ARC Pro

[andrew_ball1]

Finally assemble everything I need to run ARC Pro.

Any set up tips, do's, don'ts or is it straight forward?

[woodcote]

Hi Andrew - that's very exciting! Yes, for such a complex system, ARC Pro is remarkably straight-forward out of the box.

 

In terms of the hardware set-up - read the Quick Start Guide & memorise it! And take your time following the set-up steps the first few times you use ARC Pro. Stuff like where to place the powerbase and pits, connecting cars etc. Something to add is not to place a lane changer (or pit entry) just before or after the powerbase - holding down the lane change button as you cross the sensors means a lap isn't counted. There is also one thing wrong in the Guide - the latest version of the app has a simplified calibration process and the second info screen has gone (or has been incorprated into the active calibration screen). Otherwise, it is straightforward... if you read the instructions :-)

 

For the app itself, I would start simple, get to know the basic functioning and then explore the extra features. There isn't much instruction about the app in the Quick Start Guide, but I think it is pretty intuitive to learn. I'd suggest starting this exploring without the added pressure of an impatient festive audience - spend a bit of time alone with the app and/or manage people's expectations that they are part of an exciting learning experience. You'll soon get the gist and younger racers will probably grasp how the app works rather well.

 

The big issue that people have with the app is what I call 'the rule of the three colours'. The colours on the powerbase, controller and of the driver/car in the app must all match. The default colours are red and green, so I always start with those and then add blue, yellow, orange & white in that order. Each controller should be connected to a colour on the powerbase & you also connect each car to a specific colour on the powerbase - these two processes are explained in the Quick Start Guide. Connect a car to red and you control it with the red controller - whether the app is on or off.

 

The third colour connection is to match the car ID (the colour on the powerbase the car is connected to) with the background colour of the driver tile in the race set-up menu of the app. This is the sliver of colour to the top and left of the tile. Set-up a car/driver on the red tile (default = Driver 1) and the powerbase lap sensors will search for the car connected to red on the powerbase and display data for it in the app. If you set up the car on another colour in the app, the red controller will still control the car connected to red, but no data will be recorded. It will seem as if the app isn't counting laps - however, it hasn't been set up to 'see' the car. Remember, all three colours must match.

 

To be honest, I think that is the biggest issue that isn't covered in the Quick Start Guide and isn't that easy to pick up. That's why I've over-egged it a little... Most importantly, have fun. I really enjoy ARC Pro and Scalextric should be proud of a such a feature-rich system that works so well straight out of the box. It's brilliant how you turn everything on and can be up and running in the app within a minute. Mind you, it won't be quite that quick the first time ;-)

 

Of course, if you have any issues or questions, just ask here. There will be a few of us checking in over the next few days.

 

[andrew_ball1]

Thanks a buch for the info. However I ran into trouble immediately. The quick start says to open the app and follow the instruction there in. When I open my app it goes straight to "Lets race". I went back to the QSG and I followed the controller and car set up succesfully i.e. 2 cars running on 2 different controllers however the LED is still flashing amber.

How do I rectify this?

[Dr_C]

Is it flashing amber (no bluetooth connection to tablet/smartphone) or flashing red (track power overload)... I realise you indicated amber but they can look a bit similar... and just wanted to double check?

[andrew_ball1]

Looks like amber to me but that does bring up another point. Are both power packs supposed to br plugged into the base unit?

[Dr_C]

Two PSUs plugged into the ARC PRO power base is good for up to six cars.

First question, what level of control do you have between the hand throttles and the cars? i.e. can you drive the cars?

Comng back to the Amber... are you finding you have any control between the app and the cars? For example what happens if you try to calibrate the cars... can the app control the cars during calibration? Also, does the app switch between ARC PRO mode (6 car digital) and ARC AIR mode (2 car analog) when you slide the small switch at the side of the  I ask these questions because flashing amber would normally indicate no bluetooth connection between the power base and the app. Wireless throttles would still function if correctly paired as they use a different communications protocol i.e. not bluetooth.

C

[andrew_ball1]

OK call me dummy, the device (i Pod) has to be on to get the green LED. DUH!

[Dr_C]

Sound like its now doing what it should? If so, great...!

 

Hope you, your family and your friends enjoy it :)

 

C

[andrew_ball1]

Got back to the set up today and I'm having trouble connecting the 4th car. When I press the yellow button the 2nd time the car shoots forward a couple of inches the LED goes solid but the car is not connected.

Any idea where I'm going wrong?

[woodcote]

Hi Andrew. If you have the other 3 cars working (I'm presuming red, green & blue?) then first check you have connected the fourth controller to yellow, using the instructions on pages 8 & 9 of the Quick Start Guide. I usually switch off the other controllers when I do this. Make sure the batteries are connected the correct way round and you have a red light on the controller when you turn it on. I use good quality alkaline batteries (Energizer alkaline power) and change them about every 4-6 months.

 

If you get that 'jump' when connecting the car, I am guessing you are following the instructions correctly on page 10 of the Quick Start Guide (and you have the latest version of the C8515 digital plug fitted). That's why I think it's probably the controller that is the issue. You've connected, but the car doesn't move when you pull the trigger (step 5).

 

If you still have no luck, you could try connecting a controller you know works to yellow. If that doesn't work, connect a car you know works to yellow. Those steps will help diagnose if the problem is with the controller, car/chip or powerbase. However, I expect that checking the controller batteries and re-connecting it to yellow should do the trick. Let us know how you get on!

 

[Anttreal]

Hello all. Anyone having an issue with stuttering cars as the green controller connection light flickers? Just set up sunset speedway with fresh batteries in the controllers 

[gorp]

You are running digital with the switch moved away from the track ?

Are you saying that all cars stutter on other ids when green controller is turned on or just 1 car on green ?

If only one car has problem, have you tried changing its id to see if problem is car ?

You did try re iding green controller ?

Do all cars run ok without green controller being turned on ?

Did you try re iding another controller to green to see if problem stops ?

[Andy P.]

There is a dedicateed thread for Anttreal's question... please follow up there.

[Crockett1707820709]

I'm about to upgrade from the 6 car Digi powerbase to Arc Pro and wanted to get some clarification over the limitations of track layouts.

I understand you cannot put the pit lane too near the s/f line and the the curved lane changers don't work but I thought I (mis)read something about only being able to use specific track layouts?

I change my layout every time I set up. I don't have a permanant track but have oodles of track pieces and accessories to really go to town every time I set up. Will this work fine with Arc Pro or do you have to stick to specific set layouts?

Also ... AA battery powered controllers seems really old fashioned and slightly annoying. Surely a rechargeable docking station and Lith ion powered controllers can't be too far away?! Similiar to wireless games console controllers would be better.

[Andy P.]

Not sure where you got that about specifc layouts. Probably because when you start the app it asks you which set you own. You can select any set. It does not affect how the app works at all.

You can also use any layout you want.

If you can get the ARC PRO powerbase that is in the Sunset Speedway or 24 Hour Ginetta set it will have better compatbility with the curved lane changers and with holding the lane change button down while crossing the start finish line.

The only things to consider is that a curve or any kind right before the start finish line might cause the guide blade to be skewed making the laps ot be counted.

The cars must cross the powerbase for laps to be counted so a pit lane should not circumvent the powerbase.

There are lots of threads on here about the mods and things to consider. Please use the search function.

I don't know if the "pit lane game" will work on ARC PRO if you have that.

You can use rechargable batteries if you want but they might not have enough volts or amps to power the controllers. Using removable batteries was the most cost-effective way to get wireless controllers.

[Crockett1707820709]

Thanks for that.

I'd buy the Arc Pro and 4 controllers on their own rather than a new set. I think because of the fact that it asks you what set you have, it made me think you had to use specific 'approved' track layouts for some reason. Whereas mine are cobbled together on a whim each time I set up for a day/weekend.

Thanks for the info on curves. I always try to bear that in mind when setting up.

[Andy P.]

The powerbase alone will be a Version 3 that does not have all the hardware upgrades the version 4 has (better analog compatibility and better lap counting with depressed lane changing)...

Just letting you know...

[gorp]

Andy has given you a polite warning.

 

If you plan to also run analog, buy the 24 hr digital ginetta set because it was produced after the upgrade and the digital parts are worth the price (the rest of track in my mind is free).

(Bought mine just to get that great upgraded powerbase.)

Understand the sunset was produced during the switch over and it is a crap shoot what powerbae you get.

 

But if you buy the powerbase alone, it is only when you do the riko mod at slot forum,digital,scaly,  that makes it a great digital only powerbase.

 

As for the curved lane changers, the very simple mod, that separates lanes, is also found at slotforum and will allow their use on all scaly powerbases

[gorp]

Andy has given you a polite warning about arc pro versions.

 

To me it is really about before and after .

If you plan to also run analog, buy the 24 hr digital ginetta set, because it was produced after the upgrade and the digital parts are worth the price by themselves.

(Bought mine just to get that great upgraded powerbase.)

Understand the sunset was produced during the switch over and it is a toss up what powerbase you get.

 

But if you buy the older but currently available powerbase alone, you will soon regret it, until you do the riko mod at slot forum,digital,scaly,  that makes it a great digital only powerbase .

 

As for the curved changers, when you do the simple,  lane separating mod found at slot forum, they become safe for all powerbases.

[Crockett1707820709]

Thanks both. I usually buy through Jadlam and didn't realise there'd be different hardware versions, so I'll check with them.

[Andy P.]

I know they break up sets and sell the cars (even though i think that is technically a "no no" so ask if they will break a set and sell only the powerbase...

[Anttreal]

I just bougt a sunset raceway set. How do i know which powerbase i received? If i got the old version is there a way to update it?

[Andy P.]

Updating is difficult as several components were changed.

If you look through the cooling slats of the power base from the side of the track you should be able to see 2 white blocks roughly 2 cm from the outside. Then it is a new one.

If you only see 1 in the middle it is the old one.

I think there is a thread here on how to tell based on the serial number. 

https://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=171194&page=12#entry2266523

[gorp]

Plenty of info on id-ing on slotracer.online  (there was a thread here also covering it )

Quick way is to turn base over and check manufacturing date on powerbase track, believe 2519 is last update

or if cannot find this tiny #, just take the pitlane that comes with the set and plug it in backwards ending with single lane , which will short out base at single lane when running car if early version (also found on this site and used to confirm problem back in  late 2017 - just unplug power to reset base)

There are certain rules for track building that must be followed for the original arc pro for both digital and analog  ,  but only a few for updated version when running just analog.

 

Correction to state clearly, the riko mod found at slotforum,digital,scaly is ONLY needed for original version of arc pro to make it a great digital powerbase  (yes will still run 2 way analog like a city street )  and you can avoid those analog track buillding rules by not running analog with the mod.

Did mod here and used switched in analog powerbase before getting the updated arc pro and still follow the analog track building rules to run analog.

 

 

[Crockett1707820709]

Thanks all. Making hardware adjustments is slightly beyond my capabilities at the moment! I bought the Giletta set in the end. Will set up a new track at the weekend.

I just wanted to check whether I can use the power pack that came with the C7042 base? The Giletta set only comes with one power pack, so may need an additional power source for more than 2 cars. Does anyone know for sure?