Masking problems

[Andy1707819599]

Currently making Airfix Hawker Hunter 1:48 scale. Painting using Humbrol Acrylics. Got really smooth underside of fuselage using 10 coats of thinned metallic 11. When fully dried masked this to paint upper in 164. Upon removing masking tape found much of the metallic 11 has come away revealing bare plastic. Is this normal for acrylic paint or could it have happened with enamels? If I’d primed the base plastic would the acrylic have adhered better?

[leslie entwhistle]

did you "key" the paint between coats with fine wet and dry ,i find used wet and dry ( used wet with a small drop of washing up liquid ) really good for applying a key to a painted surface,then aloud to dry and wipe with a soft dust free cloth or a "tack cloth " to remove and dust particals

[leslie entwhistle]

PS just re-read your post, if you had keyed the plastic and applied primer then a light rub with fine wet and dry after every coat ( when the paint has fully cured between coats) then it should have been ok ,patience is a must here when painting

[peebeep]

Aqueous acrylic has poor adhesion on bare plastic, it’s really best to prime first.

[paul71]

I use the small humbrol acrylic pots that come with starter sets and humbrol enamel tins also used revell acrylic and enamels and vallejo model air, never primed a kit yet but i do give them a wash in warm soapy water first then rinse in warm water and let them air dry for a day.

I do let the acrylic / enamel paint dry for a day or so before masking ( but im a slow builder i can go over a week without touching it). what did you use for masking it off, i use tamiya and the model craft collection masking tape and not had a problem with these pulling the paint off

paul

[Sailorman]

Mettalics tend to lift with the masking tape. I usually give a light lacquer coat over the metallics before masking anything. It is important to use a low tack masking tape rather than ordinary "cellotape" since that is far to "sticky."