1/24 Spitfire IX build review

[Ratch]

At this time, I’ll leave the exhaust stubs as they are. I may return to them.

Although I had completed step 203 earlier, airbrushing the main scheme had over sprayed the undercarriage indicators, so I touched them up by hand.

I couldn't resist this

[Ratch]

The air scoop is fitted.

I have re-sprayed the top nose panel.

As my Spitfire will be sitting on it’s legs, I can omit steps 209 to 216.

[Hurricane Boy]

Ratch

Was that your Mini-me working the fine details on the Merlin?

Tim

[Ratch]

Ha ha, cheers Tim. He's a Tamiya pit crew man I painted as an RAF erk to work on my 1/24 Mosquito. The Mossie is no more, so I have some idle figures that might be used.

[Hurricane Boy]

Hi Ratch….I could not resist that one..But on the serious side..

Your work on this build is, in my opinion top notch and I really appreciate your thorough documentation and photos through the whole build. I will keep your build in mind as a reference if I ever get this kit.

Cheers,

Tim

[Ratch]

Thanks Tim. The fit of the undercarriage is very tight. I cannot emphasise enough the need to clean mating surfaces. Any paint will prevent a good fit and misplace the parts. This, of course, goes for all the build, but I re-iterate here.

[paul71]

still enjoying your build ratch' with all that detail in the engine it would be a shame to cover it up.

paul

[Ratch]

Thanks Paul, you're right, the engine will remain exposed smile

[Ratch]

The instructions indicate that the inner, small undercarriage doors should be fitted closed, but mine did not fit with the main struts getting in the way. Maybe I didn’t locate the struts fully (I could have sworn I had), but I positioned the doors open to compensate. Maybe this is OK for an aircraft undergoing inspection.

I painted and fitted the under-wing aerial and fitted the blanking plate and aerial mast to the spine of the fuselage before selecting a paint match for the Ocean Grey. My chart gives both Vallejo Model Color 70869 162 Basalt Grey FS36152 RAL7012 RLM75 and Vallejo Model Color 70868 163 Dark Seagreen RAL7015 FS36118 as matches for the Vallejo Model Air 71048 Dark Sea Grey I had used for the upper surfaces. Neither is a perfect match, but I’ve found that the colour deepens under a coat of Matt Varnish, We will see.

The lit offers two canopies. Moulding a blown canopy is beyond the current technology without producing a seam that requires polishing out, so they offer another that is less blown. This gives the modeller options. I have never polished a canopy before. I do have some nail buffers (no idea what grade) that I try to remove the seam on the blown hood.

The result certainly isn’t the greatest finish in the world. I’m sure more experienced modellers will get a better result than me, but I do have the other one to fall back on.

I free hand painted the interior framing.

[Ratch]

I assembled the components of the propeller before airbrushing the spinner and tips of the propeller blades with white primer.

I hand brushed the outside of the canopy frames.

I polished the blown canopy with toothpaste as a mild abrasive, but I think it’s still cloudy and will use the un-blown one. Can you tell them apart?

I keep dabbling with some 1/24 figures.

Though I’m not sure whether I’ll use them.

[Hurricane Boy]

Good progress for sure Ratch!

The canopy in the lower picture (on the model) looks a little hazy to me. Is it a vacuum formed piece that came in the kit? Would a coat of crystal clear help?

The figures are outstanding and will certainly bring life to the model Spit! I like them.

You know this inspiring me to get building.

Cheers,

Tim

[Ratch]

Cheers Tim. Yes the lower canopy is the kit alternative blown type that has a seam which needs polishing out. I've tried several nail buffers and toothpaste, but not got a good finish on it rage

I will try a drop of Klear on it - can't make it worse thinking_face

[Del-833179]

I'm also interested on how to remove that seam!!

 

[Ratch]

For fifteen years or so, I have avoided airbrushing Humbrol acrylics because of the disparaging reports posted on modelling sites. Having just bought some new Dropper Bottles, I thought it was about time I saw for myself. I used Humbrol Acrylic Dropper Bottle DB0024 No. 24 Trainer Yellow – Matt. I shook the bottle for the recommended 45 seconds and a few drops into the cup of my Iwata HPC+, it sprayed perfectly. Neat from the bottle. Encouraged by this I tried one of those much-maligned Gift Set pots. I picked Humbrol Acrylic 90 Matt Beige Green and repeated the process. I did have to add a few drops of plain tap water to the cup, and then it sprayed well.

The moral of this is, don’t take everything you read/hear as Gospel. Try for yourself, you may be pleasantly surprised. I can only think that those who don’t like them are die-hard enamel users who cannot cope with the different procedures required for acrylics. I bit the bullet and disposed of my collection of 300 enamel tins and went almost exclusively acrylic. I kept a few colours that were not available in acrylics, but I rarely touch them, or lacquers, as I have little need to use them. So, my advice is; approach with an open mind and find what works for you.

With the canopy, I polished again with a glass spray, and then brushed Klear on it. A slight improvement but hold it up to the light and see those nasty scratches.

Here it is in situ.

[Ratch]

I masked the yellow tips of the propellers at 4.2mm

and then airbrushed the propeller blades with Vallejo Model Air 71057 Black.

With the airbrush in use, I sprayed the propeller hub with Humbrol Acrylic Dropper Bottle DB0085 Black – Satin. This was a little thicker than the DB0024 I used yesterday and could be thinned a little.

I then brush painted the spinner back plate and hub nose with Humbrol Acrylic 166 Satin Light Aircraft Grey, and stripped the masking from propeller blades. I also brush painted the edge of the back plate with Humbrol Acrylic 90 Matt Beige Green to match the spinner. When dry I airbrushed Klear over the propeller blades and chin panel.

[Ratch]

I have applied the last of the decals to the propeller and the K decal to the chin panel. I then airbrushed my mix of Klear and Matt Varnish to the propeller and chin panel.

Not much to do now.

[Dominic Thomas]

Very impressive indeed.

Not for me though as I’m afraid ‘er-in-doors would hit the roof if I tried to make one of these on the kitchen table.

[Ratch]

Thanks Dom. It's at the nervous stage now. I could say it's finished, but I'd like to add some exhaust stains and maybe oil leaks underneath. The scary bit is that I could really mess it up.

[SD45elect2000]

Ratch , if you use chalks and weathering powders you can just wipe it off if you don’t like it.

powders are a really good way to do exhaust .

Randal

[Ratch]

In the last picture it looks like mini fitters are repairing damage to the wing root. When you zoom in there is a gap between wing and fuselage, is that meant or a gap in construction of model?

Grumpy

 

 

If you mean the panel at the front nearest the engine, I have not fixed them, they can be removed.

[Ratch]

Haha. Just proves an old adage right though. You shouldn’t show half finished work to your boss or well people like me! Being polite about it.!🤯🥴🤪

 

 

So what was your point?

I obviously missed it. This is a WIP thread so you will get half finished build pictures.

[Adrian-352009]

For fifteen years or so, I have avoided airbrushing Humbrol acrylics because of the disparaging reports posted on modelling sites. Having just bought some new Dropper Bottles, I thought it was about time I saw for myself. I used Humbrol Acrylic Dropper Bottle DB0024 No. 24 Trainer Yellow – Matt. I shook the bottle for the recommended 45 seconds and a few drops into the cup of my Iwata HPC+, it sprayed perfectly. Neat from the bottle. Encouraged by this I tried one of those much-maligned Gift Set pots. I picked Humbrol Acrylic 90 Matt Beige Green and repeated the process. I did have to add a few drops of plain tap water to the cup, and then it sprayed well.

The moral of this is, don’t take everything you read/hear as Gospel. Try for yourself, you may be pleasantly surprised. I can only think that those who don’t like them are die-hard enamel users who cannot cope with the different procedures required for acrylics. I bit the bullet and disposed of my collection of 300 enamel tins and went almost exclusively acrylic. I kept a few colours that were not available in acrylics, but I rarely touch them, or lacquers, as I have little need to use them. So, my advice is; approach with an open mind and find what works for you.

 

 

Nice to hear you say that as I've been nervous about airbrushing the dropper bottles myself. Like yourself I've read a lot of negative comments about spraying humbrol acrylics.

I saw a couple of YouTube videos last year about 2nd generation dropper bottles and noticed some online modelling shops selling colours that aren't part of the original 70 or so Humbrol originally released but nothing has yet appeared on the Humbrol site.

[Ratch]

This is the final WIP post (for clarity).

I positioned the nose panels. Note that they are not fixed as they will be removed after weathering.

They were tacked with masking tape while Humbrol Powders AV0004 Smoke was brushed on in the general airflow from the exhaust stacks.

The under surfaces received the same treatment.

All was sealed with another Matt coat.

[SD45elect2000]

I really do like the treatment of the exhaust.

Randall

[Ratch]

Thanks Randall, here are finished pictures, though I feel I should emphasise that I have not fixed many of the panels to allow them to be removed. Any perceived gaps are due to this.