076379d88f9642002b2210e2c12973a.jpgJust a small problem with the light indicator switch printed board under the regulator valve as the complete cylinder regulator and supper heater are now nearer the valve timing adjuster and as this part revolves it hits on the tail end of the printed board were the wires come out as in the picture here circled.This will have to be remade or changed in some way.Once this is sorted out the rest of the engines workings like supper heater and motor control printed board can be assembled and some steam test carried out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2e0dtoeric Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Amazng detail work! 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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