James Still not Working

[EmeraldFalchion]

Following up on my last topic here regarding my R852 James(https://www.hornby.com/us-en/forum/broken-james/?p=1), I have received my pony truck and successfully attached it to my model. However, I am still having issues where when on the track the tender wheels are moving fine and are operational but the wheels on James won't budge. This causes it to derail even on a 3rd radius curve. It's not secondhand and I bought it new maybe 8 years ago. Any ideas on what's causing my problem?

[Going Spare]

If the driving wheels will not move at all, either the axles are being prevented from turning in the chassis block, the wheels are binding severely on the chassis block, or the coupling rod securing screws are too tight.  If there is some movement, are the wheels quartered properly (each wheel should be offset by exactly 90 degrees against the other wheel on the same axle)?  Are the pick-ups positioned on the rims of the wheels and not catching in the spokes? Try a very small amount of oil on the axles and the coupling rod screws.  If the loco is derailing on curves, are the pony truck and the drawbar between the locc and the tender able to pivot freely?  The distance between the backs of all wheels should be 14.5mm.

[EmeraldFalchion]

@Going Spare, I'm not too familiar with taking apart model trains so I'll try to give as much information as I can. I managed to solve my derailing issue, the replacement pony truck wasn't screwed in tight enough and now seems capable of making my turns. I applied some WD40 to the wheels but this has seemed to not have worked; where once the tender-driven loco would move without the driver wheels moving, the train now refuses to move, almost if the driver wheels aren't letting the tender move. The wheels are correctly quartered and I'm a little worried to be taking it apart. I forgot to mention that the train has mainly been in storage these 8 years for what's that's worth. Let me know if any of that helps. 

[Going Spare]

First -  WD40 can attack some plastics so remove it.  

Second - Was the loco stored in a damp-proof temperature-controlled environment?  Across 8 years, congealed dirt-contaminated lubricant or even rust may be a problem  Do the axles appear to be clean where they pass through the chassis block inside & outside? If not, clean and then apply a very small amount of model oil. Then try getting the wheels to turn by hand. If that fails, carefully remove the coupling rods by undoing the six hexagonal-headed crankpin screws (noting the positioning of all six screws and the four coupling rods).  A purpose-made 2.5mm driver is recommended but fine-point pliers can do the job with greater care.  Then see if the wheels can be rotated by hand.  If not, try to see why.  Are the wheels correctly spaced at 14.5mm between their inside rims along each axle so they are not binding on the chassis block?  If still no success, it may be necessary to dismantle each wheelset. If the problem is solved, reassemble the coupling rods if necessary (without overtigthtening the screws - it is easy to shear the head off) and lightly oil all six screws.  Report back.

[Rog RJ]

IMHO you should never, ever, use WD-40 on model locos.  There are much much better cleaners and lubricants that are far less likely to cause damage to your models.

 

WD-40 is OK in the workshop and on the car but not in the model room, except perhaps on the door hinges!

[96RAF]

If the model is loco driven then the wheels will not move by hand as a worm and spur ger arrangment is non reversible.

 

If you can access the motor turn it by hand or if possible remove it from mesh and then see if the drivers move freely.

 

Tender driven locos can have their loco wheels turned by hand and they should run freely.

[JJ73]

On my 'James Loco' - it is Tender driven & the wheels on the Loco can move freely (cos there is no motor attached to the Loco wheels!!!)

[EmeraldFalchion]

As noted by several people, the wheels on James don't move freely when though they should since it's tender driven. I'll put some oil on it and give an update in the future. 

[EmeraldFalchion]

Update: After oiling the wheels I was getting a better degree of movement by hand but not completely free and still not moving when powered on the track. I unscrewed the chassis bottom to see what was up and I've noticed the copper looking wiring (the pickups?) on one side is attached to the chassis bottom while the other isn't and looks more attached to the rest of the train. The side where the wiring is still attached is having a hard time keeping the parts that touch the wheels in place. I have no clue which side is correct but I feel this may be the problem. Anyone want to offer some insight? If you need a picture for clarification just ask.

[EmeraldFalchion]

That or I over oiled when repairing earlier, I don't know. It is quite slippery right now.

[Going Spare]

If you refer back to your earlier post, you will see part of service sheet 282 in Chrissaf's reply. This shows the chassis bottom moulding and the two wired phosphor-bronze pick-ups.  You will see that the chassis bottom has four pips which locate in to corresponding holes in the pick-ups to keep them apart from each other and away from the chassis block.  If any of the pick-ups are not bearing on the wheel rims, they can be reshaped.  

[EmeraldFalchion]

Thanks for the info Going Spare. I was getting frustrated trying to fix it myself so I sent it into my local store to have someone repair it for me. I'm in the US but they said they're guys have worked with Hornby before so here's hoping they know what they're doing. 

[Loco 2020]

Hi There, 

Just joined the forum and was reading this post, as I'm trying to fix one of these for a friend.

What I can see from his one is that the metal chasis has expanded, become brittle and cracked in several places.

The spindles of the all the wheel sets are totally siezed, and looks like the upper edges of the chassis has warped and is touching the tops of the rear wheel set.

Have read a few other people that have suffered the same problem, and all sound similar issues and believe this to be a sub standard base material that was used.

Does anyone know where I can source a replacement Chassis - Has S4540 and Made in China in the moulding.

Any help would be appreciated, 

Cheers

[Yelrow]

If you can see the oil, you have over oiled it . You apply the oil.which should be something like Singer Sewing machine oil,with a sewing needle. Suggest youuse a cotton bud to dry up the surplus oil.

[96RAF]

That is classic mazak rot, due as you say to impurities in the mix.

You may find one on eBay but they do appear to be scarce. The usual spares suppliers don’t have any.

 

An alternative is to look at the later version of James - see service sheet 423 - and assess if the (tender drive) loco chassis could be adapted for use.