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HST Running Problem


Tim Allen

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Hi,

My Blue / Grey HST has just arrived but I am having issues getting it to run. I have just the power and dummy car on the track and when I apply power I can hear the motor spinning but it doesn't move or moves slowly. 

Any ideas or is it a return to Hornby?

Thanks.

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Two people have had the drive shaft come out, take body off and remove the 4 screws that hold the main cover in middle. Be carefull of the plastic washers under that plate. Then you can access the drive shafts. Easy to put back in.

There are pictures in the TT120 groups in Facebook, if you are in them.

Edited by Dodge1965
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I don't fancy doing that to a brand new model that has literally just arrived.

Just spoken to tech support who said for it to be replaced. A replacement will be sent once this one returned.

 

Thanks for your help.

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32 minutes ago, Tim Allen said:

I don't fancy doing that to a brand new model that has literally just arrived.

Just spoken to tech support who said for it to be replaced. A replacement will be sent once this one returned.

 

Thanks for your help.

Understandable..  and no worries.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So an update! After a delay due to easter bank holidays I finally got my replacement Blue/Yellow HST. Yay!!

Good News - This one actually moves and doesn't just sit there with the engine spinning 😁

Bad News - Its slow. I have run in 30 mins each direction and with just the power car and dummy it is crawling at 50% power. My Mallard and Flying Scotsman with 4 pullman coaches attached are not just lapping it, they are belting past it at the same power setting. 

I've emailed CS back and asked for another returns for a refund this time.

I guess I was never meant to have the Blue / Yellow HST in 1984 (too expensive for my £2 a week pocket money) and in 2024 (technical fault)! I wonder if its an ex-virgin trains HST....

Rails is only 20ish mins away so might pop to their shop and see if they have any working ones in stock.

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That's definitely not right. When I first took possession of my HST Exec I initially ran it on on DC before installing decoders. It goes like a speed demon at full power. In fact it was so fast that it left the track on my R2 curves so I had to impose a speed restriction. I hate to think how many TT120 G's it was pulling on the curves!

For information I use a little Gaugemaster combi for running in non chipped locomotives.

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On 20/03/2024 at 12:53, Dodge1965 said:

Two people have had the drive shaft come out, take body off and remove the 4 screws that hold the main cover in middle. Be carefull of the plastic washers under that plate. Then you can access the drive shafts. Easy to put back in.

There are pictures in the TT120 groups in Facebook, if you are in them.

Have you got any tips for putting the drive shaft back in?  Mine popped out and I’m really struggling.  I emailed Hornby cs about getting it sent in for repair, but it’s been nearly two weeks without reply.  I’d rather do it myself to save the hassle but I don’t want to break anything and two of those invisible washers have already wandered off.

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I’d avoid bending the shafts to get them back in, the weak point will be where the shaft transitions into the ball section. To pop one back in, will be to remove body, then the PCB and get to point where you can drop the bogies/gear towers. That’s where movement needs to be to get the shaft back in safely. I don’t have an HST but the process is similar across many locomotives and it’s less daunting than it sounds. It’s a  bit odd they are popping driveshafts. It’s a well proven system. 

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Many thanks for the advice.  I’d wondered if the bogie needed to drop out, I’ve not quite figured that part out yet.  Will have another go in the daylight.

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When shafts pop out like this it's usually due to the bogies swivelling too far or maybe the pocket/yoke on the end of the motor or worm has shifted along slightly and needs sliding back to the correct position.  
The best way to avoid straining anything is to either drop the bogie out a little or lift the motor a little - whichever is easiest to do.  Not too far, just enough to allow both ends of  the cardan shaft to slot back into place.

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