Jeff-1246278 Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 I've installed a BLOCKsignals CDU, nice bit of kit. It's working with my Gaugemaster Combi accessory take-off as this produces 16 - 18v AC no problem. I want to hide the PSU away though so I am looking for a standalone PSU that will work. I've tried a laptop PSU that supplies 20v/2A DC but this isn't sufficient for the CDU to operate correctly. Can anyone recommend the source of an AC or DC PSU (1A is fine), AC needs to be max 24v and DC needs to be max 35v I'm told. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntpntpntp Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) Do you want a cased power supply or a bare transformer? A 2 amp 20v supply should be ok (and indeed overkill in terms of current source) for powering a CDU. In what way is it not sufficient, voltage too low? You must have some very stiff points if a CDU charged to 20V won't shift them 🙂 Remember the the idea of the CDU is it draws a reasonably low current when charging and throws a high current burst through the point motor when fired. That said, I use a 24V ac supply for my CDU power. Its one of the bare transformers within my power supply box so I forget exactly where it came from - probably Kent Panel Controls in the 1980s. It's quite small, I'm pretty sure it's something like 500mA with a dual 12V tap, the taps wired in series to give 24V. Here's a bare dual 24V transformer I found on google (there are many to choose from). https://www.railroomelectronics.co.uk/Controllers-Transformers/Transformers/24V-Ac/Product-92553.aspx Or this one's more similar to the one I have https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173120212387 There are loads of 24V AC cased power supplies and "wall wart"s out there on ebay, amazon, RS, Farnell and other electrical component suppliers so shop around for the best option? https://www.poweradaptorsuk.co.uk/24-volt-adaptors-50-c.asp Edited March 20 by ntpntpntp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-1246278 Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 Thank you for your time on this, the links are much appreciated. My Points are SEEP PM-4s so have the latching function - maybe this is why they are requiring more power than usual to move. I'm not using the SEEP latching function as such (long story why I have the PM 4s!) as my Peco Points have the spring in them - maybe this is all too much - spring on the Points and spring on the SEEP. I may remove the SEEP PM 4 spring and try my PSU again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-1246278 Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 Working this through, I've ended up removing the latching spring on the SEEP PM-4s effectively turning them in to PM-1s. Easy to do, very small pliers eased them out. I'm using the BLOCKsignals CDU, my laptop 20v PSU 20v and mini toggle switches from Rapid. Bingo, Peco points firing really well, nice and positive. The only extra learning point is that you do need to precisely align the SEEP motors (as everyone keeps saying!). I used Velcro to help with this (as a "third hand" under the board this is very useful) but I have needed to add a screw and washer to each end of the SEEP base as a clamp otherwise I found the Velcro could "creep" and the base move off line as the motors snapped one way or the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brew Man Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 Glad you seem to have a working solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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