Photo Etch Glues

[Theo-370775]

Hi

I just got my first photo etch sprue for a spitfire, I am currently gluing it with ammo's ultra glue but it seems to take a long time to dry and doesn't hold the PE in place while it cures. Could anyone recommend a good glue for photoetch which isn't to expensive?

Thanks

[Ratch]

Use cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) and an accelerator.

[Sailorman]

Ratch is right. A tiny spot of superglue just enough to hold the part in place till the glue dries. Then place a drop of superglue on a flat surface - I use the tops from margerine boxes. Pick up a bit of superglue from that drop using a sharpened toothpick and apply it to the base of the PE part to ensure a good bond.

If you apply too much superglue at once it takes a long time to set.

[Richard-368268]

Hi,

I've also just got my first kit with photo etch parts, so this is a really helpful thread, great advice. I'd just like to ask if anybody has any recommendations of a particular glue to buy in the UK, does anybody have any favourites, or are some better than other, or does it not really matter? I just would like to get the right glue the first time rather than having to try a few. Thanks very much, all the best,

Richard

[Ratch]

They all seem the same to me. I have found that the larger jars go off before I've used it all, so I have small tubes of cheap stuff now. It still works and I don't waste too much.

[Richard-368268]

Thanks Ratch,

I'll go for small and cheap and cheerful. It's not like I'll need much anyway. Two models with only a few parts for each. Thanks again, all the best,

Richard :)

[Ratch]

The tube i'm currently using (on the rigging of Great Western) is Rapide Super Glue.

[Paul2051]

Can I suggest the superglues made by Delux, they do a number and I use Rocket Max. At Telford this year I bought one that works in 5 seconds, and I was advised to place the two parts together and dribble a little on the join. Yet to try. Must admit I don’t really understand accelerators.

[dogsbody]

I use a sewing needle with the eye cut almost off to pick up tiny amounts of Krazy Glue and place where I need it.

Chris

[Richard-368268]

Hi,

thanks for the advice on the type of glue, I hadn't checked back, so I'll try that when my current tube is used. I just have a couple of further questions both relating to the same topic

1. In quite a few kits I have a plastic control panel and a metal photo-etched panel to place over it, I'm assuming that the best way to stick two flat surfaces together would be to place a jot of glue on the back of a margarine tub or such, as recommended, then cover the flat surfaces (where they join) with an even covering of super glue, using a toothpick or sewing needle as suggested (thank you for that idea). Is this a sensible way of doing this? How do other people stick two large flat surfaces together? (large for 1.72 that is). My second question is,
2. What do I do when the kit has a piece of detail film that fits in between the two, ie the film is shown to be placed between the plastic backboard and the metal control surface to add extra detail? I haven't it tried yet, so I don't know if the film is self-adhesive, but I assume that my normal Airfix brush-on poly cement would melt the film. In people's experience. what is the best way to stick these three layers together? Is it superglue for each layer? Any help in these matters would be very gratefully appreciated. I realise the first question is probably a bit obvious, but I just wanted to check. The film business though, I could really use some advice with. Thank you kindly and Happy Christmas, all the best,

Richard

[Sailorman]

Re your questions:

1. When fixing parts together with superglue you need to be very careful. They tend to immediately stick together giving you no time to align the parts. What I do is stick the parts together with a tiny spot of PVA glue. This takes time to dry and allows you to move the parts around till they align perfectly. Let this glue dry and once the parts are stuck together run a bit of superglue around the edges using a sharpened toothpick. Capillary action will "suck" the glue between the parts giving you a permanent joint.
2. I would not use superglue near film. In this case go with PVA again, applied with a sharpened toothpick. You could also use superglue as described in 1 above but be very careful.

[Richard-368268]

Thank you Sailorman,

That is very helpful, I think I'll try it all with PVA. I was also wondering. In the case of these control panels, it is sometimes necessary to paint the plastic backboard to be seen through the film and the holes in the outer covering metal photo-etched control panel. Obviously, with poly-cement one needs to only stick plastic that is unpainted together. In this case, if I'm using PVA to stick the whole thing together, the plastic, then film, then metal, does it matter if I paint the plastic backboard first? I'm assuming not, but I just wanted to check, for I can't see any other way of getting the background colour behind the film to be seen through the holes in the metal outer control panel. Any advice on this matter, or any further suggestions/opinions on my previous questions would be much appreciated from anybody. Thank you very much to everybody for their help, all the best and Happy Christmas,

Richard :)