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The Bluebell Railways / Hornby The Collector


JJ73

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Arrived today (29/05/2019) is my SECR Wainwright H Class '263' (14 Months later!!!) & I was wondering - did any 1 else get 2 Name Plates with theirs...??? (See Photos)...

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That says "Hornby The Collector" (I tried my best to get it clear as poss. b/c it was sooooo tiny!!!)

 

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That 1 says "The Bluebell Railway" 

I wasn't sure where they were suppose to go on the Loco - I did do a quick internet search for photos but really couldn't see any thing sutable!!! So I went with this / these...

 

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I know you can see a bit of double sided tape & not perfect but it will do for a while (Couldn't get the back of the double sided tape!!!  ☹️ )

 

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& you lot complain about not getting the box out of the sleeve!!!  😆

JJ

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You’d be better using a tiny bit of blutack or similar, the tape will damage the paintwork  eventually. 

Probably already has.

Jimmy, the top lamp bracket is the bracket shaped piece of plastic at top dead centre of the smoke box.

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You mean the curve bit of plastic just under the chimney of the Loco??? See my my 1st photo above where it is now but I shoud put it above it not below it???

 

Here the link to review of the H Class :- 

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 Hi Jimmyjames,

Firstly I would never advise anything sticky on the surface of a model as over time the glue will attack the delicate surface finish.There is a much simpler method of fixing such nameplates and simply needs a replication of the prototype practice of sliding a loop over the Lamp Irons. These can be made easily from an old piece of dress jewel chain. Snip out a link and divide into two halves, fix one half to each nameplate and leave to set. Then when dry hook over the lamp irons as per the photos.  This method is what I've used over many years and is very quick and easy.  For more information and instruction look at my article in The Collector Issue 100 page 16.  (Maybe a kindly Moderator can provide a link to it?)

Please remove the sticky tape as soon as you can as I'm worried that your exquisite model will be ruined.

Kind regards

Paul

 

 

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@ Paul :-

Hello  😀

Thank you for your conern / worry about my H Class Loco with tape - NOW removed - so you can now stop worrying & have a restfull sleep!!!  😉 😆 😀

I knew I had some old issues of the Collector (but wasn't sure if I had issue 100 or not???!!!???) - so I went straight to my folder where my Collector Mag is kept - found issue 96, 97, 98, 99 - Did I have issue 100??? Yes I Did - Phew!!!  😆 (just saw the date on it - this is going back a bit - June / July 2014 - WOW!!!) Turned to page 16 as you said...& saw your artical. 😀 That's clver thinking of you - I like the way how you said that you raided your wife's jewellery box - has she noticed / missed it yet???

 

I hadn't noticed the tiny little hook on the back of the coal box or the little pointy up bit of plasic in front of the chimney -  but I have now!!! I like your 3rd photo with your little folks sitting on the "gaint to them" metal measuring gauge!!

 

I don't have a wife (cos I'm single) to raid a jewellery box with but I do have a key box where I keep my keys & in there I found a small chain a bit like photo 1 & 2 of page 16 of issue 100 - so I'm going with that - thank you  😀 I'll give your idea a go - when completed - I'll re do some photos so you can see how I did & if you like - you can comment on my work - thanks again

JJ

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Hello again,  glad you've removed the tape,  but not sure you'll get a strong enough grip from tape on those tiny link ends. I've always used Loctite flexible super glue. A small blob on the back of the plate gives a shallow depth of glue into which the open ends can be embedded. This gives some grip up the length of the link. Just using point contact on the ends allows the link to lean over too easily so will not last as long. However, if you are having a static display model you may well get away with it.

Good luck.

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Thanks walkingthedog It works well if you get a good bond but patience is the key. I recommend leaving the first bond for 24 hrs then, to be safe a dribble of Loctite down each side of the link and leave again. If there's too much when dry run a 1mm drill through the link. The article JJ refers to was written in 2014 and the six are still working. However, removing and replacing the plates is best done with tweezers (When the wife's not looking). Clumsy fingers are bound to break them.

Cheers 

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The pic show 263 as she appeared at the 2017 Warley MRE at the NEC. Hornby had paid for the repainting of it and cost of transport to the show. Clearly shows the placing of said headboards. This is how Hornby wanted the model to look and why it became the club loco. 

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